been SWAMPED at werk, gotten a few things done God how I wish I could get 2 weeks of no werk to really just kick ass on this thing Got some more sheet metal werk done on the cowl made a new rear sub frame x-member, had some 11 ga bent into a "C" channel, then traced the profile on the old one, radius pie cut the "C" channel to match the old x-member, and bingo, werkz great!! So, 4 hours of labor later, and trading a favor to the sheet metal shop I find out I could have purchased this same part for $70:laughing1: O-well layed up the sub frame, squared and centered everything on the table to start welding her up. Got the perimeter frame back from Car Co., it looks great!! A few things I couldn't figure for are going to need changed, but nothing major. computer can only get you close when your mentally challenged like I am :biggrin: anyway, here's some pics
Got a little bit done on the drivers side quarter panel. tacked everything up, and did a small amount of hammer and dollie werk. since I have so little to start with in regards to a car, I have to basically get every little project half done, until I can bring the bulk of the parts together. FUN!!! I should add the lower panels are from Howells, they fit nice, and great for the price!! the door jamb is a simple panel I made
I have had ZERO spare time these past few months... which SUCKS!!! A small update I finally got some good info on measurements for the sub frame so I could put the bottom of the car together. Once I triple checked all my measurements for accuracy, and square I started on my mounting system for the body to the frame. After the 5" channel in the front, factory mount on the rear the rake of the body should look good. I had a client of mine who does first quality steel cabinet, counter top, etc werk bend me up some 14 ga as a "C" channel with the rake cut out of one leg to match the body rake. Then I cut out another strip of 14 ga to match the shape of the sub rails to box the under side of the body, and give it a nice clean look underneath. first pic is top view of the sub frame mount sitting on the frame, almost don't see it second is a bottom view showing the gap that was filled third is a view from the opposite side showing how I need to do a little more werk to finish making this strong, then look good
I love this tube bending software, Bend tech has saved me countless hours of grief, and $$$ in not making scrap parts. http://www.2020softwaresolutions.com/ I wanted to put a wire run tube in the drivers side sub rail to keep the wiring out of the passenger compartment as much as possible. after 5 minutes with a tape measure, 10 minutes on Bend tech, and 20 min to cut, lay out, and bend I have a wonderful part to do just that with design the part, computer spits out a sheet that tells me where to bend the tube, and when to rotate it, how much rotation etc. end result is the software makes me look like I have skills, even tho I really don't. Which is good for me as I will need all the help I can get for the inner structure, suspension components and roll cage when the time comes. Once the part was cut, bent and verified I located it in the frame to get measurements for trimming of the tube, and hole location. then of course cut the tube and holes for final fit, and welding. as you can tell I got side tracked and still have to do final fit, and welding. to this point it appears it will turn out very nicely however.
I got a little more done today, funny how long it takes to do a "simple task" So far in boxing the sub rails, and running my wire chase I have around 10 hours in both sides, and another 2-3 to go befor it's complete. Once complete I can FINALLY get the body back on and start with all the sheet metal that's actually seen drivers side underneath boxing plate. As you can tell I goofed a little with my wire run, and had to form a channel in the plate preliminary finishing for wire run. I still need to do some finish sanding Passenger side boxed, tacked and ready for final welding and sanding Drivers side sub rail with wire run in it
A little werk here and there, got the passenger side cowl tacked in, and started on the inner tube structure for the cowl. this way I'll be able to mount all the essentials rigidly (steering, brakes, electrical, etc) not to mention help the body keep its shape
Josh, Wow, this is REALLY looking good man! I somehow missed this thread. I see that you have all new subrails, & disassembled the body panels. Lots of extra work, but you will end up with a sedan that will live another 75 years. Nice to be able to get to all the hidden rust in the seams where the body is assembled too. I see that you replaced the cowl side panels completely. Did you use the Brookville roadster panels? My (maybe now my brothers) may need the same thing. I also have new subrails, & disassembled my tudor for the same reasons. I am subscribed, I look forward to your progress Dan
Thanks Dan I bought the cowl panels from Mac's, they had the best price. the only ones I found were for a roadster which the top is slightly different, everything else seems to be the same. I had to cut the top off just below the beauty line (highlighted in red), other than that they fit perfectly. Macs part number A41000277
Got a few hours in befor werk today, a small update I made some tabs to mount the double hoops, then I added some 1"x1" tube for cross bracing on the legs for added strength, and the ability to mount things potentially in the future.... one never knows
now that everything is together on the cowl I can move on to the doors. First order of business is the lower inner corners. After trying to make this piece by hand with 10 different small pieces of metal, a few hammers, and 10 lbs of filler wire I decided to try and make a punch and die to press form the parts. I traced out the shape on paper, then cad, and cnc plasma cut out the rough shapes. welded everything together, did some finish sanding, hillbilly sighted the punch and die locations, and pressed out a few test parts. I found that I need only have minimal waste material as the excess causes problems. I also found that I need to mill these parts out to 2-3 times the material thickness, and radius all the edges so the part doesn't get shear cut. I have to wait for a friend to have time so I can use his mill to finish the die set. However the test parts came out very well I think, especially considering I have never done anything like this befor. I also made the die set reversible so making a right and left will be easy
Nice work. The structure under the cowl will be great when you do your steering and brakes. I know it made doing mine easier.
Thanks Mat, I love your truck btw, definitely given me a few ideas for my 34. I agree with you on the inner structure, I only want to build this thing one time, I'd rather over build it a little now, then to find out I didn't build it enough later
The Jalopy Journal
