Some say Hot Rods dont have rumble seats. That may be the case, but what fun are these old cars with out family and friends. My brother Mark made a suggestion early on. He said why dont you hide some jump seats in the bed for the kids Im just not sure if he meant my wife and our 2 kids or my dad and the three of us kids. Anyway, this was when I first hauled the cab home and was just in the planning stages of the build. His idea was to find a floorpan out of a small car like a Falcon or maybe an import that had fold down rear seats. I started searching the wrecking yards and couldnt find anything that would fit the space. Then my brother Paul came across a couple of 32 floorpans, one out of a 3W and the other from a Vicky. I was able to borrow the 3W pan for a test fit. It was close to what I wanted, but to fit everything under the floor I would still need to heavily modify the 32 pan. I couldnt make myself spend the money on something I was going to cut up so much, so I started to make the whole deal from scratch. The plan was to copy the proportions of the 3W pan, just tweak the dimensions to make everything fit. I then made some lucky swapmeet finds, a rear seat pan that had been cut out of a 32 Fordor and the lower rear floor out of what I think is Model A Vicky. I then rounded up a 26-27 T roadster seat riser thanks to Mild Mitch. With these pieces, I had enough old Ford parts to blend together and end up with something that looked like Henry had made. Heres the 32 Fordor Seatpan and Model A Vicky Floorpan in as found condition. And the Model T Roadster Seat Riser as Mitch sent it to me. Here are the pieces clamped in place for an initial mockup. The square tube clamped across the frame is where the front panel of the bed will sit, so the footwells continue up under the back of the cab. Now that there was a plan in place for the rumble seat I had to build the rest of the truck around it. The rear suspension had to be set up so nothing would interfere with the floorpan shocks, exhaust, gas tank, battery, radius rods, etc. 36 rear radius rods were Z-d to keep them low. The torque arm was mounted low on the banjo as well. Lever shocks were mounted out board the frame. E-brake cables were run in conduit in order to keep them down low and out of the way. A small gell-cell racecar battery was tucked under the floorboard. Exhaust was kept minimal using a pair of 36 driveshaft lakes pipes ending under the back of the cab. With the floorpan extending up under the cab, that lead to making a toe-kick area in the lower section of the cab, behind the seat. The lower section of the cab was cut out. Then a piece of square tube was formed to continue the lower body line up and around the opening. A pocket was formed and welded inside, as well as steel bracing to replace the factory wood. I had some much needed help along the way... To ease the space constraints a little, the floor in the bed was raised 2. A slice was taken out of the middle of the front panel to keep it stock appearing as well. Once the foundation was all in place, it was time to start on the actual seat part of the project. I decided to form new, deeper bottoms for the seat pans. Even with the floor raised 2 inches, I needed the additional depth to allow for the seat back to fold down below the level of the floor. Then it was time to start fitting the pieces together in place. The Model a floor piece once split down the middle became just the right width. I just needed to form a driveshaft tunnel to tie them together. I formed the tunnel around one of the pipe columns in my shop. It ended up needing a little extra room on the right side for the torque arm so I made a little kick out using a home-made bull-nose die in the leaf brake. The Model T seat riser got sliced and diced. I wanted to keep as much of its character as possible, so after it was cut down to size, I re-formed the raised panels, which ended up much like the originals, just much smaller. With the seat riser cut down I had almost all of the puzzle pieces in place..and with some cardboard for lower cushions it actually was starting to look like I had envisioned. I de-rusted all of the pieces so I could start welding them together. The driveshaft tunnel was flanged and got plug welded into the floor pans. Then I needed to come up with some way to hinge the backrest. I made up some hinges from square stock and tack welded some brackets to the center bed cross-member.