Hot Rods 56 Buick conked out yesterday

I replaced the points and condenser and put a new coil in the 56 wagon and thoufgt I would take her for a test drive and to test the brakes {I replace all the lines}and the rest of the stuff I just did. Went to the post office with no problem then sat in line for about 5 minutes at Walgeeens waiting on my meds. As I was pulling away from the drive up window she conked out and wouldn't restart. The manger came out and help push that monster out of the way. I checked and saw I had fuel and I also had spark{not the brightest}.I had run the battery down so I called my step son and after about 10 minutes of sitting she fired up with a jump start. This is the 2nd time shes done this .She did in just idling in the drive way last week. Not sure what to look for but I do have a rubber hose running from the gas tank to the carb{for the past 2 years} so I don't know if that's the problem. I went out and bought 13 feet of metal fuel line and will install it when I am feeling a little better. {got the crud}Any ideas would be welcomed and Thanks. Bruce.

 

I can't remember, did you drop the tank and clean it? Mine did this when there was crap in the tank.

 

For sure ditch that rubber line, Bruce. One miss-placed piece of road debris and you could become a fireball. It has the classic symptoms of vapor lock after sitting and waiting at the Walgreens.

 

Take the new stuff out & replace with what you took out. New parts today last about as long as the drive you took ...

 

Did you use a dwell meter or a Matchbook when you set the points....as said above new points suck, best to find old stock replacements (Delco, etc) or convert to electronic

 

Ididntdoit, I set them with a feel gadge, then checked the next day with the dwell meter and they were right on the money.Thanks Bruce.

 

Inked Monkey, I did drop and clean it but the 2 filters are still catching a little dirt.Bruce.

 

I would check a couple things:first of all is there any part of the fuel line that runs close to the exhaust manifold or the heat riser section of the intake? Being too close could cause vapor lock.Could be something in the tank that is floating around and occasionally blocks the flow.I had this happen to my Safari when I was driving along.Turned out that when the previous owner had the tank sender out instead of buying a gasket he sealed it up with that black monkey snot silicone and a piece fell into the tank and blocked off the flow.
When you cleaned the tank did you have it seal coated inside? Possibly some rust or scale has dislodged.
If it were me I'd check the first option.Doesn't sound electrical to me unless one of the coil wires(to the distributor ) is loose and moving around.

 

Lothiandon, is there any cure for vapor lock? Thanks Bruce.

 

safariknut, I think you might be right.ThanksBruce.

 

Did you replace the coil...??? Bad ones can do that - simply quit...and then refire...

R-

 

I'd pull that tank and have it cleaned while your changing your fuel line.
I agree, a coil could do that too.

 

you said not the brightest spark maybe check the wires to and from coil could be broken and you cant see it. you know just a few strands holding it together.

 

Two wooden clothes pins on the "metal" fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. Acts like a heat sink and it's traditional.
.

 

..............Like safarinut said above, just make sure you route the fuel line away from heat sources as much as possible, but as others have mentioned, if there's junk in the tank it could be the issue as well.

 

Pull the tank and have it hot tanked at a radiator shop,,I would replace all the hard lines to the tank also. HRP

 

The best cure for vapor lock is a return to the tank so fuel keeps flowing.

 

You said you have fuel but a weak spark. I would be checking the coil & condenser. On a flathead that is the major culprit for the dreaded vapor lock. On my GMC 454 the coil has a tendency to lose its' ground & the result is no fire @ the plugs. Weak or bad ground or coil getting too warm.

 

X2! Yup, had it happen to me. Frustrating as heck until you figure it out.

 

On the subject of fuel line problems, I had a weird one on the '38 Ford pickup--no problem with the line or the pump. It would just die going down the road, like it ran out of gas, only it had half a tank. The pickup tube inside the tank had a hole rusted in it. As long as the fuel was above the hole, it was fine. When it dropped below that point, the fuel pump would start sucking air instead of gas, and it would act like I ran it out of gas. Plugged where the line went into the tank. Made a new pickup tube, drilled through the base of the sending unit to route a new pickup tube into the tank. Hasn't died on me since.

 

40StudeDude, I put a new one in when I replace the points and condenser.Thanks Bruce.

 

Petejoe I am going to pull the tank as soon as I get feeling a little better.ThanksBruce.

 

Oldman, I will check that .Thanks for the information.Bruce.

 

Fireengine, REALLY? Well I do have clothes pins so I will try it .ThanksBruce.

 

H.R.P. Its a rubber hose running from the tank to the carb.I will drop the tank and I just picked up 13 feet of metal fuel line.Thanks Bruce.

 

To all of you guys thanks for the help.I wil. let you know how I make out.Bruce.

 

When I cleaned my tank, I added a sock filter to the pickup to get crap from blocking it.

 

Fireball- sounds like a good name for an engine...

 

Ink Monkey , where did you get your sock filter or did you make it? Thanks Bruce.

 

The sock filter is not cloth. It is like woven plastic, or some may be a metal mesh. I know the repoppers make them for Chevys, so if you can 't find one for the Buick, try Danchuks or the like.