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Technical FRAME, basic frame fabrication condensed version

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Paul, Dec 8, 2005.

  1. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    bolted the mount to the transmission
    and bolted the tab to the mount

    set a chunk of tube on the tab
    with the ends cut to the proper angle
    and made a pattern for the flanges

    fabbed up four flanges out of 1/4" plate,
    bolted them together with some 7/16" bolts
    clamped it all to the table

    and welded it all up

    transmission mount 008.jpg transmission mount 010.jpg transmission mount 012.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  2. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    then trimmed the ends of the tubes to fit the rails

    and clamped it to the mount tab

    tacked the tube to both the frame and the tab

    removed the center tube with tab attached
    and welded it up

    after it had cooled it was all bolted back together

    and rolled outside for pictures

    transmission mount 013.jpg transmission mount 015.jpg transmission mount 017.jpg transmission mount 020.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 and hendelec like this.
  3. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    one month of a few hours here and there later...

    and here it is for it's first rollout
    suspension tacked and motor and transmission mounts in

    transmission mount 027.jpg transmission mount 031.jpg transmission mount 038.jpg
     
  4. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    today I made a new X member for the Model A frame I've been working on

    I used 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 x .120 rectangle tubing
    again probably over kill but I want this frame strong,
    strong enough that I can count on it not flexing excessively
    even if I put some real horse power to it

    first is to lift the body off again,

    it's been on and off a dozen times by now

    here's the round tube from Pete and Jakes that will get replaced
    and the new transmission mount that will get tied in to the new X member

    the round tube gets replaced first,
    so I layed out the rectangle piece that will replace it

    center cross member 004.jpg center cross member 002.jpg center cross member 003.jpg center cross member 005.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  5. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    then get busy and forget to pick up the camera till all the pieces are cut and tacked :rolleyes:

    I ran two straight legs back almost to the rear kick,
    parallel with the ladders

    and two pieces straight forward, parallel with the centerline of the frame
    that angle out to the rails just behind the forward kick
    this should leave enough room for clutch linkage
    and provide a solid structure for the floor to attach to

    below the straight legs I ran two short pieces verticaly to tie the transmission cross member to the X member

    then cut the tabs from the Pete and Jake tube and tacked them to the new rectangle cross piece

    center cross member 006.jpg center cross member 012.jpg
     
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  6. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    and there it is,

    all tacked together

    and body set back on

    center cross member 017.jpg center cross member 019.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  7. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    one more view..

    it is starting to look like a damn street rod

    maybe the next one will be made out of all stock frame parts,
    cut and modified to look like they came that way...

    ..at least all this structural iron will get covered up with Ford steel

    center cross member 013.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    fwiw;

    this car will get an Ansen swing set on the firewall
    with Chevy truck master and slave

    6-26-05 025.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    minor adjustment to the center cross piece today

    it was looking like a tight fit for the forward U joint
    so I fabbed up a little bump and tacked 'er in

    first took the same 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 x .120 material the rest of the X member was made of

    and sliced it on the chop saw through three sides every half inch for six or so inches

    then it gets pinched with a pipe clamp

    welded solid

    and ground smooth

    center x member bump 001.jpg center x member bump 002.jpg center x member bump 003.jpg center x member bump 004.jpg
     
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  10. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    then it gets trimmed

    the cross member gets layed out for hacking

    and the new section gets tacked in

    center x member bump 006.jpg center x member bump 007.jpg center x member bump 008.jpg
     
    Tim, Sergeant82d and kidcampbell71 like this.
  11. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    that looks better,

    should be just enough room to clear the joint

    center x member bump 013.jpg center x member bump 014.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  12. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    I decided on the Vega box
    and found Art Morrison carries them
    they are right nearby so an hour later
    I have one.

    I didn't take any pictures of the first step
    but..

    I figured the best spot to mount the box,

    it takes three bolts
    one will go through the frame rail
    and two will attach to a bracket
    mounted below the frame

    I drilled a 3/4" hole through both sides of the frame rail
    stuck a length of tube through the rail,
    protruding 1/2" on the inside
    and welded it, both inside and out

    and bolted the box to the rail

    if you stand in the right spot you can hardly see it :rolleyes:

    steering box 002.jpg steering box 004.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    I heated both aftermarket steering arms
    and pitman arm
    and bent them to get everything where it needs to be

    I want just enough clearance between the tie rod and wish bones
    the drag link parallel with the tie rod
    and none of it hanging down dangerously low..

    you can see it needs a bracket to accept the two lower bolts

    it gets layed it out on some 1/4" plate,
    cut with the plasma cutter
    cleaned up and
    drilled
    I also cut two 1/2" lengths of the same tube I stuck through the frame

    which by the way was some left over F100 steering shaft
    3/4 od and 7/16 id, perfect for the job
    never throw anything away :)

    steering box mount 003.jpg steering box mount 006.jpg steering box mount 008.jpg steering box mount 009.jpg steering box mount 011.jpg
     
  14. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    bolted it to the box
    and tacked it to the frame

    steering box mount 012.jpg steering box mount 016.jpg
     
  15. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    the tab needs a brace

    so I hacked a chunk of 2x tubing

    and tacked it in place

    steering box mount 018.jpg steering box mount 019.jpg steering box mount 020.jpg
     
    brEad, Chucky, volvobrynk and 4 others like this.
  16. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,194

    manyolcars

    Awesome thread. Thank you for the effort
     
  17. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 768

    Chavezk21
    Member

    Nice work. Thanks for the tutorial. You make it look easy.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  18. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Great workmanship! Well thought out and nicely done. Thank you for sharing.

    Ray
     
    volvobrynk and lothiandon1940 like this.
  19. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    Thanks, nice step by step, tapered rails look much better than straight.
     
  20. I am so tempted to build a similar frame for my 30 pickup. Do you think .120 wall would be strong enough to attach the running board and fender braces to?
    Thanks for the tech.
    Terry aka dirt t
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  21. hendelec
    Joined: Aug 23, 2008
    Posts: 100

    hendelec
    Member

    How much does the frame weigh.......It looks very stout!!!!!
     
    Dane Falardeau likes this.
  22. SicSpeed
    Joined: Apr 23, 2014
    Posts: 656

    SicSpeed
    Member
    from Idaho

    That frame is looking good Paul.

    .120 would be plenty strong. Just be sure to weld in tubing for any through bolts.
     
  23. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I like your frame Paul, the best part you built it with basic tools that most of us have,good work. Frank
     
  24. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Fantastic thread! Simple, attractive, functional work. Subscribed!
     
  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Frameless Larry needs to see this :D
     
  26. low-n-slo54
    Joined: Jul 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,920

    low-n-slo54
    Member

    Very cool frame! How's the car holding up after nine years?
     
  27. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    thanks but unfortunately this project sold before I could finish it

    sold it to a guy who owns a body shop in Kingston.. or was it Keystone? WA last year..

    anyway, this is what it looked like the day we loaded it onto the trailer

    IMAG4253.jpg

    IMAG4255.jpg
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  28. dad-bud
    Joined: Aug 22, 2009
    Posts: 3,884

    dad-bud
    Member

    Paul, nice work on the frame. Very well thought out and executed.
    I've referred back to this chassis fab thread many times over the years and will definitely be using some of your 'techniques' myself.
    The use of 2 x 4 x 1/8" rectangular hollow section is much stronger than the good old original Henry chassis, and it needs to be with the torque produced by even a fairly bland SBC. Adding the double braced X-member adds further.
    On another note, it's interesting that your thread was resurrected after 9 years. I sure am glad that it has remained on the board through all these years.
    Thanks again for such an informative thread.
    Cheers.
     
  29. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,670

    bobbytnm
    Member

    Excellent thread!

    Thank you
    Bobby
     

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