used oxy acetylene torch paraffin wax hammer stud remover I broke 2 studs in this flathead before I learned this technique. I started on the top row by the valves which is normally the most difficult to remove. heat the stud red hot and tap it with a hammer till the bottom mushrooms out paraffin wax, seems to be thinner than water when hot. it wicks into the smallest cracks. on the end of the wench I used a 4' pipe as a fulcrum, to get slow steady pressure on the stud. paraffin wicked all the way down
I just heat mine with the torch same as this. Let them cool and pull them out. Worked on a bunch of Plymouths and one Dodge. Don't do Fords here much.
I recently discovered that I couldn't find my original Ford stud puller, a collet type, and went hunting for a stand in to use til the millenium comes and I clean up my basement. Found a killer one at Snap On, bought it, have a killer stuck stud I've been saving to try it on. Go to Snap On and look up CG500 or http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1247&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Set price is about 120, a lot but worth it since every flathead has 48 to take out and 48 to put in...you can get just the size stuff needed for head studs only for about $80 if you go fishing in the parts listings. The collet screws onto the top threads, meaning that you can yank a stud with head on, just as with the Ford one, and of course its action is concentric with stud to make breakage less likely. Users report that it can be used with air wrench for that sudden violence. Once it is screwed on, tightening the collet to the considerable torque recommended, I think about 150 pounds, gives the thing a death grip without harming the threads. Gonna try it tonight or tomorrow.
The paraffin is a nice touch. I usually just get that stud orange hot, then I cool it with a shot of penetrating oil (paraffin would be great) When I get to them when they are cool, they all work out just fine. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the tech post. I've had good luck using the wheel-type as shown, also heating them and here it what worked for me. I actually tightening the stud ever so slightly. Sometimes you'll hear a cracking noise THEN back it off like normal. Never had a problem. It also helps to soak the block being subject to this torture test to a good dosing of pentrating oil days, weeks, or even years before the actually date of surgery.
Still don't know...everything is chaos from my wife's final decline, whiuch was very lengthy, and death. It is the correct style similar to the Ford one, a collett. The tool from Snap On takes multiple sizes of course, Ford one is Ford only. Inside of collett is threaded--you screw it on and tighten, Snap on says upt to 200 ft lbs on the collett tightening! This should give an absolute death grip, and it is of course perfectly concentric and so less likely to break parts. The tool is magnificent but untried.
When I worked at the Airline I would ocasionaly make a puller that was just a long nut of the correct thread size. Take a piece of hex stock and drill and tap it to Ford thread (7/16-20 I guess) screw it on the stud. Take a 7/16-20 bolt and thread it in the other end to hit the top of the stud and tighten it really tight. Maybe have a lock nut on the bolt to tighten against the hex stock, maybe not. Your choice. Then turn the hex and hope the stud comes out. Got a lot of studs out of airplanes that way. Still like the torch better but the head must be off. And those guys got all touchy about a torch in the hanger.
After the 5th engine block and welding nuts onto the studs a got really pissed one night and I just grabbed a regular old PIPE WRENCH with a good set of sharp jaws. The wrench lets you view your work so you can keep an eye on the stud to see if it's twisting off or backing out. Needless to say I've discovered yet another use for a Plumbing Tool !!! >>>>.
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