Got a new axle for my 40 tudor project and trying to decide on a finish. This will be a very casual around town hot rod. What did you use?
IMHO,being under a fat fendered Ford I would just paint the axle but you and I both know powder coating will be more resistant to chipping the finish. HRP
If your going to do it yourself I say paint it. But if your going to pay someone to do it have it powder coated.
The older I get the less I paint. We have almost everything powder coated these days. Just so much easier, drop off rusty parts and pick up ready to bolt on pretty ones. I think it is also easier to maintain on a driver, dirt washes right off. Don
I'm a little biased because I live in an area with a lot of gravel roads, but I agree... go bulletproof and powdercoat. It will look pretty a lot longer.
I've done several highboys and when powder coating is available use it. You'll be happier in the long run. I used to live on a gravel road and had a 32 sedan that had over 40K on it and the red powder painted front axle looked like the day I installed it.
I think if it was a fender less car and the axle was visible I would powder coat it. Since you are putting it under a "fat fender" car and can't be seen I would give it a nice paint job and forget about it. I painted the axle under my '46 "Woodie" and it's held up just fine after 40K miles.
Use a good primer that is the same color as the top coat so it doesn't show the chips like black n white. JW
My philosophy on powder coating vs painting is this: I prefer to powder coat all the myriad little parts of my car for the durability of finish and ease of cleaning it offers. But on large items like frames and axle housings, that are likely to need updating or repair in the future I just use (usually black) paint. I've seen many times where drag racing buddies got their dragster frames powder coated only to have a motor mount crack, a new cooler that needs mounting tabs welded on, or mandated safety specs updated (e.g. helmet bars on the cage) that required the powder coating be ground away for welding. Likewise on hot rods maybe at some point you may want to add a panard bar to the front for stability or a sway bar to the back. So if there is a likelihood that the component will need repair/updating I just paint it. Otherwise I powdercoat when possible.
We can power coat cheaper than buying paint in our area. Paint is pretty and pits can be filled but I wouldn't use it on any chassis parts except a hiboy. Painted axle (new) and still had rough casting marks to deal with. Single stage PPG 9300. Powder coated the new parts and they look much better.
I would also be on the powder coat band wagon. You dont have to worry as much about rock chips, jacking.
Paint it. Powder coat is a permanent fix for sure perhaps more permanent then paint in the eyes of most but it is also very hard to reverse when the time comes for a change.
How do you deal with things like king pin bosses and any other holes when powder coating? Does the powder coater generally take care of that?
On my model T the axle and steering arms are all powder coated.Lots more choices of finish if your not locked into black.There are cool machine finishes available.
I painted mine with Black Epoxy Appliance Paint. I have been using it for years on 4x4 axles and it dries almost as solid as powder coating. It takes a while longer to cure than paint, but has held up well for me when scraping against rocks, etc... The axle in my '40 won't see the kind of abuse that the axles, brush guard and rock sliders sees regularly. Another option is Krylon...or is it Rustoleum Professional.
In regards to Powder Coat in King Pin bores and holes, you can tape them up or put a wood plug in them as the Powder Coat is very hard to clean out. JW
Everything under my coupe is powder coated and I do not plan any major suspension changes on it so powder is good. As far my 40 tudor I plan for it to be just the opposite of my coupe, a simple hot rod subject to changes on a whim. The axle will be painted I have decided. Thanks for all the input.
As to how to protect the kingpin and radius rod bosses and holes. Two years ago I sent an axle out to be powder coated. I purchased fender washers about the boss size and coupled them with 1/4"-20 bolts. When I got the axle back I just removed the bolt and trimmed around the washers with a razor.
They should be tapped off and you have to say with a loud voice to the powder coater (preferably in front of witnesses) that there can be no powder coating in said holes. You cannot just expect the powder coater to know what you know, he's a painter not a mechanic.
That's the best method. Depending on the coater to properly mask everything will at best run up the cost, and may lead to frustration if/when they miss things. What I do is plug (with fabricated metal or bolts; remember this has to survive the blasting process) any critical holes, then for any others either run a tap into threaded holes or a drill bit or hone into unthreaded holes to chase any coating out of them. This works better IMO than plugging everything, as you don't end up with 'lips' around all the plugs. And your coater will love you, as he doesn't have to worry about masking with the side benefit of a lower coating price. The downside is coating is nearly impossible to 'repair'; if it gets damaged, you pretty much need to recoat.