They flow about 242 CFM which is good for 350 hp https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech-general-engine/542380-trick-flow-175cc-heads.html To get 350hp from a 283 is going to require RPM for the old air pump to start breathing It is depending on what you are trying to achieve. Drop those heads on a 400 sbc with a "torquer cam" and you will have a real stump pulling "boulevard bandit" On a baby engine you will need some gearing to get it up there. If you want to keep your car nostalgic look at trick flows aluminium double humps https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-30210003 On the street "lazy cubes" is far better than a high strung animal. If you want to keep it matching numbers, then consider sonic checking the bores and going out to 4" bore.
Yep, it's like free hp. Shameless repeat alert. My second car in high school was a 57 BelAir with a a tired 283 out of a 64 Impala, first thing I did was swap the three speed for a T-10, snapped an axle first, then the spider gears in the rearend were next, the only rearend in the wrecking yard was a 4.11. What's a guy to do, man, talk about waking up that tired 283.
Nothing is free! Horsepower is the size of the bang x the number of bangs per minute A 283 with 4.11s should breathe the same as a 350 with 3.31 gear at the same equivalent speed. And a 283 at 7500rpm is breathing the 350 at 6060rpm But the High strung animal needs some serious quality components to stay together ..And it's life expectancy is reduced exponentially I love screaming "small" race engines especially if they can stay together for longer periods than a 10 second quarter [10000rpm Swiss built Morand Chevy F5000 engines ] But this sort of engine soon tests your hearing/patience driving on the interstate
I just saw the cc an intake/ex volumes and figured was a good for the 283..not looking to biuld a street racer just a cruiser with a little more ass then it has now
Its sounding more and more like I should drop a smedding crate motor in and biuld the 283 for fun and keep it stored and run once in a while on a stand lol
Well, if all your gonna use is the block, ya might otta look at one. Im using one because the stock 220 ish hp is about twice what the flathead it’s replacing had. I’m fine cruising in the left lane
I'm talking abut a drop in crate motor like the 383 they biuld. I don't know i just keep going back and forth I drive myself nuts. Would be fun to biuld but im also anxious to get it back on the road and with two kids time is not on my side so woud def take me a while to complete. And the 283 would make a nice project when time allows.
Should work just fine. I plan on using this mainly just for looks. I’m no performance guy. I’ve built plenty of that for other folks.
I only used the vac gage tuning multi carbs that were not progressive. Like motorcycles and British cars. The 2x4s I’ve been around had a primary and secondary carb. The 3x2s used the center as the primary. The end carbs were secondary carbs. No chokes, no air metering. The butterflys would seal up and jet sizes reduced. All they did was dump fuel. I’ve been around those just enough to be dangerous. The 3x2 set up on my friends 348 works great. I’ll convert 2 of my regular carbs into secondary carbs like his. I’ll have to remember how we tuned the British rides when I set up these dual 1 bbl Carters
Bryan............Here is the real problem that not only you but most other rodders face. You have a predetermined idea (use a 283) and you would like for all of us to tell you why that's a great decision and you should go for it. Most of the responses you get tell you that if you want to stand in a parking lot and talk about all the period correct stuff you have under the hood then go for it..........BUT if you want a really enjoyable driver that has the ability to move a heavy car ..........you need torque. So the problem you and many others have is admitting to yourself that your best option doesn't really coincide with what you wanted. Not trying to be a smarta** with this reply, but all that mind twisting basically comes down to accepting the idea that a 283 isn't going to provide sparkling performance but will cost you just as much money to build. You can always build the 283 with a cheap build and not go for costly stuff and sit it on a stand for reinstallation when/if you want to sell it as a numbers matching car. Basic ball hone, new rings and bearings and turn the crank. Reseat the valves and put new springs on them and reuse the OEM cam and lifters. You get the basic experience which is a good way to go on your first engine. Don't need too many tools and you will learn a lot. But for actual driving, you will enjoy TORQUE........and thats what most of us are trying to tell you.
Correct. I’m using a 283 cause I wanted a 283. I’m replacing 110-115 hp with 220-240 hp. I’m also running 3:92 stock gears but will use an OD trans. Simple rebuild, valves worked with new guides and springs. .030 over off the shelf pistons. Piston height? Ain’t worried about it. Simple melling mtc-1 cam If you get to the show a couple minutes faster, I’ll park next to ya
Don't over carb a baby engine A 283 at 300hp only needs 500 cfm You're like a kid in a toy store [spoiled for choice] This is the time where you need to be honest with yourself [instead of wishful thinking] The reality check is your Impala is not a lightweight racecar and if you're totally honest here , you'd be totally happy if the car performed like a Camry Set your sights on an honest 300hp [this will wake up your car, and light up those tyres] For a street car you want that HP at the lowest RPM possible [going "big" helps] You can easily turn a later 283 into a 350 ["easy" is a subjective term] , the block needs to sonic check OK and the mains line-bored to large journal [the same caps and castings] But why bother ???? There are a lot of benefits of a later model engine [roller cams, one piece rear main seal], Just buy a used 350 ,preferably a L98 and ring/bearing/cam then paint it. Convert it to carb from TPI ,use a short waterpump and pulleys etc and you will be out on the streets in no time. AND you haven't burnt your bridges with the 283 [you still have it in storage] Here is an interesting "project" that would suit your needs [especially how they disguise the engine] https://inthegaragemedia.com/vintage-looking-gen-ii-chevy-small-block-engine-dress-up/ then look at a trans swap [earlier I suggested a wide ratio Super T10 ,but that would also require a rear-end swap] A TKO500 would probably be cheaper because the rear end could stay as-is Then get out there and drive the wheels off it
Cool thing about a 283 is trans options Just assembled a Saginaw and Muncie 3 speed OD. Should be perfect for a cruiser.
He already has a Muncie! I suggested a wide ratio Super T10 and a 3.08 rear to help the 283 off the line and also be a cruiser. But a TKO 500 would circumvent the need for a 3.08 rear Stock 3 speeds [eg: my 57 Chevy] have a 2.95 1st and 3.55 rear = 10.47 overall To get this from a M20 "wide" Muncie would require a 4.15:1 rear [4.11's] to get the same mechanical advantage. His 64 Impala was originally a 283 powerglide car so it could possibly have a 3.36 rear. This would be a nice cruiser with a TKO 0.63 overdrive The TKO 500 has a 3.27 1st gear combined with a 3.36 = 10.98:1 which is the equivalent mechanical advantage off the line as a M20 with 4.36 gears And it will cruise at 1950rpm at 70mph in 5th You can get a Mid Shift option on TKO 500's so the bench seat is unaffected. @bryan boswell Look at a complete "compatible" package instead of throwing "hotrod" parts at your engine I went back and re-read your original post [#1] It sounds like your engine is still running OK [ish] so why dick with it? Just do the peripheral mods [one at a time] and don't do the "dismantle of death" Start with HEI and maybe a 4 barrel intake and carb. [the best "all-rounder" is the GM LT1 intake but is rare, but the Holley Street Dominator is the same casting from the same foundry] A set of 2-1/2" Rams horn [Corvette] manifolds so you don't fight exhaust leaks. There is no real gains with mufflers and full exhaust behind headers . And finally do a cam but be very conservative.[less than 0.440" lift can use stock valves and retainers with drop-in Z28 springs] You will get more gains from the transmission and handling than blowing a fortune at a high strung animal [and you haven't gone past the point of no-return] Radial Tyres, modern shocks ,sway bars will also give you really nice results [and cheap compared to other mods] LESS IS MORE
That’s a lot of cool numbers. My 283 will get the 319 Muncie with the stock rear 3:92 gears. Bought cheap cause most folks want to go fast or something. Saves me from charging the rear gear. Saginaw 4 speed would work with those 3:08s or 3:36s behind a mild 283. And don’t have to spend big $$$ Faster off line? Don’t care. I’ll wave at the TKO trans guy with a big ole grin as he passes me. If speed is the goal, a stock new car will work. New stang or vette will out handle and run probably 95% of the cars here.
Your SM 319 has a 2.95 1st [the same as a SM 318] that would get up and go off the line with 3.92's That is the same as 4.56 gears behind a M20 [which wouldn't be freeway friendly] You also have the luxury of a 0.7 overdrive so your overall ratio is 2.74 [more freeway friendly] Bryan already has a 4 speed Muncie [I assume M20] so a "Z" ratio BW Super T10 would bolt in using the same shifter ,mounts, speedo drive etc [new yoke, clutch plate are needed] So this ^^^ would make more sense than a "Saginaw" 4 speed But he will still needed at higher rear end to get the cruising speed [the highest available for a "drop out" pumpkin is 3.08 which is still lower than your 2.74 overall ratio] I cant see the point of making 2 modifications to get the same results as one [a 5 speed] The goal should be to make it more civilised in the modern world [be able to survive in traffic, cruise on the freeway, and sometimes the occasional skid ] which is very achievable and reasonably cheap if thought is put into the whole package
I’d rock the 4 speed I had then I’ve got a NWC and WC 5 speed at the house. The WC is hooked to one of those roller engines folks talk about. It makes better sense to use that instead of this old junk I’m using Sometimes things aren’t supposed to make sense. I just like old crap. Even keeping the OE drums and manual steering.
Just like me ..... With my 57 Chevy 283 with 3 on the tree and "truck" sized manual steering wheel. But I never use the damn thing [I have a hybrid to be sensible in, and a race car to be stupid in] Thar is Us and not Bryan Boswell. He really needs to evaluated what he really wants before he starts chasing Unicorns [His post #1 gave us a few clues] Sometimes the best advice is "DO NOTHING" just leave the damn thing alone.
I’d rock that truck Kids granny geared 61 c40 is fun to drive. The 283 is planed to be my daily so I can leave my modern LS contraption at home
That's is exactly what I want to do. I loved driving the car the way it was but highway driving is annoying with people up.ur ass constantly, and yea a burn out here or there would be the wildest id ever get with it
This thread has gone on a long time . . . at this point you need to made some decisions and plan as such. The SBC 283 vs 350 horse has been beat to death. Pick your poison . . . or both of them.
Is your Impala bench seat or bucket seats and console? I was chatting to a friend [here in NZ] who said "Forget the TKO 500/ 600 because the trans tunnel needs to be chopped" So that was another great idea "shot to shit" He said the absolute easiest "have your cake and eat it" swap is a 3+1 trans [Chevy MY6 transmission] from a 1981 to '86 Chevy van /pickup This is actually a Chrysler "New process A833" 4 speed [3+1] 3rd gear is an overdrive and they flipped the 3-4 shift lever upside down. The Chevy version is also known as the New Process 440 has an aluminum case and uses the same transmission mount as the Muncie and is the same length, same 10 spline input ,and same shifter position. first gear 3.09, second gear 1.89, third gear 1.0:1, and OD is 0.73:1 Reverse is 3:1 You could probably source one for less than selling your Muncie [the internals are tough enough for a Hemi] Here is a photo [blatantly plagiarised off the interwebs] With a little bit more work, a T5 is a viable option [crossmember relocation, driveshaft shorten 2" , speedo drive etc]
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