Mags make there own juice...... you just grond them to quit running AND NEVER FUSE YOUR INGNITION SWITCH! While we are discussin' these things
With my mag setup. Again like what jpbill is saying, I have the mag grounded, start cranking, then flip the kill switch to "unkill" (if that's a word) or ungrounded. I was told that it keeps you from firing it backwards or something crazy like that.
I’m officially a banger owner! I picked up my ‘28 Chevy engine today. It’s all complete less the carburetor (I bought it from a really nice Model A guy named Jerry, who had purchased it solely for the Model A carburetor). We had to take the head off to get it in the trunk of my Falcon, so I got to eyeball the cylinders - and they look good at a glance. Sadly, I am sure I won’t be working with her for many years, but at least she’s around so I can start to gather information and ideas. On that note, I have an acquaintance with a ‘46 Chevy COE. I understand those used an updraft carburetor. Is it worth trying to talk him out of it for use on my ‘28? I would like to run an updraft, and I’m not in the habit of running across cheap Winfields. -Dave
anyone know the casting # for 28 chevy head? on another note i picked up some 32 chassis parts the other day including B motor and trans, early rearend, brake parts, wheels, etc. motor had clean oil in the top end so just maybe it was stored that way. been in the barn for many years
You know, I'm sorry I just sometimes think some things are obvious. Yes, that is where you connect the wire to stop the engine, you use what is commonly called a kill switch. If you use a toggle switch the ON position shuts the engine off. Now, think for a minute, what I mean is when the toggle switch is in the OFF position the should engine run. If it doesn't you are up shit creek with out a boat or a paddle. To check it just grab a sparkplug wire, Just kidding, have your buddy or your wife grab the wire better yet maybe your mother in law. If it works their eyes will light up and the hair on their arms will stick straight up. You MUST use a keyed switch that is FOR a magneto. The good ones have a post for the starter. You connect the wire through the switch to ground or earth depending where you are located on the globe or earth! Don't know why you guys put up with this. Just remember the important parts. 66 hill climb the 19 th.
Actually, it is so you don't break the starter drive, It ain't crazy its just the way it is. I have posted what big guys call the switch positions. Call them the same as I do and people won't laugh at you and tell you to get back on the sidewalk!
Well, it may not seem like it at times but I do try to help. Just like I'm going to help on this quest for information on making tubular connecting rods. If you have or can borrow a copy of dan Iandola's book titled the George Riley Racing Scrapbook. Look page 122, there is a drawing for a tubular rod. It is for machining a billet connecting rod from 3 1/4 or 3 3/8's bar stock. It is going to generate a God awful lot of chips. And, with apologies to any PC people out there it is for an early ford 4 cylinder engine. I think a Model "B" to be exact. I'm sure the dimensions could be changed and made to fit anything. Probably an old Chrysler product even, if one desired to do so.
I saw some lovely Robert Roof tubular connecting rods for a old non MoPar Dodge Bros. engine. Wish I carried around a camera. Oh yeah. When they dropped the four they became part of Chrysler. When they were making the four it was Dodge Bros. against the world
Well, I just guess I should just quit trying to be "snarky" or a "smartass" with some on this Forum. Should show more respect for those who take on the world. And do it with speed and style.
Same experience here- we had one flathead and two F head Jeeps- all stock. The flathead would win every time. Your tax dollars at work-in 1954 Herb Kephart
Heres my little banger, I'm takeing to the rod run to try to sell. I've been driveing it around. Its been a blast to drive but we can't keep them all....
Re tubular rods One of the back issues of Secrets of Speed mag- Vol 9, number 3 (Jan. 2000), has a drawing done by Goosen of a tubular rod for a Ford A, done 9-3-31 during the era when Miller was spelling his name backwards. Wonder if they ever made any----- Herb Kephart
Bluto- Sorry, someone was describing rods on different types of engines. They described how the tube on one rod blended into the big end. I thought it was you. Could you describe how you would make an "H" rod. How would you handle the wide bearing surface on the crank pin end. The bolts? Thanks - Norm
Norm- That was me, and I think that it is in the four cylinder Chevy thread about 5-6 months ago Herb Kephart
I realized a couple of weeks ago that I will not be able to make the Hill climb this year. Man that sucks !!!!!! But I will be in Denver enjoying one of my other hobbies...beer drinking !!!!! G.A.B.F. Here I come!!!!!!!! (Great American Beer Festival ) .
This is who make con rods for us. http://www.cunninghamrods.com/products.html I give them specs I need center to center, big and small end size, width top and bottom. And any special areas of clearance. Generally the size in plan view at the top is dictated by wrist pin size. At the bottom by the rod bearing size. Since I basically provide the production data for not only the rods but pistons also. This means that the rod bearings, piston rings, and even the wrist pin can be from something common ...... cheap and easy to get when replacements are needed In this way the expense of the custom made rods are somewhat offset by the price of common/cheap I've not used Carillo rods since the company was sold and I, as a long time customer, was treated in a rude manner
I have the carb pulled off of my stocker along with the cracked manifold. I am debating on either going with an old header I have (neat old piece) but it needs a new flange as the old one has waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too big'a holes in it. And WILL leak. Or... one of the new manifolds that Sacto Ford sells. Any opinions? Anyone know where I can get a header flange? I can make one frrly easily... but if I can buy it for an hours wage, I will. Any help is much appreciated! Sam
Nearly everybody around here is trying to adapt Jeep(T5) trans to Model A/B, why would you adapt Jeep motor to A trans? .
What about just making some "anti-reversion" cones and welding them in there to reduce the size of the hole......... then just face the flange off with the grinder.....it'll be fine, the gasket will take up the rest.
Rich, a friend from DC area sold a set of Roof tubular DB rods to a guy in Calif years ago. He doesn't think it was to Bob, may be the same set?
Dave, Congrats again on the C4! There are a number of carbs you can use, an you can always flip the intake to run downdraft. John gerber ran a pair of sidedraft carbs bolted right to the head for a while with good results (I think they were Zenith or Stromberg), but I haven't found a pair yet. best of luck, Bill
Reds Headers or Antique auto in Rosemead Ca are 2 that have had header plates in the past. I have made my own out of 3/8" cold rolled. Specs are out there if you look for them S O S S had a Miller or Cragar drawing with the specs.
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