I just scored a Ansen swing pedal set up,with a chev master. All is there and I will do a rebuild on the master just to be safe. After some research, I found out the masters used with the Ansen set up is a 58=62 Chev truck master. ok,. cool. Looked up the Napa parts and I have a question. The bore on the master(Chev truck) is 1 1/8.... All this will be applied on my upcoming 5 winda project.Plans are to run the 241 hemi and the t5 out of my old A. In the A, I ran a Wilwood separate master that was a 7/8 bore....hooked to a McLeod Slave,.... ran great,shifted great and performed well with no hitches. Before installing that I was playing with a Wilwood master(same master/different bore) that had a 1 inch bore..... It was terrible.... no sweet spot,it was full on or off.So I stayed with the 7/8 bore and we we good. So my question is...... this Ansen setup, with a master(Chev truck) is a 1 1/8 bore..... Is this going to work? Should I go with a stock chevy slave?(outside the bell?) Is there some kind of line reducer/reduction? Sorry for the dumb questions, I rather look first, than leap. Here is a pic of the chev master I have with the Ansen......
I think if you're planning to use it as it was intended, with clutch & brake pedals, then you shouldn't have any issues. I'm running the same setup on my T. But I haven't got to the brakes yet, so I'm still lurking for info.
KISS, stick to what Chevy did, got the Wagner book open here. They list a stock 1 1/16" clutch Slave with a minor change to 1" later
If I need a different Slave.....no big thing..... I just wanted to use what I have in stock. Commen sense tells me the 1 1/8 bore is too big.... meaning it won't work. but hey.. whadda I know...I draw for a living.
Im running the novak bracket with a 7/8 jeep slave and the short fork (also from novak, but I think its a late Camaro fork.)No problems as I think the slave has enough volume to handle the larger bore master. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm
Here are the stock Part Numbers....... clutch/brake master F87167 clutch slave 1 1/16" FF124369 Again Wagnerr numbers your parts guys can cross reference. International used a simlilar Dual MC, it has been posted here, I can look them up as well for diferences
Running the same M/C in my T with a IHC slave['cause it was free] it's a 1&1/16 bore as I recall. The clutch has as good a feel as any mechanical I've ever had.If a man had to run one of those stinkin internal slave cylinders would be easy enough to sleeve down the master to whatever you need. Been using this style setup for the last 30 odd years,usually just build my own pedals and bracket. And remember to swap the guts out side to side , so the residual check will be in the correct side if using as swing pedals.
I run that type of set up on my '36. I'm running a stock 1 1/16' slave outside the bell and it works great. Never had a problem and I can feel the clutch just like with manual linkage. johnny
So John..... you can sleeve down this chev master from a 1 1/8 to a 7/8 bore? I have never heard of this. Tman/Scott.. thanks!
mmmmm.....maybe I will ditch the McLeod Slave and go external..... Externals are cheep enough. John.... what is a IHC slave?
Jeff, rebuild numbers on the master are Brake side F33160 Clutch Master F33148 Clutch slave F130286 for 1 1/16" and F33163 for the later version
I'm using the same dual master on my '28. But the bores are smaller than that... 1" (on both bores ) or 1 1/16 ( on both ), cant remember for sure but I think it was 1" The Brake/Clutch Master was supposed to go on a '60s Chevy Dumptruck. I'm using the Clutch Slave that matched that Master, and changed Pedal Ratio's untill I was happy with the feel.
Jeff : With a lathe and a mill and the desire you can do almost anything if you need to. IHC is International truck,slave cylinder was hanging on a engine headed for scrap. Never buy anything you can get for free !! LOL Yes i'm cheap. Metalshapers : I'm a old partmans and never recall seeing that cylinder in a smaller bore than 1&1/8 .Pickups etc used that one 1.5 toners had 1&3/8 bore on the brake side and the biggest trucks had 1&1/2 or the tandem dumps etc had 1&3/4 brake bore. Clutch was always the same 1&1/8. If you have a smaller bore one I would like to know what it orignally fit.
I use the same setup... But with the Ansen brackets and pedals the master cylinder ended up in the middle of the gas tank flange on the firewall. It looked quite goofy, so I mounted it directly below the flange and made new, shorter pedals, (new ones because the Ansen ones were too straight, and looked cheap) In order to compensate for the shorter pedals I sleeved the bores down to 7/8". Works excellent.
i have tryed to use a 7/8 slave with a 1 1/8 master,and it was like pushing against a wall.installed a slave from the same truck the master came from,fixed all problems. -danny
Don't forget that with Ansen pedals, the internals of the master cylinder have to be swapped side for side for proper operation.
Jeff, Jr had some work done on one of those mc's in his roadster. PM him for the info to add to your options for this project. See ya soon?....
on the Chevy master the clutch is on the right and the brake is on the left, so the residual valve will need to be moved from the left cylinder to the right. I used an Ansen swing set on my T, the one that uses two seperate masters, and a slave I don't remember the original application of.. but I matched the bore diameters, one inch master and one inch slave, and it works very well.
I used the same set up for an mc with the Ansens. I'm running a T56 6 speed and used a hydraulic throwout from Weir Hot Rod Products out west. It's for a 1" bore and works great. The pedal is firm, but operates as good as any mechanical that I've had. The only issue was to install an in-line bleeder as they only run one line to the throwout and not a separate bleeder line. That's minor...
The Chevy truck master cylinders have "brake" and "clutch" cast into the housing directly above each port. Because these trucks utilized a "z bar" pedal assembly under the dash, the ports on the master are actually swapped side to side. Meaning... the port marked "brake" is actually for the clutch and the port marked "clutch" is actually for the brake... when using the pedal assembly you are asking about. To ensure correct fluid travel to the designated parts you will need to remove the snap ring on each port of the master cylinder and pull out the guts and swap em side to side. When you hook up the lines going to the master, make sure you screw the clutch line into the port marked "brake" and the brake line into the port marked "clutch". Easy stuff, takes a few minutes to swap em. BUT... If you don't do this and nobody ever told you this info, you would be slammin yer head against the nearest hard surface, cussin intently and wondering why neither system is working correctly. Then you would most likely make another trip back to the parts store to get another master because surely, the other master must be bad and you would then install that one only to find out the new master doesn't work either. Sooner or latter it would dawn on you that you had the lines hooked up wrong, you'd swap em and it still wouldn't work. Finally you'd get so fed up that you would pull the guts out of the master and swap em as a last ditch effort and suddenly it would work. Not that anything like that ever happened to me or anything.