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stuck valve can you fix with out tear down

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mule Farmer, Sep 22, 2005.

  1. Mule Farmer
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    Mule Farmer Member

    have a stuck valve can it be fixed without tearing the head off. the motor had been sitting a wile.

    bret
  2. AV8Paul
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    AV8Paul Member Emeritus

    I've had good luck adding Marvel Mystery oil to the oil ( 1 Qt) and and 6 oz to the gas. Cleared up in a couple of days.
  3. Bruce Lancaster
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    Bruce Lancaster
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    Flathead-overhead-whatever controls specifics, but if you can force the thing closed without bending or breaking anything and keep cycling it a few times with lots of oil, you can most likely get it functioning again. Use Marvl Mystery oil in oil and in gas for a while once it runs--magic unsticker stuff.

    Be aware that valves are much easier to bend than you think...
  4. Mule Farmer
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    Mule Farmer Member

    No I meen that its stuck stuck not sticking once and a while. Your idea seams like a good idea for a running motor that the valve that sticks once and a while but mine is stuck from sitting for a long time like maybe there is some rust on the valve and its stuck in the guide.

    Thanks Bret
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  5. chuckspeed
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    chuckspeed Member

    On a flattie, i've had luck with penetrating oil. If it's only a cylinder or two, you can get the motor runnin (REALLY rough, mind you) and the combination of heat and vibration will do the work of unstickin' for ya.

    I did that with a '41 Merc for Pop a few years back. After sorting out all the other misc issues with the motor, I got it to run on 5 cylinders. A few minutes later - it was six. After ten minutes or so - the beastie was purrin' on all 8. Motor had been sittin' a good 15 years.

    The smoke from the process - un-frickin'-believeable. Mom took a pic of Pop and I shortly after we got it lit; you can see us...just barely. I oughta scan it in.

    If it's an OHV - you gotta cycle the valve by hand. Interference issues. I try to loosen it up with penetrating oil and tapping on the valve stem with a small ball peen hammer until the valve pops closed.
  6. 286merc
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    286merc Member

    If you get it running then slowly pour ATF down the carb while keeping the rpm up around 1000. Stand upwind. Use up to a full quart if necessary but let a little bit at a time blow itself out before adding more.

    ATF both blows carbon off valves and stems as well as lubricate. I use it on everything from long stored muscle engines to lawn tractors. Did a 1962 Ford tractor last month that has sat in a field for 25 years; purrs like new now.
  7. sobastrace
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    sobastrace Member

    I've never heard of using ATF. How slowly do you pour it. Just a string width stream or a bit more agressively?


    -Spencer
  8. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    do not do this it may fuck it up worse than it is,
    (but it has worked for me more than once)
    pull the rocker, or assembley, or head if it's a flatty
    squirt your favorite penetrating oil on it,
    getting the stem and guide good and wet
    and smack it square on the valve
    (head on the flat motor or end of stem on the overhead)
    with a hammer,
    don't beat it up, just shock it lose.
    roll the motor over by hand untill the action looks good.
    then crank it over with the starter till all the valves open and close like they're supposed to
  9. tommy
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    tommy Member

    On a flatty, I used ATF in a spray bottle using the stream setting. You can give the stem a direct shot. Light pressue with a screwdriver and turn it over again. It took 3 or 4 attempts but it freed up after sleeping for 25 years.

    For collapsed lifters on an old Pontiac, Rislone added to the oil. It took about 3 exits on the beltway before it cleared up. The Poncho only sat for 2 years.
  10. Squablow
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    Squablow Member

    I'm thinkin' Bret's motor that he's asking about is the '54 Desoto 276 CI Hemi engine I sold him a few weeks ago. Not sure, though. I don't think he's got a flathead, but I could be wrong.
  11. HighSpeed LowDrag
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    HighSpeed LowDrag Member

    I have done just what 60's said. Its kind of a last resort before you have to tear it apart anyway. I've done it twice on different motors and not had a problem but there is some risk involved.
  12. Ayers Garage
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    Ayers Garage Member

    60's, that was taught to me in Airframe and Powerplant school years ago. It's standard procedure on airplane engines with sticky valve. We didn't even remove the valve train sometimes.
  13. Mule Farmer
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    Mule Farmer Member

    Yep Squawblow right it a desoto hemi. I have been working on it some more tonite all I managed to do is screw it up more now I have the spring bottomed out. I have hosed it down with wd40. I guess I will give it few week and keep it wet with wd and see what happens. I was banging on it sort of lightly so hopefuly it will come free. If not I guess I will have to pull the head.


    Thanks
    bret
  14. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    I told you not to
  15. Mule Farmer
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    Mule Farmer Member

    Your off the hook I didnt see your post untell after I screwed it up.

    Bret

  16. Paul
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    Paul Editor

    hahaha

    prolly a good time to pull the heads anyway,
    take a look around

    might as well replace the timing chain and oil pump too

    hmm?
  17. oldcarfart
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    oldcarfart Member

    if OHV engine you can remover valve (rocker arm) cover, remove rocker arm, soak with kroil and tap with hammer using a piece of 2x4 between hammer and valve, go slow, be gentle <grin>



  18. Mule Farmer
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    Mule Farmer Member

    what is kroil is it some typ of penetrating oil. would it work better than the wd40 i have been useing.

    thanks bret

  19. Bruce Lancaster
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    Bruce Lancaster
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    "No I meen that its stuck stuck not sticking once and a while. Your idea seams like a good idea for a running motor that the valve that sticks once and a while but mine is stuck from sitting for a long time like maybe there is some rust on the valve and its stuck in the guide."


    That's what I was talking about--you gotta PUSH the thing shut (if it's moveable--sometimes engine just has to come apart), let the cam open it again, repeat, with lots of oil until valvespring can keep it down, then run with lots of MMO in tank and sump.
    This isn't necessarily possible--if valve is truly rusted solid, go get the wrenches. On a hemi, I have no idea if you can find a way to push on valve head, but of course you can easily push in direction of more open, and with a little clever could figure out a way to pull up on it without too much violence. If it can be moved, it can be freed...
  20. Big Pete
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    Port Jervis NY

    Big Pete Member

    Run the engine, rev it up, squirt a water pistol down the carb....

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