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Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by magnus13, Jun 29, 2015.

  1. magnus13
    Joined: Jun 1, 2013
    Posts: 141

    magnus13
    Member
    from California

    I'm about to embark on a 32 project. I've found a lot of things on other cars I like that I'd like to incorporate into mine, but I still have some basic questions. I've read through quite a bit of the posts here and am still a bit unclear.

    -I like the clean look of the front end of the 32 when the rails are hidden behind the grill. How are you guys getting this look? I assume this is called "pinching"? Is this done when you order the frame? Do you have to specify an about or is that a common didn't?

    -For the suspension, I like the looks of the traditional solid I beam type axle, but I've heard the ride is a bit rough and there's a fair amount of bump steer. Is that true? How does this axle type compare to IFS (other than cost)?

    -I've seen some guys go fiberglass on the bodies and others steel. Other than cost, is there a reason I'd go one over the other?

    -I live in southern California and I'm looking for a recommendation for a shop I can talk to about getting started. I'd rather have someone I can drive to and work thru than someone on the other side of the country.

    Thanks for your tips as I get started.

    Gunder
     
  2. Lot and lots of threads on here regarding building what you're considering. Instead of jumping in on your first post with questions, why not spend some time reading the appropriate threads.
     
    40fordtudor and i.rant like this.
  3. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    sounds like another street rodder took a 'wrong toyn at albakoykee' and ended up here in the twilight zone...fresh meat!
     
  4. Some will say pinch the rails (if you want that look). Others will say it's blasphemous. I-beam axles ride just fine and if set up right offer no bumpsteer. Please do NOT put IFS if you're building a fenderless car. (That's blasphemous). Glass or steel, your decision. Purists may berate you if you don't go steel, but they're not writing the checks, you are. You're in Southern California, there must be literally dozens and dozens of capable shops. If you see a car at a show or cruise that you like, ask the owner who built it and what parts did they use.
     

  5. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,874

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    It looks like you've been on here for a few years reading already. I'll try to give you as best a straight answer as I cam with my limited experience.

    • Yes, it is called pinching, you would need to pinch the rails of your frame to get them to disappear behind the grill shell if the grill shell was designed to fit between the rails.
    • IFS has no place on a traditionally styled fenderless build. You can control bump-steer and rough handling with good geometry and shocks.
    • Fiberglass 32 bodies are a lot easier to source than an original steel body. A lot of the challenge of doing an original steel 32 is locating one.
    • You live in SoCal, so sending it to the other side of the country makes no sense; there are more shops out there than you can shake a stick at.
     
    volvobrynk and lothiandon1940 like this.
  6. Did I go too easy on him, Larry?:D
     
    40fordtudor, X38 and 3wLarry like this.
  7. If you go Glass use Westcott / Steel Brookville or original. I agree with what has been said so far. Good Luck and do not rush. Do your homework.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2015
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  8. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I may be the one who misunderstands the term 'pinched rails" or "pinching".
    I've seen the term applied to narrowing the rails at the firewall/cowl intersection
    with the rails when using a T or A body which are narrower than a '32.

    The OP's question is about the 'rails disappearing behind the grille. If I interpret
    the question correctly, that would involve both 'pinching' and 'bobbing' (shortening)
    the rails to result in their being hidden behind the grille shell.

    Ray
     
    Squablow, volvobrynk, clem and 3 others like this.
  9. He was a little ambiguous about that. Some folks pinch 'em for a '32 as well so there's not such a gap where the shell meets the rails.
     
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You got it exactly right, Ray.
     
  11. I have a concept for a deuce that no one has considered here. First get a car then embark on the journey.

    As for glass or steel the whole concept of one or the other is entirely dependent on two things depth of pockets and desire to build something pure or something slightly whooorish. I personally like whores so from a puritanical standpoint I may lean toward glass unless of course I had deep pockets in which case I would build one pure and just whore it out. :eek: :D
     
  12. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,270

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Magnus---
    Have you decided on a full fendered car or a highboy style build?
    Gary Maxwell @Blackboard hot rods in Bakersfield is well versed in what you are proposing, he is quite a busy guy so do some more research to know the look you are after. As had been said, pinching frame rails at the cowl is one of the more popular mods on a deuce chassis, the number most commonly used is 3/4 in. (per side), see photo of my car.
    DSCN1627.JPG

    I did my frame rails this way because I never liked the looks of the big gap between the bottom of the hood sides and the frame rails near the grille shell. This is done often even with stock length rails.
    It is also popular on cars with bobbed front frame horns to also shorten the rear frame ends and replace the stock style gas tank with one in the trunk just behind the seat.
    If using an aftermarket hood(such as Rootlieb), order your hood made (one) inch longer than stock, this gives a little more space between engine fan and radiator.
    If you decide on a fiberglass body consider Wescott's, it is very strong as well as dimensionally accurate. A little more money, but worth it in my opinion.
    BTW---take your time and enjoy the process of the build.
    Keep us posted, we like lots of build pictures.
     
    volvobrynk and lothiandon1940 like this.
  13. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,262

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    so, your profile gives no info about your back round with cars. since talking about a '32, did you go to the recent LA Roadster's Father's Day Show? could have had a lot of questions answered there. sure you want to start from ground zero? why not buy a done, or close to done, ride? Walden's Speed Shop & So Cal Speed Shop, both in Pomona, are starting points. but, sure there are many others in OC area that could help you out.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  14. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    The OP said "pinched", but as previously mentioned I think he is referring to (bobbed) since pinching only wouldn't hide them behind the grille as he stated. Here are pinched and bobbed rails, it would make sense to pinch if they are bobbed but would probably still look good at stock width. To bob or not is a matter of taste/look for the owner.

    As mentioned, do your homework, LOTS of great info here, all you will need to help you decide your build style/direction.

    IMG_5294.jpg IMG_5296.jpg KopiaavIMG_1754.jpg
     
    volvobrynk, kiwijeff, clem and 2 others like this.
  15. Yeah, I think he needs to study some pictures and look at lots of cars in person to determine exactly what look he wants. Nothing worse than plunging headlong into a project only to find out midway through it that you want to make massive changes. I've known guys like that. This is not an inexpensive project, don't make it more expensive than it needs to be. Get a plan in place and follow it to fruition. If you're in doubt about things like paint and interior you may be able to put off that decision for a while, but as far as chassis goes figure it out NOW, not after the frame is built.
     
    volvobrynk, Hnstray and ct1932ford like this.
  16. Key.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  17. Ready to be flamed ... but if you're flush with cash, BUY what you want. If flush with vision (when you get it), BUILD IT. Cheaper to get one for fun, then building with maybe a missed step or ten. This place is all about putting some great stuff together ... but as well, it's all about finding someone else's lost treasures too. More often then not, you are money ahead .... but where's the fun in that ? !!! ?

    In the meantime, check out the classifieds here. Greatness is found within, of every dimension. You may surprise yourself with your many tastes. Mmmmmm, mmmmm ... 'tis good !!
     
    lothiandon1940 and volvobrynk like this.
  18. Magnus 13,
    Given the nature of your questions, I suspect you've never built or bought a '32 Ford.
    I'd recommend you buy an existing running car that's close to what you want. Drive it for a while, then as you gain experience, either modify it to suit your precise tastes or sell it and start a from-scratch project.
     
    lothiandon1940 and volvobrynk like this.
  19. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,495

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Beaner you have such a backassward way with words a code book should be issued...I understand you though...:D
     
  20. Whilst we are talking "pinched and bobbed", many examples will show "spring behind axle" compared to the stock "over axle" configuration. Something else to think about.
     
    lothiandon1940 and volvobrynk like this.
  21. magnus13
    Joined: Jun 1, 2013
    Posts: 141

    magnus13
    Member
    from California

    Thanks for the replies. Yes, I've been watching this board for some time now and visiting a lot of shows to try to understand various things and find out what it is I like. One thing I notice about being new to a forum is I read about various terminology, but I don't understand the exact meanings of everything just yet.

    A little about me: I've been building, things, all my life and have been doing metal work the last 10-15 years. I've built a few sand rails from scratch and my last project was an electric golf cart/4WD golf cart conversion (I basically stripped an electric cart to it's frame, chopped the axles from a Suziki Samurai to fit the footprint, and dropped the engine and tranny from a 92 geo metro into the cart. Viola: 4 wheel drive cart. I posted a build thread here if you want to grab a case of beer and spend the time looking through it: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/big-...ok-maybe-not-ultimate-but-its-going-cool.html).

    So while I am new to this build, I'm not shy to start on these kinds of projects and I'd rather spend the time building and learning, as opposed to buying something.

    I'm looking forward to learning from you guys and contributing where I can.

    Thanks all!
     

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  22. magnus13
    Joined: Jun 1, 2013
    Posts: 141

    magnus13
    Member
    from California

    Thanks 117harv. Yes, this is what I'm looking for. I'm looking to go highboy fenderless. I was at the Pomona show a few weeks ago and came across a few cars with this front end. I also talked to some guys with 32's with the fuel tank behind the seat. I'd never seen that before and I really liked it.

    Regarding an over vs. behind the axle suspension, what's the purpose in going behind? Is it so you can get the ride height lower?

    Thanks for the tips Jalopy and Denny. I'll check those guys out.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  23. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,223

    clem
    Member

    Go for it, best way to learn is to try it yourself. The things you can't do, get/ pay someone else to do. Enjoy the experience.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  24. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    This is a nice thread, I guy with a good skill set wants to convert to hot rods, kudos.

    No attitude and wants to learn, I say let him.

    This is a very unique place, and has some talented guys, that know there stuff.

    I can recommend you surf the web and uses the search function. And if you bring back some good pictures of hot rods so we can figure out your era we can give you some advice, maybe even piece together a shopping list.

    Is it to stereotype of me to assume that being from SoCal you want a roadster on 32 frame?
    Because there are a lot of ways to go, and despite some might be borderlinen non-HAMB cars they should be a place for them.

    So show us what you want.

    Here is some ideers.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006124.092884.jpg
    Unknown car, that I find good, but dosent have the pinched and bobbed rails
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006201.728538.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006222.953821.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006279.007939.jpg
    The farther days rod, build by Pete chapalud (so) from Pete and Jake,
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006310.418415.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006398.005688.jpg
    This is the Khoguz channeled 32 dry lake survivor
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1436006648.020337.jpg
    This is a 35/36 truck grill cut down, today some people call I at RR, but to me that is a Hot Rod.

    This is just some ideas, but try googling the Larson '32 roadster, the Anderregg 51 AMBR winner and the niekamp roadster. Just to see. Some different cars, and get the feelings for the look.

    And remember back in the day, coast style (East coast vs West west) and era perfect vs modern traditional rods, can be very different.
    Small light and spring behind was an era thing, like tube axles. And I for one likes that look.
    But the modern traditional look dictates running a dropped 32 heavy axle.
    It's an personally choice you have to make.

    There is I thread by Jim so key called what is a hot rod, there is some nice pictures of some very different rods too. Go and have a look.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/what-is-a-real-hotrod.978322/

    There is a very good thread about a guy doing a '32 pick up, but does the most beautiful work on a 32 front end, and sells a lot of bolt in stuff, his farther and him runs a rod shop, or hot rods parts vendor shop.

    I'll go and look it up.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-pickup-rebuild-thread.970252/c
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2015
  25. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

  26. Good info, brynk.:)
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  27. 40fordtudor
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,503

    40fordtudor
    Member

    I read Beaner's response and my sides still hurt.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  28. If I had to choose I would much ruther be surrounded with common folk who are capable of thinking than with uncommon folk who don't understand the concept of thinking. ;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2015
  29. Grab yourself a copy of "How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" by Bishop & Tardel.
    A good read packed with those ideas. Functional and metaphysical to get that project started...
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  30. magnus13
    Joined: Jun 1, 2013
    Posts: 141

    magnus13
    Member
    from California

    Thanks for all the tips guys. Been reading a lot about the various builds and I have an idea what I'm looking for at the end of the project.

    Volvo: I don't know if it's stereotypical, or coincidental, but I was drawn to the 32 long ago before I knew anything about rodding and realized it's a So Cal thing. I like the size of the 32 vs earlier years. It's got some beef to it, but it's still a smaller rod compared to the later years. The pre 32 years I never liked how narrow they appear. Later years, i.e. a 33-34, I never liked the pointed grill. Definitely no fenders. And I don't think I want to go channeled.

    So before I can figure out the frame, I need to figure out a lot of other things first.

    Starting with the attached images, I like the stance on these (#1,2,4,5. The cherry red rag top, #3 is a little low though). What kind of suspension setup would I be looking at front and rear for this? I've seen different drop sizes on the axles. Is the drop from the midline/bottom of the axle to the midline of the kingpin or the centerline of the wheel? How's that measured? Is this spec required for the frame manufacturer?

    The cherry red rod (#3) is shown for the front end (pinched and bob'd). That's what I'm looking for.

    For the rear, I like the look of hiding the tank in the trunk and showing a polished quick change differential. I'm thinking a 4 bar/w panhard bar and coil overs. Although from experience with coilovers on dune buggies, unless they're fairly long, the ride can be stiff, which isn't good on desert trails, but that may not be an issue on the street. It doesn't seem like there's a whole ton of room under the body, so I'm wondering if coil overs would be a good idea. Thoughts?

    Ruffdawg: I've spent the last few years reading and re-reading and re-re-reading all these books. I actually used a lot of these techniques when I was building my buggies in the past which was extremely helpful:
    http://www.amazon.com/Build-1932-Ford-Street-RodHP1478/dp/1557884781/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436076170&sr=8-1

    http://www.amazon.com/Build-Traditional-Ford-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760309000/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436076152&sr=8-1

    http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Hot-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760313040/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1436076152&sr=8-3
     

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