Hello everyone, I just picked up this Ingersoll Rand SS3-GH on the cheap and was wondering if you could give me your thoughts on the rust it has. First off, I opened the drain petcocks and did not see anything foreign come out, so I suppose that's a good sign. And second, there is a very rusty looking bit of square tubing welded to the bottom of the frame. The previous owner told me that it was mounted to a truck body at one point. So that's why its completely rusted. Here are a few pictures: Here is the unit itself: Here is the petcock on the left tank: Same: Same: Same: The right side is not nearly as bad: Here is a funky looking weld on the right tank: Here is where the left tank is welded to the frame: And the right tank's weld to the frame:
have it media blasted. That will tell you about the integrity. The rusty square tubing probably has two contributing factors...poor, if any, paint and exposure to road salt.
Take the petcocks out completely; then if there's still nothing coming out, stick a thick wire or drill bit into the hole. If all is clear, make sure the valve will let liquid through when opened before re-installing.
What do you plan to use the compressor for,around here this type of compressor is used for construction work,nail guns and such. HRP
I would be much more concerned with determining the internal condition of the tanks; if they are good inside then take care of the outside.
Mostly minor stuff. Air up tires, blow off dirt / debris. Occasional use of an impact gun. The machine right now has the cut off set for 90 PSI, so I don't see it getting more than that.
I have rewelded cracks in these things where the brackets are welded on. No problem so far, but would not do it for someone else. I also saw one that a friend welded back together that failed. No big explosion, but it did make a significant noise.
I would cut it up for iron. I had one that I bought new and it was always drained and kept inside. Very little sign of rust until one day I turned it on and after a few minutes of runing the bottom of the tank let go. The explosion was so violent that it blew me about 10 feet, broke the shelves out of a cuppboard that was hanging on the wall, blasted my legs and feet with sand (took about six months before I got that healed up), and scared the heck out of my wife. I have a new respect for old compressers.
I have one that I use for anything I need air away from my shop, it's been used for tires and sand in and general all around use. When I go to get parts off if something it's much nicer to have air tools. Also the first thing that goes in the truck to resume vehicles. It's an air compressor not a nuclear warhead....there's lots of old ones still in service. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
the expensive part is the running gear which you can transfer to a ASME certified tank , and they are not too expensive to buy new and with the plates welded on . and you can increase the tank capacity and pressure too . but make sure the new tank has the Boiler plate welded to it as foreign ones we find fake the plates and inspection ( you can run the numbers on them to make sure they are code . ) and also check your safety valve to see if its releases at its specified pressure too .
I took the petcocks out and shoved my phone up to the holes and took these pics. Not much, but gives some idea. The left tank has a weird rust trail you can see in the bottom left of the second picture. This appears to go in conjunction with where they welded on the handle. Here is the right tank: And here is the left tank:
Take it somewhere and have the tanks pressure tested. They test using water so if there is a failure the tank will just crack and not explode. There is a lot of energy stored with compressed air but since water doesn't compress there is no energy stored that you have to worry about. Charlie Stephens
there yo go have them hydro tested , its not too expensive , My welding cylinders are $50 ea but thats a 2500 pound cert . some welding supply shop should be able to direct you to one .
Id look around for a 7-10 gallon oilless compressor and swap the pump and motor onto it. The oilless 120v motors burn out pretty frequently and you can pick them up in the classifieds for a few bucks. Extend the mounting area without welding on the tank. The pump and motor you have are made to cycle on and off continuously all day. Look for a burnt up version of this, just search 120v compressor. http://m.sears.com/craftsman-7-gall...1x000001&kpid=00915364000&kispla=00915364000P
I would give it a quick sandpaper and wire brush treatment and paint it with 2 or 3 coats of Rustoleum then put it to work. How much pressure do you need? If you are nervous set the regulator low, you should be able to do everything you want with no more than 50 PSI. I have seen tanks way rustier than that and they went on for years.
I've seen threads on the Garage Journal (sister site of HAMB) that describe do it yourself at home pressure testing using water and a grease gun. Basically you fill the tank with water, add a plug drilled with a grease zerk, and pump it up. Do some searching there for the full story, and save yourself some money.
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