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a couple of pictures/ update

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by moparsled, Jan 26, 2008.

  1. Here's what I've been up to today- cutting up the new input shaft for the Lasalle trans, and a shot of the stock one still in the trans for comparison. I've cut the oil spiral off near the bearing, and tapered it up to the keeper groove, and then cut the OD down in the middle to match that of the splines, so I can send it out to have the splines cut back. Next is cutting back the snout and taper, so the whole thing will fit in the bellhousing.

    Pilot bushing and bearing retainer are done too.
     

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  2. 17dracing
    Joined: May 15, 2008
    Posts: 362

    17dracing
    Member
    from Indiana

    Just wanted to say AWESOME work !!!!! It takes a car guy to see the real details and appreciate them !!! and man you have nailed it !!!!! Great job !!!
     
  3. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 4,878

    Rand Man
    Member

    I want to hear that thing run.
     
  4. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    I want to hear it run too!

    If it runs like it looks, sure would be sweet!
     
  5. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,422

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    That thing is looking great, hope it runs as good as it looks!! Keep up the good work.:D
     
  6. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    Hey 'Sled, if you don't mind, how 'bout letting me know what the splines wind up costing. We're going to need some ourselves.
     
  7. Little Wing
    Joined: Nov 25, 2005
    Posts: 7,504

    Little Wing
    Member
    from Northeast

  8. Tom Staub in Denver will do it for $40. He does a pair of axles for $75, and will do a housing for $75 as well. I sent him my stock Lasalle tailshaft, but I got the shortened trans before he did it, so I put him on hold. Won't be any holding on this input shaft!
     
  9. dyno runs imminent....
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    tomorrow or wednesday.
     
  10. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    OOOOooooooooo!!!!

    You'll have those step-up jets tuned to perfection!

    I'm anxious to hear your results.
     
  11. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,240

    nexxussian
    Member


    Cool, good luck.

    May all of your effort and hard work remain contained in it's apropriate location within the engine.
     
  12. moose
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 353

    moose
    Member

    Hey Moparsled, excellent work. I'm looking forward to hearing this thing...

    What size headers are those? 1-3/4" They look big!
     
  13. baseline pulls made tonight, no tuning yet. The carb "hat" adapter I made for the airflow meter was a no-go, so with the emergency help of a friend, I made a new one tonight. At this point we know we're rich, soooooooo...... tuning and more pulls tomorrow.

    pre-tuning peak h.p. 164.8@4000rpm peak torque 253.6@2250rpm
    my pie-in-the-sky goal is 200 h.p. , we'll see how close we get.

    so, an equipment rundown is in order..

    1950 Dodge flathead six (stock rated 103 h.p. @ 3600 rpm)
    bored .060" (238 c.i.) Egge pistons
    decked .006"
    Edgy aluminum head, estimated compression 9.75 to 1
    balanced
    ported, valve guides shortened
    stock valves with undercut heads
    valve springs 80 psi @ installed height
    cam regrind by Schneider 270* adv. duration, .395" lift
    crankshaft cross-drilled
    oil pan 2" deeper, right side rail pushed out 1", homemade windage screen
    oil pressure relief shimmed .050"
    Edmunds intake, 2 Carter Ball & Ball one barrels ('48 Plymouth)
    header 1.625" diameter, 36" long primaries, 3" diameter, 12" long collector extension.
    no water pump, fuel pump, generator
    Mallory Magspark diual point distributor and transformer
    Tevco red (translucent) solid core wires
    Autolite 295 plugs
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2008
  14. Joe Hamby
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 405

    Joe Hamby
    Member

    Hi Moporsled. You know that the mopar flathead 6 is the motor that won the first 500 mile nascar race on a hard surface. I wanted to tell you that when we dynoed my slant 6, we first used a 12 inch collector extension, then when we changed to a 18 inch, it gained 6 hp. Your motor looks really nice. I hope to see it next year at mokan. Joe
     
  15. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 4,878

    Rand Man
    Member

    I really knew nothing about the Mopar six before I saw your build. That's a neat engine. A 60hp gain is good on any motor.
     
  16. moose
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 353

    moose
    Member

    This is good stuff. I want to see what you can get. I always said I thought I was getting around 175hp with a very similar set up. I don't run it like that anymore cause my Plymouth has baby seats in the back now, but mine was like this:

    Edmunds head 9 to 1
    Edgy reground cam 274 dur.
    Tattersfield 2 single intake B&B's
    Mallory MagSpark and dual point distributor
    home made shorty headers
    2" dual exhaust all the way out the back
    10" truck clutch

     
  17. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Take the springs out of your step up jets, and try 'er again.

    Those buggers are the dickens. You'll need them later

    Hud
     
  18. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Gee, I meant to edit my post somehow - and it appears i deleted it?

    Make sure your step-up jets are disabled, they are cantankerous buggers to tune and are a horrendous source of rich conditions. But, you'll need them in the final wind-up.

    I was editing my post to say, I have a pristine EB-7A transmitter - thats 6 cylinders/12 volts. You know how to reach me.

    Hud
     
  19. I'm not able to get back over there until Friday, at that point I am going to work on the low speed side of the carbs. I have the blocked off main jets and the UniSyn ready!
    Truth is, no matter where I end up after tuning, I am satisfied. Even if it doesn't make 200 h.p., it's within reach at this point, so I know I CAN get there.

    more about the header- All the dimensions of this header were picked pretty much arbitrarily. After doing some research online about header design and dimensions, this header I built is too big in every way. It'll hurt my #'s some, but a redo will have to wait until much later. I also thought the design to be a bit "out of era", but a customer of the machine shop brought me a picture of his Hemi rail circa '61 that had VERY similar headers, so now I don't feel so bad!

    I have video of the first two pulls, I will link as soon as they're up.

    Joe Hamby- no- I didn't know that about Nascar/flathead six Mopar- that's cool! thanks!
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2008
  20. Ron Golden
    Joined: Jan 30, 2005
    Posts: 513

    Ron Golden
    Member

    Mopar,

    That little devil's making pretty good torque for a 9.75:1 CR engine, especially with that big of a header. I think it would respond with a 1.5 x 32-36 primary with a 2.25-2.5 x 18 collector and about 10-15* more duration @ 0.050. Typically an engine's peak HP is about 1500 rpm above peak TQ. If you raised the peak TQ 1000 rpm I think your HP would easily exceed 200.

    Very impressive engine!

    Ron
     
  21. thanks Ron!
    the header calculator I used wouldn't accept my stroke #, so I just got as close as I could, it came back with 1.375" x 31.5" primary and 2.5" x 14" collector. Edgy has the pattern for an Isky grind that I really want to use- 280*/.448" I just haven't been able to spend that $ yet. Done this once or twice before, haven't you?
     
  22. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    Dang tootin'

    For his stroke length, he's running a very short overall crank length. He can out-rpm both of us Hudson and GMC dudes. That is until his piston speed frys his Egges.

    Killler, you aren't even tuned nor synch'd on the carbs - are turning those numbers. Well, I'm on the edge of my seat now, for sure.

    Hud
     
  23. Ron Golden
    Joined: Jan 30, 2005
    Posts: 513

    Ron Golden
    Member

    Mopar,

    Done a few....... and some actually worked out the way I planned. Consider your individual cylinder displacement (238/6=39.67 cid). If that was an 8 cylinder the total displacement would be 317 cid (39.67 x 8= 317 cid). That size engine at 5000 rpm would like about a 1.5" header. Granted, we're talking apples vs oranges here but the engine doesn't know.

    When you consider the rpm drop between gears the midrange torque becomes more important than the max hp. Find your tranny gear ratios and calculate the rpm drop from your max rpm to the rpm it will be after the gear change. Try to tune the cam/header/intake, etc for that rpm range. Of utmost importance is the collector diameter and length.

    As an example, from 3600 to 5600 rpm our GMC has over 337 lb/ft of TQ with a peak of 346 lb/ft at 4600 rpm. A 4 into 1 header would really help our TQ below 4600 rpm but my partners liked the looks of zoomies. I had the cam ground by Dema Elgin and he missed the TQ peak I requested by just 100 rpm. He hit the HP peak exactly on the nose. Now if I could run a Powerglide with the right converter...........

    It all comes down to the right combination of parts working together. Two people that dance together all the time look great. Put me in place of the male dancer and I'll guarantee you I'll make us both look like we have 2 left feet. I'm that bad a dancer.

    The engine looks great and you did a hell of a nice job building your header. I'm sure the 200 HP is there waiting.

    Ron
     
  24. had a couple more pulls tonight. No horsepower increase yet. For some reason it will rev great right up to 4k, and then it starts screwing up.
    A/F was in the 8's, so I pulled the step-up springs, moved the pump shot to the shortest stroke, and put the mixture screws at 1 turn out. A/F is now in the 10-11's up to 3250, and 13's up to 4k.
    Pulled again, same issue. Closed spark plug gap to .022, and put shims under the plugs to get 'em away from the valves a bit. No change.
    opened up the point gap from .024 to .027- and got the stumble to move up to 4250.

    seems we may have an ignition issue! Tomorrow We're going to try changing the Magspark to a traditional dual point, with a regular coil, and I am taking a stock distributor with, as a backup plan. Also- he set the timing at 38* locked. This seems excessive to me- any comments?
     
  25. Ron Golden
    Joined: Jan 30, 2005
    Posts: 513

    Ron Golden
    Member

    Mopar,

    Ain't dynoing fun.....and informative. Frustrating sometimes too.

    Definately try more timing. Most of the engines I dyno like 37-42* of timing with the advance locked.

    Questions:
    Is .024" the normal point gap?
    What's the total cfm of your carbs?
    With the engine shut off and the points closed, what is the voltage on the + side of the coil?
    Balast resistor?


    Suggestions:
    Just use 1 set of points in the dual point distributor.
    Don't look at the AF ratio except for info. Jet for the best power!!!!
    As soon as you complete the dyno pull (immediately) smell the air in the dyno room to see if you can smell ANY exhaust.
    Try a different coil...any kind.

    Utmost importance: let the engine tell you what it wants...don't try to tell it.

    I'd love to hear that engine on a dyno pull.

    Ron
     
  26. Hudsonator
    Joined: Jun 19, 2005
    Posts: 335

    Hudsonator
    Member
    from Tennessee

    I don't want to step on Ron's toes, but flatheads don't like that much timing. Particularly inlines.

    If you're going to run a locked timing, start at 22* then move up with sucessive pulls, 38 is kinda excessive. A flathead's cylinder charge is monumentally more turbulent than an OHV and is very sensitive to timing, its really easy to get too high.

    I foresee you enabling your mechanical advance, but limiting it somewhat to maybe 8-9* Crank degrees, you'll be surprized how responsive those, or any flathead, is to slight timing changes in the upper ranges.

    Keep us informed, great stuff!

    Hud
     
  27. I didn't mention that the reasoning behind the A/F #'s watching was because initially he thought maybe the ignition was having trouble burning the "fat" charge. After leaning it some, and not loosing the stumble, we are now looking at ignition issues.

    more pulls this morning.
     
  28. moose
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 353

    moose
    Member

    Have you got any videos of these pulls? We want to hear it!
     
  29. I have partial videos of the first two pulls. I finally remembered to bring the camera home, so I'll see if I can get them up. I'm probably going to wait for more video until the thing will rev right, but boy does it sound good above 4000, and so much better now than in the videos. Also keep in mind that you're not getting "full noise" cuz it's hooked to the exhaust pipe.

    Lanier had a very busy day today, so only a couple more pulls, but there is some small progress. I changed the Magspark around to a traditional dual point setup, and changed to a regular coil. Timing is 28*. I also straightened up the carb linkage a bit, and dialed the carbs a bit closer together. It now pulls up to 4800, but there it begins to stumble again. More fighting with the ignition is in order. I want 6000 rpm, dammit!!!

    peak h.p is up to 169.6@4250, same run peak torque 248.9@2750

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFIzQzxhHq8
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyEmUJSyX0Y
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 27, 2008
  30. Mr. Mac
    Joined: May 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,966

    Mr. Mac
    Member

    It's been along time since I heard a flathead six sound that good.
    Good Job!
     

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