Beautiful Clark!!! It's really coming along and I can't wait to see where it goes. As you had stated I am pretty sure you are correct with my seat being "wrong" but I am going to work with it. I missed out on those '36 seat brackets but I am in the middle of making some to suite my needs. Thanks for the inspiration!!!
..more updates P L E A S E ! You´re doing a helluva job ! This is gonna be the koolest 36 three window ! Keep the pics a comin`!
Thanks guys. This is quick mock up we done a couple of weeks back. I wanted to see how it sat now after changing the axle, springs and the bigger tyres. Its sitting nose up at the moment because of the lack of an engine. The weight of the engine should bring the stance level. The back is showing what the ride height is. Its got roughly a 2" drop over stock but it looks just as high if not higher than a stocker. I think its the chop thats throwing the proportions off? It needs to come down some more but not too much! I'm going to leave it for now and wait until its on the road and maybe mess around with the spring packs to get some more drop from them. At the moment they are just stock with reversed eyes. Apart from that it looks pretty much exactly the same as when I got it 6 months ago!
You say that like it's a bad thing..... I'll be happy if mine looks half as good as yours two years from now!
A few of pictures from the mock up a few weeks back. The car never came with any seat, only the two runners that the seat base attaches to. After looking at Glide seats, over priced tat and modern pick-up benches, just old tat. I found that you could get most of the '36 3w seat structure new from Lebaron Bonny. What I got from LB was the basic wooden structures and the base and back cushions and not alot of idea of how it went together! After studying many photos of Early Ford seats that I had found around the web it became clear that what I was missing was the steel base that tied all the parts of the seat in together. With no chance of ever getting a base we decided to make one. Heres what we ended up with. And for its party trick... In the 3W the rear of seat lifts up so you gain access to the boot. It would would of been a crime to not put this feature back. Another feature of the coupe is the wind down rear window. under the window is a box that catches the water so it hopefully drains off somewhere other than the boot! Unsurprisingly this was rotten. A days work had a replacement made and fitted.
As always,great work Clark! I'll maybe steal a couple of ideas from that seat assembly! Cheers and Merry Christmas, mark
I've got all my gauges stripped from the dash. I'd like to put the speedo back to zero. How do I do it? I guess you connect it up to a drill but do you actually turn it backwards or keep it going forward until it goes completely around the clock?
What gauges are you looking to do??? Thosre are not stock Ford units are they? I have a '39 Cadillac cluster I always thought would look awesome center mounted in a Westergard custom. I think I am putting in '53 Desoto gaguges in my '35. I really like the original ones and was going to go with them but I feel like I can't leave well enough alone and these might give what is slated to be an all black interior some eye candy. Should be subtle also though seeing how it matches the three gauges that came in there originally just a little bigger and some new color. Also, what kind of paint did you use to paint the suspension components? Was it single stage or POR-15??? I'll probably have a mixture of both I think! We need more pics!!!
Clark its really coming along, nice work and progress! That seat is awesome! I didn't get seats with my '35 phaeton and gotta make something. -Shiny
The speedo is lincoln Zephyr to go with the Lincoln Zephyr dash! Most the suspension was painted in a mixture of Hammerrite and rattle can! It is the one of the main ports so almost everything comes through there. There is always a large cross section of cars and bikes waiting to be collected.
Looking forward to seeing that dash assembled. good luck on the odometer or leave it. dont know any tricks on going back to zero.
Clark, I 'think' and I stress again 'Think' that if you take the odometer out of its casing you will be able to turn the tumblers to get the reading back to zero. They are slightly spring loaded so can be pulled back and turned to get the reading you want. A misspent youth 'clocking' Cortina's and Escorts leads me to think this might be the same on your set up. Plus I just zero'd my PU speedo and it this was the method I uses. Excersise caution..... Happy New Year. P.
The plan over the Christmas break was to get the body off the frame, turn it over to finish it off and lay some paint on it so it could go back on for good. The cold snap but an adrupt end to these plans, way to cold and damp to even think about paint. At abit of a loss we decided to carry on with the 101 little jobs that need to be completed. At the end of the day its all got to be done so its all progress in the right direction. I'm determined to have a good heater in the car. Vintage heaters were out of the question because of the LZ dash dividing the interior in two. It would of ment the passenger burning while the driver froze! Attention turned to the old faithfull Mini heater but space is tight and they are just a little on the bulky. Mention was made on another forum of a good compact heater being from a Rascal/Carryall van, once you'd removed all the crap from it. Heres what a started with... And what I was left with when I finished... The plan is to mount it in he center console with the matrix directly behind the lourves in the center console so the heat will blow out from the center of the dash. We fitted up the window screen crank and the cowl vent to make sure it was all there and working. We also had concerns with clearance as its becoming very cluttered behind this part of the dash with all the stuff going on there. Heres what its starting to look like behind the dash. The window crank is there as well but obsecured by the dash. The cowl vent mechanism is '36, so is designed to be operated from under the middle of the dash. Due to the dash design (Again!) the handle had to moved over to one side. The handle was repositioned but kept on the same plane as its original position to keep things working correctly. Also kept the original handle mount so a stock vent handle can be used to keep it looking factory. The next worry was wether this lot cleared the gauge cluster which is also in the same area. It cleared everything with ease. The gauge cluster really brings the dash to life. Started fitting up the roof bows. The roof opening has been stretched about 6" over stock due to the chop so an extra stock bow will go in to keep things even. The boot lock had been mounted roughly but it did function well so its basic position was copied with a more permanent bracket and then boxed. Next job is garnish mouldings. The door window openings are nothing like a stock window opening. Cut and shut is going to be the order of the day on these!
So am I! The sides are finished, just waiting on the mounting hardware to finsih and mount them. It really shrinks the interior with its size. I think it looks way better in the Ford than a LZ just because it makes such a statement in the smaller interior of the Ford.
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