Aluminum radiator worth it?

uh...the Chevy cars and trucks used the same radiator, with different mounting, for the 6 and 8 in the mid-late 50s. Just a little reality check.

 

I didnt know that!

 

You would be mortified if the new cars had temp gauges with numbers on them. There is a reason that they don't just hot and cold...no numbers 210 degrees is nothing to worry about. Late model cars can and do run as hot as 230 with no problems I don't recall you saying that you have boiling water and steam spurting everywhere. Until that happens don't look at the gauge if it makes you nervous.

 

wife's late model truck has numbers on the gauge, but the computer that controls the gauge is programmed to say 210 all the time after warm up, unless something is screwed up...then it goes to zero, and says "engine may be overheating" on the message display. But yeah....put a temp gage on an older car with a C -- H gauge, and you'll be shocked how hot H really is. Boiling over is when you know it's too hot!

 

Yuppers!

 

Tell us how you REALLY feel, George. Don't hold back!

 

Yup. But this isn't a late model engine we're talking about. Older engines aren't designed to operate at the same temps as the newer engines.

 

If I did THAT, they'd ban me...softly, softly...

 

What is the normal max operating temp range for older engines? is it when the coolant boils over with a 7 psi cap?

 

This feels like deja vu all over again! No, I don't think that boiling over is considered within the "normal max operating range". Once you boil over, you're out of range, I'd say.

 

Here's the fan I've had on my car since I got it behind the radiator support and next to the stock shroud. It has been about a decade since I've seen it out of the shroud, let alone out of the car! The blade says it's from an '87 Town Car 5.0. From blade to blade is about 18.25 inches and the shroud is 20 inches across.


It's primitive technology that is further compromised in the name of vanity.- HAMBer Cleatus

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

really hard to tell from here with that picture...it's a clockwise rotation fan, right? the serpentine belt fans that Ford started using around 1986 were reverse rotation?

 

Does that matter???

 

You bet it does,it wouldn't draw air through the radiator properly. HRP

 

Why of course it matters which way the fan is designed. A serpentine belt fan is mounted on a backasswards turning water pump which turns the fan backasswards.
But mounting a Lincoln fan on a Chevy motor is wrong in so many other ways. That's nearly as bad as the T-Bird electric fan in my 55 Chevy wagon.

 

Uh, Danny, that was humour...Kinda thought the smilie would give it away, maybe I was being too subtle...

 

It's on the water pump in the picture. It's facing the camera as it'd face you if you're standing in front of the radiator.


It's primitive technology that is further compromised in the name of vanity.- HAMBer Cleatus

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Oh, and while we are at it, on the torkin dirty thread, I didnt REALLY think that truck was a 2-stroke either...Just so we are all on the same page here...

 

The fan clutch makes that clear, what squirrel is saying, and I agree, looking at the photo its very hard to see which way the blades are pitched.

 

George,sometimes even the obvious emoticon can be completely oblivious when senility is involved. HRP

 

Warning: This post may contain satire.
Sometimes we can't tell satire from fact.

 

To the OP. your obviously not a street rodder, to stay on topic have your brass checked out if you feel it belongs to a theme. Otherwise Aluminum has advantages, if you find a really nice one (near new) for cheap, what would it hurt? Paint it Black. Was the 327 killed from over heating or whipped hard? Shroud is a good idea.

 

At last, we have found some common ground! Two weeks ago, I misplaced my wifes car!

 

Put Danny on the spreadsheet!

 

Ryan once said he hated electric fans, they weren't traditional. If we had'em in the early 60's we sure the hell would've used'em!!

 

I blew a rod. No, not a street rodder. Just a guy who wants his car to run its best. I went with a smaller engine this time with only a 2 barrel, so I won't be having my foot in it. I'll agree that 210 is within standard operating temps of a SBC, but the problem is that it'd climb, and at any point if I'd shut the car off it wouldn't start again. I'd get off the highway and the temp would rise, and if I'd have to stop to check a map (almost essential with long distance shows) I'd have to wait for however long until I could start it again. If I could drive off the highway, get to a show, shut it off and hop in later and drive off I'd be happy.

Also, to those who like to comment without reading, the car has had a shroud on it since before I've owned it.


It's primitive technology that is further compromised in the name of vanity.- HAMBer Cleatus

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Sometimes the line becomes blurred on this side as well...

 

Sounds to me like either your starter or fuel line is too close to your exhaust.

 

Starter's in the stock location. Fuel line comes up from the pump without touching the exhaust. I don't know about from the tank because the engine and exhaust manifolds are out of the car now. I'll have to check. I'm running ram's horns if that makes a difference.


It's primitive technology that is further compromised in the name of vanity.- HAMBer Cleatus

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Hot starting problems are usually caused by a hot starter or hot fuel. Ram's horns should easily clear your starter so I'd check your fuel lines being too close to the exhaust pipes. If your running an Edelbrock carb try running a spacer between it and the intake.