Well I did it, I definitely had to notch the crossmember to use the Chevy II oil pan with Butch's kit. But other than that, things went well. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I’m glad to see this post. I have a 51 ford custom and I’m putting a 350 with 350 turbo in it . I used the Jamco engine mounts and transmission crossmember kit. I was told and seen posts about me not having to hammer out my trans tunnel and firewall, but the transmission hits the fire wall still. Anyone else have or had this issue? Can I just get away with massaging the fire wall a bit or cut it? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That's Krazzy. I did nothing to the Tin anywhere, firewall or tunnel. This is a 350 and a 700-R-4. Rad and core support are in stock location and I run a long water pump with a manual fan. It's also not the first time I've done this combo. Now 49-50 will need a bit of Floor work being the Automatic didn't come out till 51 and that gave a bit more tunnel room. You probably need to pull the motor forward a bit. I hate Kit's. That seems to be where a lot of issues stem from.
I can’t move the motor forward since the mounts I got from this kit push against the crossmember Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well when what you have is hand built and don't work figure out why and what it takes to make it work. That's the Cut-n-Weld part of Hot Rodding. Kit's in general are just a way to get you close, seldom a good solution. Sad as that is it's been that way as long as I can remember. The #1 reason I don't buy parts like mounts, I build to fit what I need. From my point of view and what I see in your Photo a simple Drill motor could fix your issue. P.S. I don't think like normal people.
This kit sucks. I spent most of last night cutting and welding some plate to make new mounts. Thank you for the photos that’s a sexy engine Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well, the bolt in mounts showing have what looks like 3 bolts mounting them to the Frame. Determine how much further forward you need the motor to have good placement and redrill the 3 bolt holes to accommodate the move and bolt them back in place. I gotta say those are pretty Cheezy looking mount brackets.
I thought about that and the oil pan would sit on the crossmember. Even if I added a riser plate to clear it. I’m going to try the mounts I’m making and hope they work if not. I’ll make another set and try something different Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Eddymunster805, The early Chevy II/Nova oil pans (62-67) are front sump. Every other Chevrolet engine used a rear sump pan. Hard to tell, but it looks like a rear sump pan would have worked, but I'm really not up on the various Fords. There is an aftermarket 62-67 Chevy II/Nova pan with a rear sump, with a notch cut in the front of the sump for cross link clearance; that pan may have worked for you. I have one I used on my 63 Chevy II Station Wagon many years ago. One last observation, you need to replace the split washer on your crank dampener bolt. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
A standard rear sump pan is what you want to use, not a front sump. Personally I think from what I see that mount bracket would end up in my Scrap bucket. You don't really want the Motor weight just hanging on the mount through bolt. Looks like that's what ya got there, if the mount and bracket hole lined up.
Hey there Butch, The rear sump pan hits the tie rod and from what I have seen others use the front sump oil pan Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Tie Rod hits the Pan with the Bolt in mounts your trying to use? Maybe the Motor should be mounted just a bit higher so things clear. Can that be done if you hand build the mount stands?
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