Here is something that I have been working on slowly this summer. A big brake kit for flipped spindles on a Shoebox Ford. I wanted to get disc brakes on my '49 and was not finding what I wanted. I have changed pretty much all of the front suspension already over the years (flipped spindles, dropped steering arms, custom springs from Eaton, KYB shocks, Volvo steering box, Camaro idler arm, dropped drag link, bumpsteer kit, and sway bar.) The brake kits that I have seen say that they will not work with dropped or flipped spindles. To get what I wanted I was going to have to make it myself. I run the relatively hard to find 16" rims for 1949-51 hubcaps. This part is key for this conversion. This will only work (and it barely clears) with a 16" or larger rim. (Sorry fans of the 15" stock rims.) First off I decided that I wanted to reuse the stock hubs. They had fresh bearings and races and would maintain the stock wheel mounting surface distance. This was one less variable that I had to deal with. The stock wheels studs were removed and the drum was removed from the hub. (Note: This was more work than originally anticipated and I had to use the hydraulic press to get the studs to budge and the drum off.) New studs were installed and I used the TIG to tack them on the back side. (I also used a punch and "distorted" the hole so that the new studs were tighter, not totally satisfied though so they were tacked as mentioned.) I used some 12" (11.89" actual measurement) x 1.10" thick from a Dodge Nitro/ Cherokee (Duralast 43159). This allowed the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern to be retained as well. The hub register is also slightly larger than the '49 hub OD. This worked to my advantage as I planned on making the rotor mount be hub centric instead of locating off the wheel studs. I found some DOM tubing that was close and turned it on the lathe so that I got a nice fit over the hub and into the rotor. Once finished I tacked it to the hub in 3 places. The calipers are the big 3" piston GM pickup that have the 7/16" banjo bolt. I went with this to get more pad area on the big rotor and that piston has more travel. (It is actual for a 1.25" rotor) (Centric semi loaded 141.602045/141.602046) I started mocking up different caliper mounting ideas and eventually settled on this design. I was originally trying to do everything out of one bracket, but discovered that would be way more work than it was worth. A sample was made out of some 1/4 and 3/8 poplar wood with the scroll saw. This allowed me to get some pretty realistic measurements and be able to mock things up more. Once I liked where things were going, a pair of each bracket was flame cut. I tacked the brackets together so that I could drill both sets at once to assure that they were the same side to side. I made up a few threaded and shouldered spacers to be used for the caliper mount and bracket to bracket attachment. (I was fortunate that the spacing worked out so that both were the same height) The holes were drilled and the spacers were pressed in and TIG welded on both sides. I sanded the welds flush where the caliper mounts. The spindle and Dust shield did require minor modification. I did have to nip the ear off the corner, essentially loosing one of the bolt holes. This was required in order to keep the depth/strength in the caliper bracket. There is a notch in the bracket due the casting of the caliper. This notch is very close to where the corner of the spindle is/was. I wanted to leave the spindle alone, but my friend (Engineer) advised me to make the modification. You can't tell when the bracket is on, and that one bolt was not going to really help that much anyway, so off it went. I cut the dust shield with a set of snips and used a cut off wheel on the spindle. The caliper was mounted and I used an adapter fitting on the stock frame bracket. It was a 3/8"-24 internal flair female to a -3AN male. This went right in the tab and the stock clip was used to secure it. Then a 13" braided -3 brake line. I used the 7/16" Banjo bolt and copper crush washers that came with the calipers. The Banjo itself has a -3AN male fitting to hook the line to. I did have to grind a bit of the "shoulder" from the caliper so that the hex on the brake line would clear. If I would have left it where it was designed to be the hose would kink pretty badly and at full bump and full lock it would have hit the frame. Not very like with a tire on, since it rubs the sway bar before full lock, but I wanted the piece of mind. It was only a few minutes with a grinder and file. I have yet to do the line on the Driver's side where the crossover line connects, but will update with a picture when I get to that point. An 1/8" thick wheel spacer will be required to guarantee wheel clearance. I have tried 3 different rims on the front and 2 cleared and one rubbed. With the 1/8" spacer all 3 spun freely. I am going to use a 1/4" space for the bleeding and getting the pads bedded in just to be sure. Then I will knock the wheels off and double check everything and switch to the 1/8". Not necessary probably, but I have the spacers so why not. Once the pads get a few miles on them and the slides on the calipers are broken in that one wheel may clear just fine and no spacer would be required. Individual results may vary. I am also converting the master cylinder as well. Shoebox master cylinder conversions have been covered in great detail so I won't get too into it here. I will post pictures of what I came up with once all of the lines are bent and plumbed. I'm using a Wilwood tandem, high volume type under the floor with the stock pedal assembly. I have made a heavy duty, adjustable pushrod. There will be a 2lb residual pressure valve (RPV) front and a 10lb RPV rear. Also a Wilwood rear brake proportioning valve and a stop light switch. I have included several photos that will help fill in some of the details. I will try to add more as I finish up. Disc brakes were one of the things that I put off doing because what I wanted was not available. The car has driven just fine for the last 10 + years with the drums and single reservoir master cylinder, but I really think that this will be a great addition to the car. The increased stopping power is almost a must in today's traffic (especially the way I tend to drive). Hopefully this is some help to the Shoebox crowd and may help others decide to jump in and build their own kit.