A 5.2 head and "B" cam aren't enough of a change to justify the two 94 carbs. You can do it, it will run. But you will have low end troubles and use a lot more fuel then you need to. As far as the lower end is concerned, I don't think you will have much luck mixing and matching parts here. Find the engine assembly that has the best looking bearings and best looking cylinder walls. If both are equal, use the one with the most shims under the bearing caps. thoroughly inspect the center main bearing. Cracks or mushrooming of this bearing is a bad sign. Use an aluminum timing gear and adjustable lifters with a base dia. of at least 1.125". Probably a good idea to lap the valves at this time too. If you do use the dual 94 set up, do yourself a favor and change out the power valves. the stock ones are designed to work with higher vacuum then what you will be dealing with. . .
Thanks CDO, this is what I was looking for! That will save me from rebuilding 2 Holley 94s! Now, does anyone have a single carb intake they would like to trade for a dual carb unit? Anyone?
Model A engine reference books, I am about to start assembling my engine, is there any good reference books still available or available to download? My engine will be full insert with standard oiling system with early 28 non counterbalanced crank.
I like Les Andrews' Model A Ford mechanics handbook volume I. http://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A91024A.html .
Rich you pick up Les Andrews book from Keith at Ballan just down the road from you or Dave at Ballarat Always see them at any swap meet
I got around to pulling the pan off of the second motor. Here's what I found... Cylinder 1 rod journal Cylinder 2 rod journal Cylinder 3 rod journal And this was in the wind age tray It doesn't look promising to me, but is this normal? Posted using the HAMB app on my iPhone.... How's that for traditional!?!?
After doing stirling service running down to Wales for a weeks holiday, racing on Pendine Sands, and a faultless drive home, the Tourer was pressed into service yesterday for a short sedate trip into town…
Hey guys! I've got a real head scratcher.. I just had a loss of oil pressure running my 4 banger at high RPM, 5 grand (of which it is designed). I shut down quickly, with no banging, clattering or seizing. I first figured I broke a drive belt to my external oil pump . Belt was good. Checked the oil pump. It was pushing oil. The oil gauge and capillary line checked o.k.. I was getting oil from the two supply lines to each end of the oil gallery. I hooked up my nitrogen bottle to the line that runs up to my OHV head and put 5 to 10 pounds of pressure into the oil gallery. I could hear the roar of the gas in the crankcase, took the filter off the vent/filler and felt the nitrogen escaping from the crankcase. Ah ha! I figured the gasket on the side cover had been breached and the pressure was being released through the tappet box into the crankcase. I pulled the cover and replaced the gasket. When I hooked up the gas bottle and put the pressure to it...No cigar! It's still pressurizing the crankcase. The only thing I can figure is that, somehow a casting weak point or crack in one of the mainbearing webs has developed, allowing the pressure to be vented out of the main gallery. Any ideas before I pull the car and engine apart?
OD, How does the oil get to the main bearings? If you are using the stock B oil passages, then it is possible that the oil tubes that feed the mains have split. You would have to pull the pan to find out. If there is tubing feeding the "Extra" bearings, then there could be a broken line or fitting there. .
Actually, the Wife found it for me. I still had to pay up though. Don't get me wrong, happy to pay for it. Yes, Mod A axles and driveline. The fellow who started the conversion after snapping off the crank was quite ambitious. Sadly to report not being able to finish it. It is in nice enough shape to just finish the conversion and drive. Well maybe change the brakes to juice......... John
The oil gets to the mains through passages bored into the webs. I'm thinking that a main cap may have come loose. Puzzles me though in that case, that I don't hear any noise from them. The car is up on the trailer to go to an old racer's shop tomorrow. I'm thinking that he's going to tell me the same thing you said: "pull the pan!' Thanks for the input...
Newbie to this discussion forum, but not a newbie to bangers. Been playing with bangers off and on since high school back in the 50's. Both flathead and OHV converted. Getting too old to build another from scratch, so just bought the 30 coupe in my avatar. Pro built flathead banger with 37 trans & rear end.
− Quote Good to see you here nice looking car but I do wonder how long till you are fully involved and have the motor out to play with it its a bug and I think you may have it.
personally i would skip the b cam and put a stipe cam in instead. way better cam and you are already planing on changing it anyway tk
Thanks for the welcome Russ Tee. I'm still learning to negotiate H.A.M.B. As soon as I figure everything out, I'll post pics of the engine and give specifics on the build. Back in the mid 50's thru early 60's a buddy and I ran a 2 port Cragar in a 30 roadster at the old Colton drag strip, and later at Fontana. At the same time I was running a Fargo 4 port B in a 28 sport coupe as my every day driver. Still using a broken piston out of that B as an ashtray. Ahh, the good old days of broken engines and transmissions.
OD, charging the oil system with Nitrogen will fill crankcase and vent through breather even if all the lines are intact and working properly. The question is how much. Before pulling pan, and this should be done, period, is the possibility of checking oil system with oil, not air. The gauge could be fouled, try another or the pump is not building/maintaining pressure. John
This be my banger. Plastic jugs over the Scott tops to keep dust out. 000E2084 by Jakesrocks posted Jul 21, 2014 at 2:36 PM 000_2077 by Jakesrocks posted Jul 21, 2014 at 10:33 AM
The Jalopy Journal
