At some point someone started cutting the roof tack strip mounting area out I was fortunate enough to find the rear portions of this last summer at Louisville nationals swap meet , the rest needed to be pieced in Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
No plans yet Tim but you never know. If were going it wont be with a car this time, unless Mike speeds up and get one of his Coupe´s together and I get a spot in the rumble seat
I was able to find a 36 Ford coupe seat for my 32. While wider I figured I could modify it to fit the 5 window. I also purchased a new set of springs from snyders Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So I decided to start working on the issues with door fit and gaps. The screw driver is necessary to keep the door in place as the hinge is totally out of alignment
a couple more shots. the last one with the sheet metal cut off. none of the cuts made internally on the structure were welded ....
Reminds me of having to build the windshield posts and header on the cabrio. I stuffed some 1"x1" tubing down through the A pillar up to the header. I'm thinking that's something that wasn't as fun as other parts of the project. Tim
Have to say this ranked right up their on the list of not so fun items Shocked me that they made cuts to the posts and then did not weld it up Oh well it wasn't aligned right anyways Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That A pillar looks like a snausage. I'm sure when it's done it will look like perfection.,,, make Henry proud!!
finally got around to putting the patch in the fender I first cut the patch 4 1/2 inches wide square I then laid it over the area to be cut out and scribed the outside line The cut the bad area out The key is keeping the panels lined up flush then tacked I work from one end to the other Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
wow! amazing transformation I will be referencing and rereading this over and over as I attempt to teach myself some rudimentary body/metalwork skills I was wondering a few things why did you decide to build the left side from scraps vs a repro 1/4? and how much do you think you have spent on the original body parts you started with and various patch panels? I think you said $1750 for the 3/4s of a coupe (good 1/4, door, 1/2 cowl, and swiss cheese L 1/4) was it alot cheaper than the whole body you found later? I have been practically blowing my brains out trying to figure how to repair a set of A roadster 1/4s that were trimmed at the body bead back in the war days to convert into a truck for extra gas ration (I know i'm sort of answering my first question lol) they don't repro that piece and it has so many curves going on its really intimidating, but i'm a conservationist by nature and too broke to buy new 1/4s I do have some really rough coupe 1/4s but they are considerably shorter and the bead line is flatter however they do share the same curvature in the area where the trunk sits as the trunks are the same. I thought hammer the roadster bead back into shape and cut the coupe panel along the bead What success will i have welding right on the bead line? will it make that area unworkable? any suggestions are appreciated!
Thanks A-V8 ok, let me make a run at answering your questions First on the quarter, repo 5 wondow qtrs were not available . Regardless I would not have bought one . As crazy as it seems, I wanted to improve my skill set. I can tell you I would not do it again .
As for the cost of patch panels Both bodies needed essentially the same patch panels . The difference in cost was the subrails , I used rear Brookville cutoff's the first one and made The front 1/2 On the later I bought the entire rail from Brookville A guess on price on the panels only 1500-2300 respectfully in panels rails and floor One option on learning how to make the parts for the panels you need is an area metal meet , pm me if you would like details Mike
Another answer to your last question if you intend to combine the portions of 2 qtrs. get a good handle on the straightening process before you begin (if not a skill you have mastered) Please don't take that the wrong way , I don't know if your ability. You can inflict more damage than necessary in trying to reverse it if you are not familiar with the process . 3 books to read, that have provided great inspiration to me are: The key to metal bumping- frank t Sargent Automobile sheet metal repair- robert L Sargent Automotive body and fender repairs -c.e. Parker Note: I listed them in order of importance Another is the hammers you buy I only use plumb/proto and snap-on and specific models , I certainly use the 1427 Plumb ( I have 3) more than any other With few exceptions these are the best in the business, FYI-Martin makes the snap-on hammers today. Dollies are also key and learning on and off dolly hammering is important, really try to understand when you are stretching the metal. Typically hammer on dolly will do this , and typically you don't want to stretch . another key is shrinking I find this hard to do even with lot's of practice. I prefer to tig versus mig when welding sheet metal, don't get me wrong you can mig anything and repaired lot's of rust early o with this method. Tig does not get as brittle as mig and is easier to work with after your finished welding. Welding is an art form, we'll sort of ,but most anyone can learn how to do this . Patience is the key when welding panels , don't let the welds get away from you (warping for example ) tack it all and weld a little at a time . Another key in the process use the same gauge metal to repair your parts has henry did, 19 gauge. not 20 or 18. I often tack with a mig and grind the tacks down before tig welding Hope that helps Mike
Thanks Mike I really appreciate the detailed response....I realized later that much of my comment should have been sent in a pm lol but you've given such an informative response that I'm sure it will help more than just this newb......I've got some reading to do!
Glad the metalworking discussion is out in the open rather than in pms, I found the responses very informative. Mart.
This 5Window save has motivated a lot more people than you may think to work on their projects, I read every update you post. Bob
Thanks Guys I appreciate the feedback and inspiration. Not an expert but will share what I've learned, mostly though trial an error . Lots of error ..., Worked hard on both cars yesterday , seat and welded in the floor on the chopped car Will post some pictures perhaps tonight Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
As promised here is the seat, finished it yesterday Reproduction springs purchased through mac's Rails are speedway altered to fit the modified 36 ford seat base Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's the chopped car , floor is now in Also a project from yesterday Seat is the toyota I shortened a year or so ago Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
