Hi Aulis! If you're using that late Merc crank and it has 2.00 journals, then you'll need the 91A or 21A rods from 1939-1942. Make sure you fit the full-floater bearings correctly to have clearances and no drag on both sides of them (crank and rod). The blower that you have will probably make 5 - 7 lbs of boost. The stock pulley will overdrive it a bit (can't remember how much!). The two Stromberg 48's will work out just fine for what you're doing. If you're looking for torque, then don't run too big of a cam - as it will hurt your lower-end and torque . . . it won't do you much good unless you're over 4,000 RPM. Which cams do you have to choose from? Let us know. The Ross pistons are rated for about 5 lbs of boost - as long as you don't run it too hard and don't detonate it or run it too lean, you should be okay. Flywheel: Depending on how light of a car you are putting it in, tire size and what rear end ratio, you may want to rethink that Weber aluminum flywheel. I used to run them on my SCoT blown motor - sounded good, but was a real pain to get away from a stop-light (too light). I had to slip the dang clutch all the time. You'll be much happier with about a 20 - 24 lb steel flywheel in most situations. Keep us posted - if you need anything, let me know. B&S
Hello, My english is not so good, so after Sauna I need to take big cup of coffee and read it slowly,...twice,.. I use new SCAT (china) rods and those are for 2" Buick bearings. 7psi boost (0,5bar) sounds good. What do You think about this block. Is cylinder wall thickness OK after I have bored and honed it so big? I just took few pics AULIS
I think you should hit yourself with some pine bows to get the circulation going, cut a hole in the ice, jump in the water, have 2 cups of coffee - then try to read my writing! I'm 1/2 Finn - from a Finn family culture that is very strong . . . the women rule the whole thing! Those rods should work out - about the same price as finding early rods and getting them setup. If you have a 3 5/16 bore, you should be okay. I sonic test most of my blocks - boring to 3 5/16 has always worked just fine. What cams do you have to work with? Make sure you have everything balanced - is very important.
x2 on the balancing, since she is down this far I would open up the intake ports a little and match them to the intake, also clean up the outside exhaust ports a little on a street motor don't go crazy just clean em up a little........besides its fun. Take plenty of time to remove all scale in the block I usually spend about a week poking and prodding and dumping. It will help keep her running cool later on............ also I always do the 95% oil filter job on all blocks.......
Looks like a great start! Similar to my completed build - for inspiration some specs -Engine - 1948 59A Ford flathead -S.Co.T Italian supercharger - 4500cc -Bored 3 5/16th inches / 4 1/8” stroked original 4” Mercury Crank - total 284 Cubic Inches - Ported, polished intake and exhaust ports with hi-flo oversize stainless 1.6 inch valves - undercut stems -Relieved quench area with 7:1 compression ratio -Johnson style hollow adjustable lifters -Dual Stromberg 48 high CFM model Carburetors with .052 main jets and 63 PV’s -Custom bell crank throttle linkage with functional original choke and throttle rods -Ford “crab” distributor / Pertronix electronic ignition -Wire Looms – stock Ford -1935 Ford dual air cleaner – One-off custom (two original 35 Ford units siamesed to form one!) -Ross forged pistons with full floating race prepped NOS 21A Ford Rods -Schneider Camshaft 365 lift, duration 270 degrees, 112 overlap -Heavy duty engine main bearing caps -1948 Ford Truck 2-piece oil pan for ease of clutch service and oversize oil drain -1948 Ford Truck 6 blade dual belt driven -Dual pulley Truck Water Pumps -Dual pulley high output generator -Edmunds vintage fuel pressure regulator -Full flow oil system with Hildebrandt external oil filter -Exhausts - Fenton Headers – black porcelain coated with custom dual 2” “under fender” exits -Weber Aluminum flywheel with 10 ½” Weber race clutch
Peter, What can I say: everything in Your engine is nice!. You know finnish culture,..... 100decrees celcius in sauna and from there direct outside rounding in the snow (-20dec celcius), and somebody says that is normal. I have bored block 3 5/16" (3.312") size and hope that cylinders are OK. Looks good, but never knows. I know there is some small cracks from head bolt to center waterhole. I havent fix those. I,m not doing any porting jobs this block. Valvejobs and I measure compression ratio, fix those old Navarros and put engine together. Just ordered headgaskets and headstuds, those were only missing parts this time. Crank and stuff were in Balancing Company and I belive they were doing good job like they have done last 30years. I used their service 20y ,when I was racing with dragsters. Flywheel: maybe I use regular flywheel, which I can make little lighter. Cam: Im not sure what cam I use. I need to fix that old "ovaltrack or speedway" cam which was in block. That cam looks not so good, but I try to save it. Corrosion,.... I have also those old cams: -Isky 400 jr -Potvin 400 -Howard 365 Im listening all Yours opinion. I know what blower cam I use in SB Chevy, but this is my first real flathead blower engine. I had small 2500 Italmeccanica in my 1932 roadster, Harman Collins cam + magneto. Nothing else special and that engine was good for driving. 0,2bar boost max, 170hp max. More like show, not go. This week need to put together 6/71 GMC to my friend. They have indoor swapmeet here in Seinajoki city on Saturday and owner comes to pick up blower. Next week need to continue valvejobs. Aulis
I think you're headed down the right approach - keep it simple and get it running. I'd probably run the 400 jr cam for your setup, though I don't know the Howard version. Having a high-lift, fast ramp and not too much duration cam should work out nicely. Cracks: The small cracks from the headbolts to the center water hole are no big deal - they are very common on a LOT of blocks (don't worry about them). The Harman-Collins magneto is just fine - you won't need a lot of advance on a blown/gas setup, though it would probably run a bit better with a magneto with some mechanical advance in it (like a Vertex with a 6 degree set of plates). Another nice option is to use a MSD setup with boost controlled advance - you can then take out timing when the boost comes up. Valve Springs: You'll want about 80 - 90 lbs on the seat - I typically use the Isky 185G springs and setup the installed height correctly. I typically run SBC valves, so you'll find that the springs are too long if you don't shim them in some manner. I usually modify a OHV steel retainer and also add a couple shims - you can search my posts on 'Porting' and I show the part numbers and what I do. Anyway, best of luck - if you need anything from the 'States', let me know. Dale 'Paananen' Hays
Hello Dale, Paananen lastname is common 150miles east from here west-coast (in middle-Finland). Your relatives are maybe from there. If You come some day here, I have house, pass.car (all free for hot rodders from America) for use and just go and see places, take "finish tour" etc. Engine: I make camcards Potvin400, Howard 365 and "no name" -cam. I inform here specs when I get those ready. IskyJr camcard I already have. I have got some Potvin-400 info but need to check that. 284dec/in,ex; Lobe 113, overlap 58, lift .387/.386 (lash .013/.014). Harmon Collins magneto is very good. I had also same magneto in my Olivegreen Roadster. That one was recoiled and need to recoil this one too. We have in South-East Finland one older man who is recoil magnetos (tractor, mc, car,...). 100-150euro (120-180usd) complete recoiling. MSD boost controller is good thing. I have used in my chevy race engines that box. Good to know that cracks between headbolt threads and waterholes are not problem. I have never met this kind of problem what I have seen now: Headbolt threads (original) and valveseats are very hard, like hardened steel. Not easy to drill treads before make new thread for helicoil and same with valveseats. First cutter not cut, but when surface is broken, then its like normal castiron. Valve Springs installation height must be check. I have Manley SS valves (pro flo) with tapered (narrowed) rod. Normally I have grind valves little shorter because new hollow lifters need to adjust too "short" and those adjust nuts are not keep their position after that. Maybe thread in lifter nuts are rounded outside from middle of nuts because You can feel that friction is not same in middle that deeper. Do You understand what I try to tell? In this case I have "like new" original Johnson lifters and those are little shorter themself than new china lifters. I use in this engine same G-185 springs and I have old titanium retainers, those are fit perfectly those springs and 10dec locks. Those retainers are from my ex 302cid race engine from begining of 90s (327 block, 283 crank). 80-90lbs seat pressure is good. In Flathead we have less mass to move if compare head valve engines (no rockers, no pushrods). Aulis
Lifters: It is much better to have the adjusters way down in the lifter, than sticking way out . . . where they seem to not hold adjustment. I've seen some folks use jamb nuts on them - seems to be a good idea, I should probably pickup some of them! The old/original lifters seemed to have a much better interference fit (tighter) than a lot of the reproductions . . . so having the originals is a good thing. I still think that jamb nuts should be considered - would give us all some peace of mind. Something I'm doing on my next engine: I'm going to setup all the lifters/clearances before I do the final assembly of the valves/springs. I will measure and write down the total lifter length (with adjuster) for all lifter and associated valves. Then, if I experience some valve lash issues later on, I'll be able to determine if the lifter adjuster changed. I've never done this before, but it seems like a good idea. I love Potvin cams - have used them for years. If it was me, I'd run either the Isky or the Potvin - depending on which one is in better shape. A blower will make a cam milder anyway - so who cares if you have a bit of duration! Also, we all like good sounding flatheads! The HC magneto is fine - but not optimal for the street due to the fixed advance (I ran one for years). As long as you have a good starter, then go ahead and set the advance at about 20 degrees and call it good. Make sure you mark your crankshaft pulley with TDC and also the right spacing for timing marks - is a really good thing to have when you want to set the timing and not guess on it. I always mark mine with 5, 10, 15, 20 degrees - is very important for tuning. Okay - enough for now! Would love to come to Finland and visit . . . might just have to take you up on that! Dale
Hello, Im put set up to valves every time before install. I like to do it that way. Some of my flathead blocks have not had small hole for lifter hold on. Adjusting is not so easy with those tools,..... This block somebody has drill holes and its easier to adjust. valves When I make valvejobs, I measure all the time that valves heights. Difference between different valves is something 0,05mm. I have old table model valvespringpresstester. when I have measured springs installation height, I can see if need shim springs or not. I like potvin cams lobe, but need to make better comparison when have done dirty jobs. I know that problem with fixed advance, but now a days we have those good hi-torque starters and if original 6volt starter is good condition (even recoiled), it works good with 12volt. Normally I start engine and push ignition after that. when I had 16:1 compression SBC race engines , that was only way to do because then we did not had those Digital Msd boxes available. TDC, BDC and quarters are good to be marked. Also those decrees You mentioned. Normally I have stamped 10dec, 15dec, 20dec and 25dec. This evening I made only two valveseats. Takes little more time with intake valves, because I install 1.6" valves. Short block was old race engine and there were bigger intake valves (SS), but valveseats were same size both sides, In and Ex.! Now I make bigger valveseats and takes time to cut/grind (i do not know right word) runnersides etc. Interesting Project. Aulis
Valve Seats: The stock valve seats (if it has the hardened inserts) can handle up to about a 1.6" valve - if you're going larger, then you'll have to replace the seats with larger ones (like 1.75" ones) - or you take them out altogether and put a big valve on the cast iron (common in big race motors). If you put new hardened seats in, don't increase the depth of the valve seat pocket to handle a new valve seat that is deeper than Ford used - say like .250". If you go deeper, you risk hitting water! I would only take the seat depth to about .187" - then you'll have to face the top of the seat to bring it back down to about .190 or so - then put your valve seat angles. This is much easier in a milling machine with a combination carbide cutter! (which is how I recommend it). You can do it with stones - just takes a lot of stones/work.
Im using Milling machine. Old set from England maybe from 50´s. Works good. Good thing is that they have not cut many times those valveseats, so valves are very high now and not so much deeper after my valvejobs. Tomorrow I need to put together my customers 6-71 GMC Blower. Today i got new bearings (I sell bearings my dayjob, so I ordered again "samples" from our warehouse) and seals + I bought also 300pc different size shims. Good to have those on stock. Needs various places when working in garage. price is only 7cents ea (0,08usd). My customer was tefloncoated rotors + housing inside. I do not know if it is good or bad. Measured today all tolerances and need to cut out 0,15mm (0,06") from housing
Maybe I missed it. What is the background on the block, did you have it magnetic particle tested for cracks?
Block; I have not tested it. Hope that block is OK. If there is crack/cracks in cylinders I use sleeves. We have very much old sleeves on stock. Teflon coating; we are say here teflon, its PTFE. very slipery material. Same material You find from pan (Frying pan). A
hmmm,....delay, delay and delay. I have had so much things to do during last year that my blower engine has been pushed away. Springtime i built my 1940 panel delivery, during summer finnished my panhead hd and rest 1-2months after I lost part of my finger,.... Autumn I have chopped 1934 ford to Sweden. Cast alum. oilpans took 1-2months hours and 1937 Firetruck´s engine rebuilt was next after oil pans. Now I want to built blower engine ready before I open my cabriolets twin plug engine etc. I dont´t know where I install blower engine, but need to get it ready, finally. Last week I grinded old Navarro heads surfaces and fixed nut bottoms. Day after tomorrow (monday) I continue to make valveseats ready. Engine need to be ready during next two - three weeks.
Hey Auliz - I completely understand! My engine for my 32 was 'supposed' to get done in about 6 months (that was my optimistic thinking) . . . took almost 2 damn years! (Of course other things and life got in the way). Anyway, when you start it up, it is ALL worth it! Hey, by the way - the lower 32 radiator hoses worked out PERFECT! I have a 59AB in a 32 - stock style radiator, so I needed some good hoses and yours did the trick. I had to cut about 3/4" off of the length on each end (no big deal), but they work and look really nice. If you want some pictures - will send them. Take care my Finn friend!
Hello Sir, Thanks. Feels good to get positive feedback. I have cut my s-curve hoses approx. 1/2" inc both end too. There are not original 1932 engine mountings in my cabriolet, but good this is that ex. owner was not weld frame mounts too high. He was used aluminum washers to lift engine front up and it was easy job for me to slow down engine to right level and cut right lenght s-curve hoses between engine and original radiator. It´s good that I have got ready all "backlogs" and can concentrate own hot rods and panhead hd. Of course Oscar, my 5y old crewchief, tells mostly what is rhythm and direction. Next week my friend leave me 6-71 TBS blower. Its out from his Early hemi fiat topolino nostalgia racer. I have promised to help him and look over magneto + blower and tune them up. Aulis Nb. No snow yet (thats good). Only 3 months more to next hot rod driving season! This "dark time" here in north side of the ball is good period to spend time in garage and fix hot rods to "fly".
Cool Aulis . . . no snow here in Ohio either. I do believe that 'global warming' is real - just has to be. Now I'm not going to claim I know the exact causes, but us humans are pretty hard on everything we touch - including Mother Earth!
All right, now valveseats are 50% done. Same time I make intake runners bigger and open exhaust runners. Intake 1.6 pro flo and Ex. 1.5 pro flo -valves. 3 valves per day takes 5-6hours. Block has been racing use 50s - 60s (california) , it was free for me. It´s not 100% condition, but I have done all machinery jobs, new threads etc. Early 50s Merc 4" Crank has been ready over one year. Rod journals 2" and balanced. Aulis
valvejobs ready. Next need to install crank and cylinder nr 1 conn.rod + piston. I have old circle track or speedway -cam which can be very good for blower use. There is no any brand or another information, but looks like "big torque" model. have to install decreeplate and dial indicator and measure Lobe separationoverlap and other info. This cam lift is rather low (8mm), but that is not main thing. If lobe and overlap are not something different, maybe I use MAX-1 cam. I have next old cams on stock and You can tell me Your opinion and if You have any experience what cams have used blower flathead combinations, tell me. 59A style cams on stock: - No name circle track cam - Isky Max 1 - Isky 400 - Isky 88 - Potvin 400 - Clay smith 260 Also possible use Potvin 3/8 cam, which is now installed in to my 221cid cabriolets engine. It works so good there, maybe do not want to change it. AULIS
I'd probably use the 400 JR or the Potvin 400 . . . which is a little bit bigger than the 3/8 - similar profile and timing. Looking good so far! Make sure you balance the thing.
Thank You, maybe was think to choose too "easy" cams,... All are balanced over one year ago. Now merc crank looks like Swiss cheese. Ross pistons are very light weight and maybe H-profile conn.rods are little lighter than originals, because I use those "small journal" rods. bearings are lighter, pins and rings too. AH
You're taking the right approach . . . light weight and also loose bearing clearances - the way to go. Also, check your compression height over the piston domes to the heads. It is best to have it kind of tight - like .040 inches . . . really helps these engines run well. Have a Merry Christmas!
Thanks, have a Merry Christmas too! We are all Christmas time home (I (50y) and my son Oscar (5y)). No hot rods, more Legos, Disney films, Angry birds,..... I have in my cabriolet engine 0.02" piston head clearance (I know its very small). before it was nearly zero and when engine was warm, i hear strange sound. I took heads off and those Twin plug heads need machinery jobs + changed different head gaskets. 221cid has small piston and rather lightweight mass but 0.02" is very little clearance. Now its not "knocking", but runs like crazy. Earlier (late 80´s -early 90´s) I had +700hp SBC engines (w/o supercharger). Hi-compression engines. Very low (approx 0.04") piston valve clearance, but I used then Pro Stock guys old valvesprings (280-300lbs installation pressure). Piston head clearance was bigger. Question: Why some flathead builders are use 1.72" intake valves? I made runners bigger + made valveseats bigger (1,6" intake valves). Exhaus I left 1.5" size + make runners more open. Is there any extra benefit to use intake valves 1.72"? Aulis
I think there is no benefit useing 1.72 valves over 1.6 inch Maybe if you modify the intake runner for more flow JWL has written it down in his book. Since you are running a blower , i wont be critical as the mixture is pushed through the ports .
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