There is a place to attach a mount to the bottom of the trans at the rear flange. Make a U shapes bracket that mounts to the cross member. .
One other thing, if you have the original ignition switch you will have to remove the armored cable to get into the distributor to attach a wire to it. The whole purpose of the armored cable was to prevent the ignition wire from shorting out and or people using the hot wire method of bypassing the switch. If you have an original switch it would be best to try some Wd40 or other penetrating oil to see if you can loosen the key. The center portion should pop out. It might be worth your while to mess with it a bit. A very common thing was to just push the switch in to shut off the engine and just leave the key in place. If some one has already cut the armored cable just forget all of the BS I have posted
ok quick mag hook up question(i have never installed one before)i have a wico mag with the adjustable collor for retarding the timing. i do not have a degree marking on the origional crank pulley, do i just set it at top dead on number one and kind of play with it to get it in the sweet spot or should i just get a degree marker before even trying to make this happen?since there is only 4 spots on the cap i take it i don't need a coil? there is only one spot on the case to hook a wire up to it, i would imagine that is for the key switch?man do i feel like a rookiethankstk
If it is a X You turn the shaft until it just clicks over. Then with the engine at TDC rotate the mag until the rotor is pointing to #1. Make sure you tighten the clamp. You can make finer adjustments after it is running. I used to time mine to where it would just not quite kick back the starter with a warm engine. Some guys would put more advance and would get the engine cranking with the starter then turn on the ignition. They only have 12 degrees at most, according to the book. The impulse allows the timing to lag behind until 2 or 300 RPM's. This is called the lag angle and it is the total advance. Some mags have this lag angle # stamped on the plate The impulse will make a clattering noise as it snaps over at slow RPM's. They used to make keyed magneto ignition switches, I have one somewhere's. No coil needed. Just throw your head back and drive.
Hi all. Taking off on another fella's question about how to start an old engine, I have a question about what to do before starting an old banger. Quick back story. Dad just purchased a 31 sw town sedan. Purchased 47 years ago by current owner. An extremely rust free car (still has what appears to be original black paint on the frame and suspension) steel floor boards have no rust in them. Engine is out and on a very heavy duty homemade engine stand. The guy dad bought it from said that his dad went through the engine about 30 or 35 years ago. He said that he had checked and tightened up the bearings, did a valve job, put it back together but never got a carb on it. Dist. is in. oil pan is on. oh i think it had new rings at that time too. What should we do before even attempting to start. I haven't even checked to see if it turns. We may be getting this tomorrow or next weekend. Would love to get the banger running, even if just on the stand to see if it needs rebuilding. Ask for any info i might have left out. EDIT: the info I'm looking for has probably been posted before, but my search skills are not good apparently. If someone wants to point me toward an old post about this I'd appreciate that too. Thanks Scott
Trust me it is cheaper to take time and pull the motor down. You'l be far better off and less chance of loosing what you have
From what I see in the pictures the engine still has the rear engine mounts. This would negate the need for a separate transmission mount.
Thanks for the reply. any book or manuals you could recommend so when it gets torn down we'd kno what to look for and what tolerances should be? thanks, Scott
engine breathers whos using them and where are you useing them ? With the build up of my Rutherford overhead engine I am thinking of useing them they may take some of the pressure off the back seal. My Rutherford sump has provision for them but would they also be ok on the sideplate?
I would blow the filler tube out until I put one on the upper edge of drivers side of the pan Not enough room on the passenger side, headers too close on my engine.
Scott F Bluto is giving you good advice- better to take a little extra time now to find out what you have. The most interesting thing about A and B engines, is that the 20 or so that I have bought over the last 55 years, EVERY ONE had just been rebuilt a few years before--or so it was claimed by the seller. Bought one engine (but not a Ford) from a high school principal, who told me that he had run it before he pulled it, and that it "sounded real good". It had no top on one piston. After you put an A or B engine together, pour a quart of oil down the distributor hole- lubes the distributor/oil pump drive gear, and fills the rod drip troughs, so that the rods get oil right away rather than after the oil pump fills everything up. Herb Kephart
Its my understanding that keeping a torque tube that attaches to the rear of the transmission a mount is needed.....
My stock Model A doesn't have a separate transmission mount. Just the front engine mount and the two rear engine mounts.
I usually use this method for running up an engine for the first time to get it at least up to temp to drain the oil. Don't forget the ballast resistor !. Make sure the 12v coil has an internal resistor or make sure you put one in series with the positive side of the coil.
I think you could run it without a trans mount, but because the pivot point has been moved back, there is more leverage applied to the rear engine mount. That will put more stress on the whole assy. I do not have pictures, but you could mount it this way:
I have noticed a bit of a lack of diversity on this months meet. Come on guys we need to love everyone and pratice political correctness. For some reason that escapes me right now. But anyway I thought I would do my part with some non Ford pictures. Progress is very slow. I just can't get much done at any one sitting. But I am moving in the right direction.
i was thinking the same thingwhat can you guys tell me about the f-head jeep enginei was looking at one othe other day and it looks like it could be addapted to a model a transtk
Rich, What are the make and size of these carbs again? I've nabbed a pretty nice pair of working HI4's for the Chevy, but always open to ideas.
134 cubes and maybe 70 horses, When I was in the Army (1955} we had a flathead that would run away from the "F" heads. Just luck, I suppose. We did spend more time tuning on that particular flathead, even had a straight pipe set up for it.
I always thought that was what they were supposed to do! But then, I feel the same way about Strombergs
Bluto- You talked about making tubular con-rods. Would you expand on that? Material? Size and wall of tube? etc?? Or "H" beam rods? Thinking in terms of the Ford, Chev and Mopar engines we're discussing. Thanks - Norm
Please refresh my memory ...... When did I talk about making tubular rods H rods yes, I have made for me but nothing tubular
Herb (ebtm3) talked about the idea of making connecting rods in the Chevy banger thread, btu I think he was talking about H rods instead of tubular as well.
I would think the wire hook up is for the kill switch. Don't run power to it or you'll ruin the magneto. SOMEBODY CORRECT ME IF I"M WRONG. I hooked my Scintilla up by doing what justplainbill said.
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