Technical I think I went too low…40 ford 5 window

Dang that’s sexy

 

Easy to measure the wheels. Make two pieces of wood to go from just under the lip of the rim, put one on the front and one on the rear of the rim. Use a tape measure through the center hole of the rim, it will get you real close...it will be just over what the rim is, but under the next size.

If you go back to drum, use a complete set up from a 1953-56 Ford F100 (backing plates and hubs).

 

I love the stance on this, please don’t change it. If you are dead set on discs Roadster Supply offers a “narrow” front setup that has 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern. The website didn’t specify how narrow but a call to Ian would clear that up quickly. Good luck and great job on your build.

 

Can you roll the fenders?

It's a pretty old school trick and still common oval track trick to gain tire clearance all you need is a baseball or softball ball.

 

remember also, if somethin doesn't scrape, it's not low enuf.
I think your coupe sits perfect, love the wheel color also.

 

JFYI, there were/are two '40 Ford coupes; a Business coupe, and a Coupe-5 window, per Ford Motor Co.

 

https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/1940-Ford-Style-Book.pdf

 

of course they are out of the one I need! Maybe I’ll go this route. Do y’all really think if I go narrower with new brakes it will mostly fix my issue? Do they narrow 1” per side or 1” total?

is there a way to tell if my disc brakes are in fact the wider style? Or is it safe to assume they all are (unless I specifically order narrowed disc brakes)?

I’d rather not roll the fenders if I don’t have too.

 

The Coupe 5-window was also referred to as the Ford V8. Mike Kubarth's "It's Ford for '40" is the most accurate source for '40 Ford info to date, including some vintage dealer promos.

 

The only way to tell if your disks are moving your track width out is to measure the mounting surface to a fixed point, then install the stock drums and measure to the same point. MOST disk kits will add an inch per side, but not all.

Your car is cool as hell, by the way.

-Abone.

 

Maybe I’ll try to put the stock brakes on and see what happens. I was REALLY happy I didn’t have to worry about getting the front drums off (because I took the original axle/brakes out all as one unit). But I guess I can’t avoid taking it apart. I guess I know what I’m doing g today.

question…I put new spindles on when I did the disc brakes. Is a spindle a spindle meaning can I use the new spindle on my drum experiment or will I have to swap the og spindle too?

 

Mine has a narrower axle and spring with a much smaller tire and it still drags the fender a bit. As long as you still have the rolled lip, it won't hurt those $$$ bias plys to rub a little.



-Abone.

 

Is it an optical illusion or just my weak eyes, but it looks like the front tires are bigger than the rear tires? I'd try to find out just whats different between the wide/narrow disc set-ups. Might be a small modification will make yours work.

 

As long as the spindles are a stock style 28-48 spindle, they all should be the same.

-Abone.

 

I personally would wait and see if it's a problem after you get some miles on it. My '40 appears to have about the same amount of tire clearance between the top of the front tire and wheel well, and it doesn't rub. I don't have a photo handy, but I've had a few people comment that they like the stance. I really like the way yours sits.

 

Eh, there is no “trying” it out right now. The driver side is so bad if I force the wheel to turn much more than about 1/4 turn, it would damage the fender.

Why would my driver side be 3/4” lower? The passenger side isn’t as bad and the driver side is definitely 3/4” lower.

 

Maybe try resetting the ubolts for the axle. You possibly could have the left side honked down a little more. Just a thought.

 

How much do you weigh?

 

Good point on axle u bolts. I tightened one side and it helped. Not perfect but better for sure.

I put the original front drum backing plate and drum on (one side only for now). Then the wheel. No change. Damn!

I’m starting to suspect wheels. I eyeball measured them (with tire on rim but off of car so not perfect) and from very outter rim to outer rim is 5.5”. I’m assuming this means it’s the 4.5” wheel?

 

Looking good man!

 

Measuring king pin to king pin is easy. Use a straight edge and drop a straight line to the floor. Use chalk or tape to mark it. Do the same on the other side and measure the distance between them.

 

perfect example of when my overthinking goes wrong. Thanks man!

 

Even if they are the 4.5” wheels, switching to the 4” would probably only get the sidewall in a 1/4”. And won’t change the edge of the tread any where the scraping happens.

 

maybe your front sheetmetal isn't square on the body...?

 

That sounds like the most likely reason for one side too close.

 

I always thought they were the exact same body but the business coupe didn't have jump seats in back.

 

Not a 40, no matter.
Exhibit A as parked.
Ryan Reeds' 37.


As driven, HARD

 

The exteriors are the same, but floors and rear bracing are different for the rear jump seats in the business coupe.

 

I welded 3/8 rod into the fender well opening , dropped it in from the inside and tacked it every inch or so. worked good the tires rubbed some but didn't bend the fenders