Hey I got a 1928 Chevy frame and cowl, thats gonna be my first Real Hot Rod. And i've been looking for some desent Axels for it. Low and behold, a 41 chevy coupe undercarrige comes up for sale; give me a fair offer, and come and collect. It looks damb good. Semi gloss Black on most things, rear end with torque tube with springs 6 lug, three speed for collum shifter, for red steel wheel 6 lug with ww and a complete front end with what apears to be most/all acc/small parts. I dident See collum and shifter. How hard would it be to adapt those parts to my frame? I'm thinking about pulling brakes off and mount on my spindels, or mayby swap spindels all together? What is the rear end width? What is the spring width? Would a 1941 chevy have pedals on gearbox or frame? How fare off would the wheelbase be? Is the 41 rear any good? What is the most likely Diff ratio for a car with a 216? Any thoughts? Any advice?
A friend built a 31 chevy with later truck chassis parts, it came out pretty nice. 41-46 front axle and steering, 51-59 front brakes, 41-46 rear axle housing with an open driveline 55 truck 3.90 third member, and a Packard trans behind the 302 GMC motor. But if you're going to run a 216 then you can probably get by with the earlier brakes. 37-50 brakes are mostly the same, and the truck brakes might be easier to adapt to the axle front suspension? but the 41 car brakes would probably work too. 41 cars usually had 4.11 rear gears.
I'm planing on using a Volvo B30 165hp/181 straight six. Might convert it too carb. Its the one we talked about in my FI conversion threat. You gave some good advise on that one too. But this 41 chevy looks like a knee action suspension, so I have no clue too how much will work with with I beam. I'm still in doubt too If I wants to run TT or open end conversion. I got a full syncro 4speed, that came with the B30. But I like the look of three on the tree, but the feel of the 4 speed is great.
You can probably bolt the front brake backing plates to the original 28 spindles, although you may have to do some frabrication. I don't know if the 28 wheel bearings are the same size as the 41. I've never played with a Chevy that old!
Here is the pictures from the add. That not knee action, my bad. Very few people plays around with that old chebys
the problem with putting the later spindles on that early axle is the kin pin size. you might be able to use thicker bushings in the spindles. '41 pedals mount to the frame. cool project good luck!
looks like they cut the steering column? That front end is called "knee action" by some folks, although it's the same suspension used from 39-48, and is not the early 35-38 "knee action" that didn't work very well. I'm pretty sure you can't use the 41 spindles on the solid axle, as the king pin inclination angle is different, and the king pins are way different sizes
I thought they removed collum and inner rod. To remove it from the body, or mayby to keep collum and shifter with the new set up. I think I met the seller at a car "show" (more a show up with you car deal) he had the sweatest ride! Maroon coupe, traditional hotrod dont to the blue dots and flipper caps. He clamid it to 100 procent Stock except tires. He wanted to go tourqe trust/American Racing, 350/350hp, with th350 and 3.50 third member rear. All disc, with booster and M2 TCI front weld series. Also a modern rack steering. But guys like that make me cry, but also make me so happy when I buy there scrap. :-/ Is the Brakes better then mine? Does the spindel stud unbolt from the rest of the spindel, with this set up? We Call this Dual wishbone set up. And the 35-36 for knee action.
28 brakes are mechanical, 37-50 brakes are hydraulic Huck type, 51-up brakes are the Bendix self energizing design which is better. I don't know what is "good enough" for you. I bet that steering shaft is cut off, it is one piece with the gear, so he would have had to take the box apart to remove the shaft intact. Pretty common when building a street rod, to cut off the column above the box, and adapt it to the newer steering setup.
On your brakes ... First take drums off your new front and your old now measure the distance of your spindles your old spindles are going to have to be close ... That will tell you if adapting is possibility ... If your good there mixing and matching bearings and spacers will be your next hurdle ..
I respect you post, but my dilemma is; Shall I buy the whole deal, or only rear end, wheels and gearbox. If I had all the parts, I wouldent ask you guy If it fits, I would try If it fits. NO disrespect! The money is a little tight, I dont wonna buy all this stuff if I dont need too. The firm I work for is shutting down the plant I work at, by the end of june 15. My wife is pregnant, boy this time and Girl age 3, and I'm spokesman for the skilled workers, so I'm exspected too stay till the end. So I'm looking of some un-employment time, so I'm gonna need some think to do when off, for my "therapy work". So any miles of answer is apriated! Is the box any good? an i better of getting truck front end with 6lug hub and bolt it straight on?
Oh, I see well... If its local just ask seller if you can take the drum off to measure... If I were selling it I wouldn't have a problem with that...
Thirty two; I respect your answer, and I dont want to come of a D1CK. I just wanted to clearify why I keep asking, semi stupid questions. That might end up being the final answer, to my dilemma.
You mentioned you were considering converting to open drive and later 4 spd, is that even possible with a Chev torque tube rear?
I would skip all that stuff, save your money for parts to build what you have, use the money to buy a modern open rear from another common car, so you can use the volvo motor and 4 speed and have modern rear gear ratio and modern (cheaper) brakes. A lot less hassle, a lot more reliable and your motoring sooner.
"A lot less hassle, a lot more reliable and your motoring sooner." Good advice times two. Several of the guys above know chevy forward and backward and are giving you the straight scoop. I have played with them for years and the early ones are inherently difficult for a beginner to mess with, no offense. The straight axle is okay to retain and have several new options available. The drive train is marginal even in 41 and you can go much simpler and cheaper by just finding a decent ford 8 inch or equivalent and end up with Auto Zone parts and a superior braking and tough rear end the correct width. My two pesos . Good luck and enjoy yourself without beaking the bank. It will get you on the road quicker. Larry
Okay, Sound advise. I've been weighing my options, and thinking about doing Pathfinder/King cab rear. Truck front axel and my 1946 chevy truck pedal set up on my gearbox. But my wheel options is quiet scares. I've got the 1928/29 plate wheels, but I want a more late-40 Dry Lake look. These wouldent be "the right stuff", or em I wrong? I like the spurgin/givonine car. And wants the first look with the two front springs. But Mayby a updated with a "six in a row for go". But I will have to keep frame stock, for MOT . Not mine, but you get the drift.
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