Projects The " No-Sí " coupe - 31 model A

Been wanting to build a 30-31 coupe for myself for some time now. Pete (the235kid here on the HAMB) found a pretty good deal on this 31 coupe package deal which came with some front suspension parts, couple of motors, rebuilt tranny, and 31 plates ready for reissue. My whole intent is to knock this one out and have it running in no time, as most of my other personal projects always get put on hold as the shop takes up my time. NOT this time señor!

So the coupe was sitting for about 35-40 years and then the owner passed. The guy I bought it from has pictures of the owner's brother and him pulling it out of a barn somewhere in or near DFW. Although it was under a roof it has a little more surface rust than your rolled cuff patina, but it's very workable and straight. I think it was on a 32 frame at some point as all the rear subframe and floors were cut out. The firewall was cut out too some maybe it was just channelled. Anywho...the plan is to make a frame, get it a low but not slammed, no chop (we'll see), channel the body with a little rake, split bone front, buggy spring/ladder bar rear. I'm going to use what I have laying around so it can come together quickly.

 

I picked up a 30 frame with intents on using it as a starting platform but after mulling it around a bit I decided it would be easier to make one that fits the build. So I needed to lay out what I have and get everything mocked up.

Here's the shell. With everything cut out on the bottom side it will make it easy to set the ride height and channel.

 

Once I had the body sorta set at ride height we rolled the rear under and centered it up. I used some rims and tires that came off a 56 ford build as rollers and to get an idea. Still out on rim/tire combo.

 

Rear end is off a ford exploder (I know, but it's what I had). I took another rear apart for the short side axle, shortened this rear, and now have a centered pumpkin and rear that is just right in length.

These tires are about the right height...

 

Looking Gooood !!! Please keep posting.

 

I have a built 283 that was going in my 40 truck, it's new home is here.

No boss hump heads
327 crank
mild cam
punched out just a little
running a 3x2 setup

I looked for half my life time and finally found a 81-83 jeep bellhousing that allows a ford trans bolt pattern to sbc block. So in goes a ford t5.
I used a 153 tooth 10.5 clutch housing and flex plate with a ford mudstain clutch disk. A stock bronze pilot bearing will be drilled out to match the input shaft of the t5. Also the front bearing retainer on the trans had to be milled down just a tad to fit the bell housing. Other than that it all just bolts together.

 

Thanks Lawman! Gotta figure out how to rotate pics as I load them.

 

We put the engine and trans into the hole and set it where it would just barely clear the firewall. I want it as low as possible; I don't like transmissions as arm rests. Ha!

 

For the front I'm using:

36 4" drop axle (gonna measure it tomorrow as I think it may be mislabeled)
Round back spindles
53 ford f100 drums
36 split bones
Reversed eye (I think speedways) front spring.

 

So what you guys think? Here's how it sits after day one...

 

A couple things are apparent. The wheel base is already longer than a stock model a frame. Needed this room for the small block, but I don't want to go much further if possible.

The spring is TUFF and tall. So I took out two leaves. Seems smoother.

Front crossmember will need to be flat, if not reversed and arch upward. (I think Bass and others have done this)

If the above doesn't pan out, I may need to switch to a Doane Spence style front as that will lower the spring a bunch. Problem is I want to run the frame horns and not increase wheel base.

I may need to raise the motor with the spring over set up as it seems the radiator is over the center point of the fan.

Ideas?

 

Great plan and looks like you are well on your way. Might consider a mono leaf front spring. It will get you really low with a flat front crossmember. That way it won't be so hard to get your radiator where you need it.

Are you going to build a '32 type frame or Model A?

 

ahh the coupe from the facebook swap meet. You beat me to it! glad to see it will get done.

 

Model A. Going to channel the body so most of the frame won't be seen. I think I'll sweep the front rails and need to do a small step in rear.
Never ran a mono leaf up front. Do they require stiffer shocks?

 

Looking good. The clean "A" body will save a lot of time, money and sweat. You're rolling, don't stop now. Subscribed.

BOutlaw

 

Yeah pinky I didn't do any of the dealing as Pete got in contact with him. Over the phone it was "cherry" and in attempts to secure the deal I gave money upfront without seeing it. It's actually a little rough but a good deal none the less.

 

Hopes to have a de-arched rear spring and axle mounts in the brown truck when they come by in the morning.
I'll try to get the front bones cut equal and bungs welded in tomorrow.

 

If you are gonna sweep it, you won't need a mono leaf front spring. They are rated the same as the multi leaf springs, but you lose all the height of the stack. You can adjust your ride height by a couple inches just by moving shims from top to bottom. We always use a chrome gas shock from wherever has them on sale. No problems, ever.

 

No Sì Tyler, No Sì. This is going to be a fun build. The body was anything but "cherry" but it's buildable. I'm kind of thinking a Calori Roadster style front rails.

 

Thanks ooltewah. Rear spring showed up unreversed as ordered. Guess its time to run it through the press.

 

I had a guy blasting for me here at the shop for years, anytime I asked him to do something his quick reply was - No si! Si no!

 

Looking awesome! I started a Facebook Ford Model A page. So I took one of your pics over there and posted it.

Later,Bill

 

Good deal, Pm me the link and I'll follow along.

 

The rear spring showed up without the reverse eye like I had ordered. I've done the deed on a few 36-40 springs and it was simple but cringed at the thought of a T spring. So much more shape which means time consuming. After lunch Pete (the235kid), Josh, and I knocked it out. I removed one spring from the stack and put it back together. It's a speedway spring by the way, medium arch.

 

Nice job on reversing the spring. I have done the A's and later springs but never thought about doing a T. Those have quite the bends.

Neal

 

Are you needing u bolts for that rear spring? I have a few sets of original ones with the proper square shape for the "a" rear crossmember. I'll bring them tomorrow.

 

I'm a tangible, visual type of builder and anything that will help the thought process along I welcome. For me a good way of knowing that everything will jive is by making some mock wood "rails" out of 2x3 studs, since I'm going to use the same size tubing. I put a de-arched front cross member on the spring and used some corner brackets to mount the wood beams. I brought the back end of the beams up into the cab at ride height. A couple of 1 1/2" motorcycle straps preloaded the front suspension. Some of the guys in the shop joked with me a bit but it gave me a lot of info. I know I won't need to sweep the rails, I can make the rails straight back to the rear. I know where the radiator will sit and how big it will need to be. I can determine the front castor angle and set the bones. I know how big of a step I'll need in the rear of the frame. And I can mark all measurements on the wood rails. What's also cool is that I can see how much channel I'll have and make a game plan for the floors and trunk area. All this without any welding or lifting the body off a few times.

 

Thanks j'st - we need an air/hydraulic ram on our press

 

Pete, I should have bolts show up tomorrow. I just found out about a death in the family so I'll only be up there for a minute in the morning.

 

Haha yeah. My arm is pretty sore!