Bending Tie Rod Ends

Seems like you should be able to do it just like a steering arm but no Ackerman to worry about. I’d rather mess up a couple $12 tie rod ends than a set of spindles. Anyone ever try this?

 

I,ve seen it done on a couple of Track Rods. hey they were them.??

 

I've done it- but for vintage tractors, not a vehicle that actually goes over 15 mph. I would be concerned about losing the heat-treat.

Depending on what you're looking to do & what kind of drop...you can probably go down to your local friendly parts store, look through the Moog catalog, or others, & find something that will match up threadwise, lengthwise, & drop-wise.

I've seen other people do it with no apparent problems...but I'm kinda paranoid. Is the steering linkage really the place to experiment? Me say no.

 

Yup. Did it once in 1953 and wound up with a'32 5 window with the shiny side down in a ditch. DON'T DO IT!

 

Plus it would not allow any adjustment execpt a full turn .....at a time if bent,right?

 

the tie rod will buckle if it's not straight, and centered between the tie rod end balls.

there's a good reason the arms are what gets bent.

 

I know a guy that did it to a '61 F100 and ran on the salt flats with it. I think he said he used Vega TREs. I might have pics somewhere.

 

Ok, found it. He did use Vega ends.

 

And here he is running the salt...


I'm curious to learn more about the concerns with this set up. I'm in the process of dropping my axle right now (same truck) and will have the same interference issues. I bought Cen Pen's tie rod re-locator, but I'm afraid it won't be enough. I'll know when I get the axle back, I guess.

 

I bent the tie rods on my car, but not the threaded tie rod ends. Seems to work fne but limits your alignment adjustments to full turns.

 

Any more opinions on this?

 

as a mechanical engineer, I think it's scary....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckling

 

If you have a right hand thread on one end and a left hand thread on the other end, fine (less than full turns) adjustment should be available.
Comet: I'm assuming the Vega tie rod ends are straight, but have a long unthreaded area, is that correct? Thanks,
Bob

 

I did a 35 Chev and reamed the spindles so the rod ends would go through the top, made a couple tapered sleaves to mate the tie rod end taper. ( the tapered hole was to big for the rod end because it had to be reamed out beyond the wide end.) Then run the tie rod above the springs. I have some drawings if you need.Dan

 

I have seen many dropped tie rods, they can be bent or cut and welded with a gusset. They all seam to work fine. I have never seen a dropped end ever tried and wouldn't want one that had been done. Most would have to be bent in the threads, and thats a no no.--TV

 

I agree with Squirrel on this one. I developed a slight bend in my tie rod in my T once and ran into all sorts of issues. Once you take a link out of pure compression or tension it can buckle pretty easy.

In theory it can be done but you will need to greatly increase the strength of your link.

so there, you have the opinion of two mechanical engineers

 

The real problem is with a long tie rod, behind the axle...when you apply the brakes, there is a large compressive load on the tie rod. If the tie rod is straight and centered between the ends, then it will not deflect until the buckling strength is exceeded. But with bends in it, it will deflect every time...how far it deflects depends on how hard you're braking and how much traction you get. This might not be a problem on the salt, but it is on the street.

It's not a problem to have a drop in a center link, which is much shorter than a tie rod used with a straight axle.

 

Yes, see the pic I posted.

I too am familiar with this set up. Seen it on many 4x4s looking to get the tie rod out of the way of the rocks.

That's what I was thinking too, but now the ME's comments give me greater concern.

Ok, Squirrel, I follow ya. But you are talking about the tie rod itself, not the ends. Assuming the temper on the ends is correctly maintained after heating, it seems the strength would be there still. I'm not trying to convince myself or anyone else this is a good idea, just asking the questions and wanted to clarify the issue with the ends vs. the rod itself.

 

It should be strong enough not to break, but that's not what I'm concerned about....

 

I think bending is an issue with altered parts, but there are ends out there that are made bent, that is forged and heat-treated as bent units rather than heated and bent with a probable loss of original strength. The Moog catalog has pretty good picures, and would allow identification of possibilities.
Taper and thread would then be the next set of issues,,,
but if it's bent, I think you want it forged that way.

 

Not sure I'd go with this one...Squirrel raises the buckling issue, which is the mode of failure to watch out for. As I design machines for a living...I'd rather that my tie-rods were straight.
Pitman, P.E. in M.E.