Projects Border Bandits Gas class builds to the Southeast Gassers rules.

Yea your set up would work just fine and actually I started doing it like that if u look at the frame down by my pedals I have the tube welded through the frame to do it like yours. I changed my mind a few weeks ago wanted to do something a little different so I dug out my stock pedals and started chopping lol

 

Would the pedal swinging as to pushing have more to do with ones driving style or more to do with making room?

 

I have drove both and can't tell any difference. Both ways are era correct, all the petals were under the floor in the early 50s. I just hate a z bar and don't want the master cylinder in the way on the fire wall is the reason I do them the way I do. But you would never know the difference setting in the seat.

 

Makes sense
And I do like the simplicity of your setup.

 

I'm lazy I always try and find the easy way LOL.

 

Where's the updates????

 

Saw a timeslip on the Meltdown thread. Someone was going pretty fast.

 

I'm working on headers rite now on the ford. Had to make a die to to D shape the tube to match the port in the head. I was at the track on sat with the coupe ran a 9.93 @143mph first pass second pass went 9.90 @ 138mph had a lean pop just before the traps so that's y the mph is off would have went faster. Had issues rest of the day made 2 more 10.0 passes then the car died at the line will only idle has a fuel delivery issue I think gonna change the pump and see if it fixes it checked everything else I could think of at the track car just won't rev up falls flat on its face when u stab it.

 

I mocked up the front axle brackets and hairpins, then tacked them together. Normally I would have just burned the brackets on, but I decided that a tig bead would look cleaner. I tig weld at work, but on nothing more than an 1/8" thick material, so I dropped it off at Jefferys and had him burn them on.

 

Tonight I put the spindles and brake rotors on...the drilled and slotted rotors look gayer than a bag of fake dicks, but they came with the kit, and were a good deal. I will be switching to a set of standard rotors for final assembly.

 

Good looking axle where did it come from. I like the gentle bends instead of the real sharp bends at the very end like the speedway stuff.. Yours looks like a copy of an old Don Long axle.

 

It's a new old stock MAS axle that I bought from the classifieds...I bought it for the same reason you like it. It looks more correct than what's available today....it's also wider than speedway sells 51" kp to kp and only a 2.5" drop.

 

Not sure if you noticed Kip, but those brakes look gayer than a bag of fake dicks.., just kidding man, use what you have now, and change em out as you can. We all know where your heart & head are at buddy.

 

Where did you get the brackets for the axle? Looks cool

 

The brackets are from speedway and the hairpins are from the Panneton Bros.

 

Thanks

 

One header all tacked together building them from scratch just a bunch of random bends cutting and welding together. All the tubes are pretty close to exactly the same length. They start with 2" then step up to 2 1/8" then to 2 1/4. The engine builder is Lance Line at Line performance he gave me the specs to get it pretty close for the motor. I have a buddy that Is a mechanical engineer so he drew them all up on his computer software first to make sure they were exact. Not sure if it makes to much of a difference but I atleast tried. The drawing made it easy gave me the degrees and length the tube needed to be. Was hoping to make greer but it's not gonna happen this year. The motor is breaking the bank and I don't want to rush anything on the car so I decided to just wait til spring and bring it out totally complete no loose ends.

 

That's cheating using a computer design. Very nice looking work and it does make a difference when the tubes are the same length. If for no other reason they look right to someone that knows what a tuned header should look like. I've seen some that claim to know how to build headers with the tubes just run the best route and be 5" different.

 

Jeff that's some nice work right there. Why do you increase pipe size as you go? I had a buddy who owned a muffler shop and he said the gases cool and get smaller as they go. He would start at a 3" pipe and end at the back of the car with 2.5" or 2". Is it different near the head?

 

I'm not exactly sure the reason for doing that. But I know all the expensive headers u buy are all stepped headers. I never would have guessed I needed to end with a 2 1/4" pipe though we were thinking smaller like start with 1 7/8" and go to 2" and that's it. But lance asked me all the specs and did some math for me and told me roughly how long to make each section and a total length to shoot for and said these should be pretty close to optimal performance. So I just did what he said. The tricky part was the port starts out D shaped. So I made a die to pound in the end of the pipe to make it match the port. It's kinda a pain to do but turned out great in the end. I'll post a pic of that tonight.

 

When the pipe size increases it causes a vacuum before the end of the charge to help scavenge the cylinder and cool the cylinder on the cam overlap. Tube length also has a vacuum on the tail end of the exhaust before it exits the tube. That's one reason length is important. If the length is different one cylinder is happy at low speed while some of the others are happy at high speed. Also the tubes should go into the collector in firing order to help each other. Really getting complicated now.
Ric P can explain this a lot better to where it would make more sense, i can't get it into the right words.

 

Usually exhaust velocity/scavenging is better when you reduce diameter in length. ..at least it showed more power in the 30 r so engines ive had dynoed

 

Beautiful craftsmanship either way

 

The ol' negative pressure pulse(vacuum) during valve overlap is the aim, at least what I've heard.
Here is some reading:

http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/exhaust_system_technology.htm

 

I went past the point of no return tonight...

 

I saved the stock front frame horns...since this is going to have the Ford style front suspension I don't need heavy tubing all the way out front for strength.

 

I have the tail pan and fin area panels in and rough ground. I also made the front frame rails. I hope to pull the body off and carry the Frame into the shop so I can start working on the chassis.

 

Another stock Tri-5 front clip headed where it belongs.., IN THE SCRAP HEAP, THAT'S WHERE!

 

Ya'll boys better get to busting ass, we expect y'all at the first race next spring!