Technical TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way...

Ok, I have a related but different problem. I have an old clawfoot porcelain tub that I want to remove the rust from. This container (the tub) is non conductive. Will installing two electrodes in the tub remove the rust that is attached to the tub surface????????

 

are there certain metals that work best for the anode and the wire attached to the part?

 

Just so you all know, the molasses works. Quite well too. But takes a long time. Only downfall to the molasses I found is that you have to completly (I mean completly!!!) clean any oily residue off. But after than, the rust scale comes right off ater a three weeks in the winter in my garage.

Probably wouldve taken only a week in the summer time.

Im sure you have to get the oil off just as good for the electrolysis too though.

My windshield hinges came out looking like very pitted bare metal.

 

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All smart ass comments aside, I enquired as to the safety of aluminum in this solution as I have an aluminum intake with a rusty carb adaptor that will not come off for love nor money.
Not that I feel the need to explain myself or anything …..


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try EvapoRust. I de-rusted several cast carb bodies that way and the brass parts were unharmed. I'm pretty sure it's safe for aluminum, but check their website

 

Hot Rod,
So, I use an all stainless bucket as my anode, and hang my rusty piece of junk from a plastic pole across the top of said stainless bucket, so I don't spark up. Will this work, or have I missed something?. Saves messing round curving, cutting and hanging anodes and stuff in the bucket.
Paul

 

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Am I the only person who is scared of mixing electricity and water

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Long as you don't throw the battery charger in, you'll be OK!

Just like washing your engine compartment or driving through a puddle. 12V ain't gonna hurt ya!

 

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Hot Rod,
So, I use an all stainless bucket as my anode, and hang my rusty piece of junk from a plastic pole across the top of said stainless bucket, so I don't spark up. Will this work, or have I missed something?. Saves messing round curving, cutting and hanging anodes and stuff in the bucket.
Paul



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The only problems I could see with that, are 1)you would have to dump the bucket to clean the Anode... 2) you would have to put your cathode terminal into the electrolyte [shouldn't cause much trouble] , OR not submerge the part completely... 3) Your bucket would be electrified; if you touch the bucket AND the part at the same time, YOU are electrified!

 

Cast iron is fine fine but, my understanding is that there is a problem with hydrogen embrittlement with steel. Izzat true? Wayno

 

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Cast iron is fine fine but, my understanding is that there is a problem with hydrogen embrittlement with steel. Izzat true? Wayno

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From what I have read, hydrogen embrittlement does occur as a result of this process, BUT...the reports that address this condition go on to say that the embrittlement is only temporary and the surface of the steel returns to it's "normal" state shortly after being exposed to the air. However, caution was made to leave the part alone (no grinding or machining) for 15 minutes or so, to give the part time to normalize.

 

hydrogen embrittlement? what does that mean outside off the lab?

 

Hydrogen embrittlement is when hydrogen is partially trapped in the metal making it brittle.
Tends to occur in hardened metals only.
If your part is untempered it shouldn't be a problem.
You can release the hydrogen by baking the part at 375 dgrees farenhiet for 1 hour.
This should be done with in 24 hours and as soon as is practical after the part is removed from the bath.
As a note, baths are easiest made using sodium bicarbonate.
Stay away from detergents and cleaners unless you know what the by products can be.
Ie, if they contain chlorates the may give off chlorine.
best anodes are stainless steel.
If you think a battery charger is good, try hooking it up to your weld set, but don't try it on aluminum, it might self destruct.

 

so sodium bicarbonate... baking soda, is the best? what about a stronger base? or lighter acid?

 

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try EvapoRust. I de-rusted several cast carb bodies that way and the brass parts were unharmed. I'm pretty sure it's safe for aluminum, but check their website

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Yep, safe for aluminum. Also safe for rubber, and paint...

 

Some one shoud buy those plastic above ground swimming pools. like 10 by 10, and 4 feet deep... Could throw some big shit in there...

steve-

 

i have used naval jelly with good results on small parts and also inside motorcycle gas tanks. i'm going to have to try this though.

 

for anyone conserned about getting shocked, go to hardware store and get a steel electrical box, run a cord out to A/C and install a GFI receptacle( use it to plug in your charger) total cost less than $6.00 and that sucker will trip before you can get shocked

 

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This may sound dumb but I was on a vintage truck site that showed some guys using molasses I think it was heated. The parts they had put in homemade vat came out like they had been sandblasted. I have been trying to find the site to post here.

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Try this site. http://virtualindian.org/projrust.htm#molasses

 

I am going to try this on some A parts that i have.

I have the molasses mix (1 part Molasses to 3 parts water) and it works really good except the cleaning of the residue

The acid works, except you loose good metal along with the bad and the fumes are pretty rough. When I did a door panel on an old truck it had little bubbles come up under the paint about 6 months later and what was weird was this was the only place it happened.

 

A couple of points need clarifying.

1. Electrolisis works well as long as the anode can SEE the metal being derusted. This means that it wont do squat down inside block water passages.

2. Muratic Acid is nothing more than a 40% diluted Hydrochloric Acid. Damn dangerous to use and attacks good metal very aggressively. Needs to be neutralized in a cold water and baking soda mix.
2A. Phosphoric Acid is a lot less aggressive and is the basis of naval jelly, metal etchants and several gallon jug rust eater products.

3. Molasses mix is mainly good for blocks and heads or other stuff where time isnt an issue. No known safety issues and it is biodegradable.

4. Sodium Hydroxide/Lye/Caustic Soda is not an acid, it is an alkaline. However it is extremely corrosoive and highly reactive so it is as dangerous as concentrated Sulphuric acid. It makes a great degreaser especially with a tiny bit of dishwashing liquid added.

5. Products which contain no (man made) acids or alkalines. These have been around for decades, usually come and go and pop up under a new name. Often quite expensive. Most are citric acid based which is a natural organic product. You can esily buy citric acid and make your own deruster for a fraction of commercial products.

Ive used all the above over the past 40+ years, each has its place along with pros and cons.

When working with any acid or alkali always wear the proper safety clothing as well as having a functioning water hose real handy. The shit will eat thru skin in seconds.