Hot Rods The 56 buick wagon wont start again?

Resistors get hot while resisting. Hook it up, as long as you are running points. The jumper wire from the starter should only show 12volts while cranking (check that) and should connect to coil +.
Get battery voltage up to over 12.40. It was a bit too low going in to ballast resistor.
There should not be shavings inside dist cap. Make sure the rotor fits on dist shaft properly, does not spin on shaft, and is not hitting the cap terminals. CLEAN out the cap and make sure it is not cracked. Make sure plug wires go to the proper cylinders.
Go back and read previous posts and make sure you have checked everything the others asked or suggested, like making sure you have a good condensor.

 

OK.but this is the 3 condenser I have put in it.Bruce.

 

OK what? Nobody is telling you to put in another new condenser.

 

This can't get any more simple.
12.4 volts at battery.
Same at top of resistor.
6-9 volts at bottom of resistor.
12.4 volts at R terminal with key in start/crank only.
But for this to be correct you need to have the correct corresponding coil. How about a pic of the markings on your coil.


What the hell is in all those black tape knots.

The shavings in the dizzy aren't supposed to be there. They may be from the rotor contacting the cap which points to worn bushings on the dizzy shaft.
O R
The could be from the timing plate with something grinding itself instead of moving freely.
Either one of those will ruin your driving adventure.
Either way, shavings demand removal for a good inspection and cleaning

 

Whoa 31 Vicky, I was just answering a question some said about replacing the condenser.{for the 3rd time}I am pretty sure the dist.took a dump, but I will get some pictures of the coil. Like I said I am more a paint and body guy than electric so just bear with me and will go over your picture again.Thanks for your help.Bruce.

 

31 Vicky, those black knot tape is going to the started button under the dash. When I got the wagon some one had been in the wiring aready . There were 2 yellow wires just coming out of the firewall attatched to nothing{they were 2 different sized wires too} with a pink wire too just hanging there.Bruce.

 

It looks like the voltage coming out of the ballast resistor to coil is low.

 

If the point setting is right and the dwell is off I would suspect bad bushings going along with the shavings you found.

 

I am thinking your right sunbeam.I am thinking about changing over to something electric and do away with the points all together.Bruce.

 

So Rfraze if the voltage is low , what should I be looking for? Thanks.Bruce.

 

31Vickey here is the picture of the coil I replaced.Bruce.

 

Once again, Bruce, what is voltage at battery?

 

Sorry Rfraze I will test it tomorrow.Bruce.

 

I tend to agree with 31 Vicky, the distributor is probably the culprit.

I don't think anyone has mentioned checking the grounds. Make sure you have a good ground between the engine and the frame and between the battery and the engine. I was having some electrical problems on my car and I just replaced both grounds with new cable and took a Dremel to the contact points.

Kelvin

 

Like I said in an earlier post the dragon fire HEI isn't a bad deal all self contained just put 12v to it and go.

 

Rfraze.Here the reading at the battery.Bruce.

 

Kelvin , let me double check those grounds .ThanksBruce.

 

If that is the reading while it is not running, the battery is fine. You are losing too much voltage to the switch or out of it. The reading going in to the ballast resistor was 11.95. It should be close to battery voltage.

 

Rfraze ,So try and trace all 3 wires going back to the switch?

 

Rfraze, let me check all the readings again.ThanksBruce.

 

Kelvin Ran a ground from the battery to the body, the others were ok.Bruce

 

Rfraze, now the voltage is 13.82 going in to another new ballest restor I put in, but coming out like you said it is 9.72, then at the coil it is 9.60.Could I am using the wrong kind of ballest restor? Then I found this yellow wire that was tucked under the generator wire? Could that be anyhing?Bruce.

 

Yes

 

Where does it go? Any voltage?

 

I checked it but no power coming out of it it goes way back in to the wiring harness.I tried to google some pictures where it went but couldn't find anything?Bruce.

 

Get out the razor blade and carefully cut open the tape along the wire to figure out where it goes, if for nothing more than being able to remove it.
You can use small zip ties (or bread ties) to keep wires together after removing tape.

 

Looks like acceptable voltage to coil (per 31vicki and others) and apparently the jumper wire from starter is not passing 12v to coil + all the time.
What is voltage at coil + while cranking?

 

Rfraze, I will find out.Bruce.

 

OK, Rfaze I checked the voltage at the + side of the coil while cranking her over. It was 9.6 to 9.7.Now what? Thanks Bruce.

 

I am afraid to ask, but are you starting to get this? Many mentions have been made to a jumper wire from the starter solenoid to coil + which sends battery voltage to the coil while cranking.
Pictures of the starter (in earlier threads)showed a jumper wire (can't remember the color). Find the upper end of that wire, test it for voltage (should only show voltage while cranking, but should be near battery voltage). It may be that yellow wire you found by generator. Test that one.
Once you find that jumper wire, attach it to coil+. Test again.

Refresher: coil + operates normally at a lower than battery voltage to keep from burning up points (stock). Jumper sends more voltage from solenoid to coil during cranking to make firing easier. Your system is NOT getting that extra boost, yet.