Projects Kurt’s Puddle Jumper - 1930 Model A Extended-Cab Pickup Build

maybe look at the potential of using a PVC or alternative product instead of PT. I’ve seen PT eat through aluminum when used as garage door bucks.

 

Thanks Mavawreck. Even at 79, learn something new everyday. Will replace with non-pressure treated but seal the bottom and put a rubber spacer under the door bucks. (That's something else I learned. I never heard of door bucks before)

 

Could not find any 2x8 PVC so replaced the bottom portions of the garage door frames with untreated wood. I did spray them with water proofing and put plastic sheet between the back and the concrete block and then put 1/8 inch rubber under each between the wood and the concrete slab. Should last another 15 years which is longer then I expect to last.


Now to on topic. Kurt finally got new shoes on his hind feet. I was going to just balance the old fronts but Wally World refused to balance them being too old and not enough tread. "Corporate Policy". Bought the rears at Wally World because I want American tires at a reasonable price ($94). After the fact, researching I found they are made exclusively for Wally and made in Mexico. Well my criteria was American(lol). Guess I may have to buy two matching smaller once for the front.

 

Its been 5 weeks since I last posted. Not a lot of progress to report. Been trying to diagnose a problem. Have taken Kurt for a few short drives. Runs great when engine is cold but when it gets warm it backfires in the exhaust pipes and cuts out on light acceleration. If I really goose it it accelerates just fine.

A lot of checking and research (internet and HAMB) leads me to believe its the Quadrajet Carb APT circuit. I did find it was running very rich and then found I had never hooked up the electric choke however wiring the choke open did not fix the problem. I found a number of references to exhaust leaks causing the backfire in the pipes and since my exhaust is only tack welded together, they are many leaks.

My diagnosis was interrupted with needing to get ready for a trip to Talladega for the race last week. MH has sat in the garage for 16 months due to Covid and then $5 gas prices. It took almost 3 weeks getting it back in shape. Funny how systems don't like to be ignored for that long. Engine ran fine but getting the water systems right took too much time.

During this time I had taken Kurt on a test run to the grocery store for the first time. A woman parked next to me told me I had to take it the a car show the next day that I didn't even know about, so I did.


Kurt was way outclassed. I was parked next to a near perfect Deuce Roadster which made Kurt look terrible. The Deuce had a blown V6. Driving to the car show was the longest drive I have taken in Kurt (only about 6 miles). I found if I kept from part throttle cruising that it ran great. Hold back till I had enough room to accelerate and then goose it and then rinse and repeat.

I kept Kurt in semi run-able condition until my youngest daughter got here for Dega as she wanted to take a spin in it. She is the daughter that donated the engine and trans. She shot videos I will post when I have the time.

After Dega and cleaning up and putting away the MH I got started on rebuilding the Quadrajet. I had gotten the rebuild kit and other parts from Rockauto. Was going to get them from Quadrajetparts.com but they seem to have gone out of busness. First thing I found taking of the carb was that the front 2 bolts were only finger tight. Very likely a massive vacuum leak.



I also found the drivers side plenum in the intake was wet with fuel. I tried bench checking for the well plugs leaking but could not detect any leak. Will seal them anyway latter today with epoxy. Three passes cleaning the carb. It looks better in person then the photo shows.


Carb cleaner is not what it used to be.

OK, time to post this and get out in the garage and get to work.

Note: Reposted after removing prohibited picture.

 

As promised, videos my daughter shot when we took Kurt for a spin.

 

Spent almost 6 hours today putting the QuadraJet together, and together, and together ...

Here is a pic of the well plugs sealed. I used JB Weld Water Weld and let it setup for 2 days. Did not file it down pretty since it will hopefully never be seen.


Started putting it together about 9am and finished after 3pm. Two main problems. Getting the choke shaft into the little choke arm and getting the the top on the carb without the power piston coming out. Must have taken the top off and back on attest a dozen times till I got it right and the power piston moved properly.

Got it together once and found the choke link was on backward. Take it back off, redo the choke and more tries to get the top on.

Finally punched bigger holes in the top gasket where the metering rods go. Gasket was pushing the metering rods out of line and only against the plastic float cover so not sealing anything. Finally got top on and power piston and metering rods moving correctly.

All together, will install and test tomorrow.

 

OK, got the carb reinstalled yesterday and took Kurt for a test drive. Seems to be a little better. More responsive but still backfires thru the exhaust and cuts out on light acceleration occasionally. Tried adjust the APT and it may have improved but not gone yet. It started a light drizzle so put him away.

I'm going to pull the exhaust pipes and weld the joints to eliminate the massive leaks. Also going to investigate the extremely low vacuum reading I'm getting, about 10.

 

Forget about the low vacuum reading. Connected to direct manifold vacuum and have 18-20. Thought I was using an unmetered carb port but appears is was not.

Checked this morning and float bowl was still full and got an accelerator pump squirt on first pump.

 

A long week of exhaust work lying on the garage floor and about half done. Got both front pipes fully welded and middle hangers built and installed. Took a few of the welds before my welding skills woke up. I was doing more grinding then welding. I figured out one reason it took so long. I had over 5 feet of welding do to 5 joints on each side. 2 x 3.14 x 10. Not beautiful, but not going to leak.


Homemade middle exhaust hangers.



At the back you can see a mockup with a Cherry Bomb. I decided while I was underneath I would go ahead and finish the exhaust .





In the middle of all this, I was grinding away with the air powered angle grinder when my music stopped. I noticed my compressor was not running either. Investigation showed it had popped the GFCI. Reset it and popped the 20amp breaker. My 20 year old Craftsmen 6 HP 33 gal 150PSI compressor had died. I started searching online for parts and decided I would have to get a new one. I may still try to get new start and run capacitors but for now got a 27 gal 150 PSI Kobalt and connected the old Craftsman tank for extra capacity so now have a 60 gal setup.

Waiting on UPS to deliver some 45 degree 2 inch bends so I can finish up the rear exhaust.

 

I haven't been on in a while. I was looking through the thread titles and was thinking,
" I wonder how the puddle jumper is coming along..."
Then I saw you had posted today. Looks like it is coming along nicely!

 

Thanks JRS50 for the encouragement. I keep hammering away and try to get something done at least 4-5 days aweek.

45 degree bends finally arrived Monday after 5pm. Yesterday got the drivers side tailpipe, Cherry Bomb, and rear mount fitted and mostly welded. Passenger side fitted. I routed the tailpipes under the rear-end because there wasn't room above with the fuel tank there. Pipes still other the lowest point.

 

Finished welding and mounting exhaust. Sounds pretty good to me.



Think I found the cause of backfire in the pipes. Tried checking the timing on #1 plug wire (near the plug) could not see the timing mark. Touched up the timing mark to make it more visible and checked again using #1 wire at dist. Right where it should be. Chased the wires an sure enough #1 & #3 were swapped. Now I must have read online "check the firing order" 10 times and checked it about 5 times. Sixth time is the charm.

Hope to test drive tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

 

You need to invest in some good axle stands, those stacks of wood scare the hell out of me!

 

Dick Steven's I totally agree. Heavy duty jack stands are very high on my to buy list. In my defense, I did have a jack stand under the frame on the side I was working on, but had some second thoughts.

Took it for a couple of test drives today and it is running great. No backfire and and acceleration that almost scares me. Even took the bionic woman for a spin.

Now back to addressing my To Do List. One of the high priority items (after jack stands) is front tires.

 

Wood cribbing ( stacks of wood) is used to hold up millions of tons of machinery every day by riggers.
Yes, stands are more convenient.

 

Did you look at the stacks he had under the rear wheel? Those are not safe "wood cribbing" in any way shape or form! I know that properly made cribbing will work OK but those are a recipe for disaster!

 

OK, to put the wood subject away I'm picking up a set of 6 ton jackstands tomorrow.

Not much accomplished this week. Too many fall chores and spent 3 days cleaning up the garage. Over half the time was spent trying to clear off my workbench. I think I have more work area then ever.


Yesterday I spent a few hours trying to improve the pedal area. I reclocked the gas pedal to lower it and shortened the brake pedal arm about 1.5 inches. Sorry, no pics. Still not happy as I can't shift my right foot from the gas pedal to the brake comfortably. Going to have to reclock the brake pedal to lower it as well.

 

Was able to lower the brake pedal ALMOST level with the gas pedal. Did it by adjusting the linkage before and after the pivot. Still need to modify the pedal arm to get another inch.


Project for this week was to get the rear shocks mounted. Made a dummy shock out of 2/2 wood after figuring the 2/3 position on the shock.



Had to make wedges to account for the ladder bar mount that is angled. I may redo these with thick wall tubing and cut an angle with a cutoff disk.


I felt safer working under Kurt with my new jackstands.


Had to remove the exhaust pipes the drill the holes in the ladder bar mounts. My 60 year old half inch drill is too big to fit between the brake backing plate and the ladder bar mounts so had to drill from the inside. (I guess I could have pulled the brakes apart and removed the backing plates, but I think removing the exhaust pipes was the easier option).

Interim results. Sorry for the bad picture. Top bracket is just clamped in place for now.


Now have to get a siphon pump to empty the gas tank and pull it out before welding the brackets to the frame. Way too close the gas tank.

 

Remade the wedges using two pieces of thick wall tubing welded together with a washer and then welded to the ladder bar bracket.


Got both upper shock brackets partially welded in place and shocks installed.




Need to finish welding the upper brackets when I pull the bed to complete several items and need to repaint the ladder bar brackets.

Not a lot for the week but I'm not heating the garage up every day with the price of propane.

 

Weekly report. Got the bed pulled and disassembled. Kurt is now a Bob Tail.



Decided to cleanup the bed, repair rust damage, and get some paint on it before reinstalling. That is going to take awhile. You can see where I need to weld the shock bracket in the lower right of this pic.

 

Got the rear upper shock brackets welded and the bed framework cleaned up and painted.



Began filling extra holes and rebuilding the bottom of the stake pocket for the pass bed side. Forgot to take a before picture.





Finished the stake pocket and filling holes. Replace a rusted thru at the bottom front of the bed side.





I have a lot of paint and rust removal before it is ready for paint.

Before picture of the driver side before I start.

 

Spent the week working on the driver side bed side stake pocket. A few progress pics.




Ran out of welding Wire so had to stop for the day. This morning found I had a 2 pound spool in a drawer I forgot I had. Not the exact same as I have been using and does not appear to weld as clean as the old 10 pound real I was using.



Patch on bottom fitted.



Partially stitch welded.



That's all for now.

 

Just about finished welding the patch. A couple of pinholes to reweld. I hate this 2 lbs spool of welding wire. 3 times today it tied itself in a knot unrolling.

 

You can buy Hill Washers at a number of different places they are made for bolting on to I beams, They come in different degrees. Hillside Washers | McMaster-Carrhttps://www.mcmaster.com › hillside-washers

 

Thanks 1-Shot. I learn something new every day even @ 79.

 

Looks like you're doing a good job. I live a few miles from you in Unionville TN and also have a model A 29. I get to events in Manchester from time-to-time hope to see you some time. My son and friends go to the Chic fil a nights in Tulahoma in the summer. We have several Model A's in the group.

 

Thank you Dave. Hope to see you in Manchester next summer.

Finished the patch welding and covered the bare metal with primer to hold it over the holidays. Need to get some more stripping discs and finish cleaning them up.

 

One month and a day since my last post. Did not advertise that I would be away since this is a public forum. Spent 3 weeks in the northern climate (northern MN) at my youngest daughter's cabin. Two feet of snow before we arrived but little while we were there.


Kept busy with daddy do list items the biggest being installing a water softener.

Back to Kurt. Got shop supplies including stripping discs and new face shields. Old shield was so scratched and pitted was hard to see thru.


Got the one bed side inside completely stripped. Took all of one of the 4.5 inch stripping discs. The red primered part was previously stripped.



Got it covered with Rust Reformer Primer.



Now if it would only stay dry and warmup so I can strip the other side outside. Tried it in the garage and created way too much paint/rust dust in the air to see.

 

Got a few days warm enough and dry enough to get the bed sides completely stripped. Dug out my small HF sandbaster and cleaned up all the nooks and cranies I could not get with a stripping disc.



After a little final stripping I got a coat of Rust Restorer primer on one side of both. Have to get another can and hopefully get the other side primered tomorrow.

 

Maybe I'm missing something, but why are your rear shocks going forward at a 45° angle? Shocks are most effective in a vertical position, and you lose effectiveness the further you get? If there was a clearance issue maybe go with shorter shocks?

~Peter