Okay fellow HAMBERS I'm getting ready to fire-up my rebuilt motor and I'm looking for tips and tricks for break-in. Here is a little info on the build it is stroked and relieved block 40 over with stock pistons and rods with adjustable lifters. I have done some major porting on intake and exhust ports. The cam is a MAX 1 grind and adjustable lifters and dual valve springs( I know what some are gonna say not required and I should just shim up singles),heads are Wilson & Woods Bonniville Heads,Edelbrock triple tree intake with stock fuel pump running 2.5 pounds pressure. I'm running MSD Electronic Distributer with between 22 and 23 dgrees total So I guess what I'm wanting to know is what is the break-in time for the cam and at what RPM and is mt timing correct.I would also like to know what is acceptable oil pressure and engine tempature.Once break-in is complete I will be changing the oil and I would like to know how often oil is required to be changed I would also like to confirm that my chose for Oil will be 20/50 is acceptable. I think I have covered it all so any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks Joe
Sounds like a nice engine but I hope you meant stock type 40 over pistons! Im not familiar with those heads and just hope they are not too hi compression for the street. Also that you are sure of valve clearance. For break in use 30W non detergent and change at around 300 miles or when the rings seat. Then use a hi grade 20W50, I prefer Castrol GTX. Oil pressure should be around 40-50# hot at 1500 rpm if everything is set up correct. With no oil filter change every 1000 miles. With the stock filter do it at 1500 miles and 2500 with a full flow system. Oil is cheap compared to bearings. Timing is OK for starters and touch up as needed. Follow the Isky cam sheet for break in especially if using their springs or LZ type.
The fellow who did the machine work and build up fitment on my MOPAR flathead 6. 230 cu in, 30 over, 40 off the head, 10 off the deck, stock cam, fenton intake with dual CarterB1B's told me to get it up to temp retorque the head, then drive it like I stole it. Seems to have worked. Break in oil was 30 weight, changed to 10 40, 2500 miles no issues.
Yes I will be running stock pistons and as for compression 8.6 so should be vey good on streat as not too much. Chico
Theres a lot more guys with flathead experience on here than me, iv only started one fresh rebuilt flathead. I turned it over with the plugs out tell I had oil pressure. Then ran it at 2000 for 20 minuets with a fan blowing at the radiator. Shut it down, re torqued the heads and changed the oil and filter. Checked over everything and went for a spin. (big fuckin grin) 8ba 120 over 4" stroke max 1 8to1 edelbrocks super duel - two 97's mallory duel point drilled for oil filter under the intake PCV
I did a flathead some years ago ,and knowing it would develop a lot of heatwhen first fired, I kept a garden hose with cold water spraying against the radiator. Just keeping it cool, not soaking the motor. Helped keep the heat down.
Back in the '60s we asked the guy that did most of the machine work on our race engine what he recommended to break in the engine. He told us to just start racing it. Must have worked. We set the MPH record for our class with it. Sounds like "drive it like you stole it" would work.
My zero-tech priming technique: Add the last couple quarts of oil via a can hooked to a hose and pipe fitting into the rear oil port. It will take a while to dribble in...don't forget to put the plug back in. There's no way to tell if all passages are filled by this, but it gets me pressure on the gauge on first turn of starter and full pressure instantly on start. Also, fill the carb bowls through the vents to eliminate needless cranking. The Honest Charley catalog always used to carry a flathead tip in the margin--put in a quart extra with new cam to ensure plenty of splash! Lose the double springs--Fords would be OK, Zephyrs more than enough! Too much spring=cam wear, cam flexing, and wasted power. Especially bad on new engine startup!
Breakin; Check the oil and water. With the spark plugs out, crank it with starter until it gets good oil pressure. On first run, shut it down after it fires and look for loose stuff and leaks. On subsequent runs; run at about 2000rpm for a half-minute, then shut down and let cool completely. Do this all day. At the end of the day, change the oil. Never/never/never run it overheated. Even on the freeway, if the heat goes to the top, shut it down and pull over.
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