I think i am getting the hang of this. I really need some help though. I just converted my 235 from 6v to 12v and it is not firing. I replace the generator with a 12 alternator. I kept the starter the same. I have a 12v coil and I replaced the distributer, cap and rotor. The negative side of the coil is going to the distributer and positive to the alternator. I have the engine turn over pretty strongly but it does not fire. I have checked for spark from the number one cylinder spark plug test and I am not getting spark. My coil is reading good. Last time I tried to get it to crank I saw sparks coming from my starter so I stopped for now. Please if anyone can help I would sure appreciate the help.
Well for starters, you usually have the coil going to the ignition switch, but as far as sparks coming from the starter I'm guessing it's not a fan of being hooked up to 12V.
I have the positive end of the coil running to the alternator, negative to the distributer. I replaced the condenser with a 12v one. The engine is turning but it won't fire. I don't see spark when I do the number one cylinder spark plug test. I was told the problem may be the points but I don't know how to test them.
well ive got a 53 merc im converting and this is my set up. it starts and runs fine, i havent had a chance to check to see if its charging. i left the key on today and when i went back to work on it all the wires were melted also. so it may not be correct yeat, but i think im close.
Ok, let's back up here. Why is the power for the coil coming off the alternator? Like I said in my previous post, this is usually ran from the ignition switch to the coil (fused somewhere in between).
Shiro...nico32 is right. The wire on the pos. side of the coil should not be connected to the alternator...needs to be hooked into a pos. feed. Try this first...hook a jumper wire from the pos. side of the battery to the pos. side of the coil. Then try to start it. No need to crank the shit out of it...don't cook your starter...it should fire right away. Don't leave the jumper-wire connected for long. If it doesn't fire, pull the points, and make sure the spring is still "springy", and able to close the points as it should. Sometimes, if they get too hot, the spring gets fxcke up. Re-gap the points, make sure they're clean at the contact surface.
When you hooked the coil to the alternator, you fed it constant 12 volts, points were probably closed. By the time you turned the key, they were burned.
I just did this (nearly) exact conversion two weeks ago and ended up with the EXACT problem. Got it solved that same day, so here's how mine's wired. I converted my 239 flathead to 12-volt, neg ground with a one-wire alternator and the Pertronix ignition. (I'll skip the starter solenoid wiring info since I'm guessing you have that wired correctly.) So anyway, on mine I have the black wire out of the distrib to the neg post on the coil, (and the red wire out of the distrib to the pos post on the coil, which you don't have because you're running points, so never mind this part, I just wanted to be clear) And Because my alt is a "one-wire", I have one 6-gauge wire going from the post on the back of the alternator to the large post on the starter solenoid, same one that the positive battery cable is connected to. Since you have an alternator now, you probably have a few extra wires, three or four I would guess...well, one of those wires is the one you will need to connect to your positive post on your coil to get spark... SO, there is a wire coming out of that wire harness,(that same group of wires that went to your generator) that comes from the ignition switch that carries 12 volts when your key is in the "on" position, and carries no volts when your key is in the off position. In my experience, it was the longest wire. Check to make sure that wire carries the current as described with a multi-meter or a test light, otherwise once your car is running, it won't shut off, if that wire carries current all the time with the key in the on AND off position. So now that you've found that wire and know for sure that it only carries current when the key is in the "on" position, connect that wire to the positive post of your coil, tape up the other ones again if you're not using them and that should take care of it. Instant spark. You may have to check your points as 1950chevysuburban said as well...I don't know what running that alt wire to the coil would do to them... Now since my alternator is internally regulated (don't know if yours is or not), I have no need for a voltage regulator to be mounted on the driver's-side inner fender...ditched it completely and taped up and tied back those wires as well. She fires right up every time now. As for the sparkes from your starter...is the wire that's going to it from your solenoid touching anything else? exhaust manifold burn through it and grounding out/arcing or something? Even check to see that the connection is tight. I still have the same 6 volt starter and that works perfectly fine on 12 volts, it should for a very long time. Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any questions about anything I've typed above...I do have some good pics in my profile of what I've described above, but I can get some more pics to you too if need be.
I appreciate the info and the help, and I have had no success. I went ahead and just drew up a diagram of my wiring. Maybe someone can tell me where I am going wrong.
For starters, your power wire for your coil should go to the IGN side of your ignition switch (I think I've mentioned that 3 times now) with a fuse somewhere in between. The diagram from nox outlined that as well. Let's start with that and see what you get from there.
Oh man i dont know where to begin. This is for sure, the yellow wire from alternator to coil is wrong. Coil gets its power fron the ign. switch from the ign. terminal. That should get it started but you have a whole lot of wire clean up to do. Google basic auto wireing and study diagrams. Theres to much to sort out here in just a few words.
Here, follow this. You can ignore the resistance wire off the coil power and the blue wire going from the coil to the starter. The rest of it has you covered.
I got spark! It was just as you guys said, so thanks guys. My engine almost turned over completely. I still have fuel issues. The engine will ignite if I pour gas in the carb. I am sure this is all to familiar. I just purchased a vacuum pump fuel pump combination and I am not sure how the vacuum part of this pump is connected. My car is currently connected with the fuel pump only. I don't have a vacuum pump. I need to know how this combination pump needs to have the vacuum pump / lower part of the pump connected. Just some FYI, the pump has windshield inscribed on it with in and out ports. Can some one help me out with out.
The vaccumm pump is for vacuum wipers. if you have electric, just leave it disconnected. The 6 volt starter will work fine on 12volts (Mine's been going for 5 years now), but don't crank the crap out of it- if it does'nt fire within a few seconds, you have other problems.
Are you trying to run a 12 generator type regulator? Alternator regulators do not supply the battery from them as does a generator regulator. They merely check the voltage out of the alternator and control the field for voltage regulation. The alternator has a big terminal, which goes directly to the battery (and is 12 gauge minimum wire), and two small terminals, F and R. F is the field terminal to the regulator, and R is the voltage sense terminal to the regulator. The regulator does go to the battery (for exciting the field that is controlled by the regulator. And of course both are grounded. The rest of the diagram looks to be correct except for NO BALLAST RESISTOR to the coil.
In addition to having power with the key in the "on" position, make sure that it also has power on it when the key is in the "Start" position. One other thing, make sure that you either have a coil with an internal resistor, or are running an external ballast resistor to keep from burning up your points.
Run a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the in port on the pump. The out port runs to the vacuum wipers. It boosts the vacuum when the engine is under a load. It helps to keep the wipers from stalling on long uphill grades when the vacuum is reduced. If you are running the vacuum wiper motor, hook it up. I'm going to hook up mine. I actually like the odd look of the dual action fuel pump.
Put two of those vacuum line caps on the two vacuum ports. That way no dirt in it. You can get those vacuum line caps at most parts houses.
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