Getting my dad’s 49 Plymouth convertible it’s a basket case. It has no engine or trans. Frame looks really solid. I would like to move the shocks out the AArms and move the engine over 1-1/2. Probably go with a Chevy 350. But hz cool stuff is closed where can I get parts from. Any help appreciated Thanks Tony
Hey there Tony, just my 2 cents but SBCs are like belly buttons, blah, blah,blah..... Why not a Mopar small/big block? Even maybe you could score a good 318, they run great and speed parts are still around. Something to think about. Mitch
With the LA engine you should use the driver side exhaust from a 68-71 A-body. It wraps nicely around the steering shaft. The top shock can mount with the early Ford pickup mount...1950 or so. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...m570.l1311&_nkw=ford+f1+shock+mounts&_sacat=0
Did this years ago.....chevys are still pretty much available..if you get lucky and find a running 318-340-360 running drivetrain by all means go for it..I have not seen any available for a while now.....
Heres more.....Hot Rods are all about .......Hot rodding....https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chev-v8-into-49-52-plymouth.1277295/
Check the rockers, the floor around the base of the A pillar/front of the door and the area where the trunk floor meets the sides. Rust can make a quick awakening into a major resto. A SBM fits nice and easy where the straight six flathead was.
The biggest issue with putting any V8 in where the Mopar flathead 6 used to be is steering column clearance. Moving the motor 1 1/2" towards the right side of the car solves the steering column clearance most of the time. No special exhaust manifold needed. You may need to notch the crossmember at the front of the motor so you have belt and belt pulley clearance. You may have to trim the center X on the transmission crossmember for driveshaft clearance, if the car still has the X in the frame. You may have to fabricate a transmission crossmember. If you can't figure out how or where to buy a universal motor mount kit, and make it work for you, maybe the project is over your head, those kits are pretty easy to come by. The shock relocation on the frame can be done with the Ford or Dodge truck bolt on the frame mounts, but you may have to weld them to the frame. That late 40 & early 50s Mopar frame is boxed in that area the shock mount will be located. Most V8s are about 2" -4" shorter then the Mopar flathead 6. The OEM Mopar flathead radiator probably won't work to cool the V8. Between the "new" radiator and maybe a clearance notch for a rear mounted distributor, that shouldn't be a big issue. If the V8 installation sounds too hard, modern V6 motors have more power then the flathead and are much shorter. At this point in history, any old car on the road is better then any concern about what brand of motor is moving it. Any of the old traditional motors are getting harder to come by.
The Chev rams horn exhaust manifold that has the outlet tilting back clears the steering box if you place the motor in the right spot.
318 fits well with A body exhaust manifolds and rear sump oil pan, no need to notch front crossmember. I only dinged back the firewall about 1” to miss the passenger side valve cover on my ‘51. Inner fenders need to be narrowed in engine compartment. I imagine a SBC would fit well also, but it is nice to be all MoPar.
I would say you seem to have a slanted view of this project. Very dependable engines, but the cool factor would be a small block Mopar. A 340 would be the performance option if so inclined.
Slant 6's are hard to transplant due to the head hitting the firewall or heater box on the passenger side. Most cars have the firewall recess in the center, doesn't work with a slant 6.
On top of what is already listed, the slant 6 is a couple inches longer then the flathead. There are lots of fitment issues using a slant 6 in the 50s cars. A V8 is easier, or a V6 would be the easiest.
My cutt off wheel says it will fit just fine Stuffing a non spark plugged engine in a ride now. No fitment issues when you move things out of the way
I saw a local one done up, maybe a '51 or '52 wagon. It had a 318/360 in it plus a Volare or Diplomat front stub under it. Quite sanitary and all the modern comfort you could ask for.
A slant 6 is not really a good swap as it’s too long. I guess anything fits if enough is cut out. I used a Scarebird disc brake setup, all MoPar parts, to get away from the stock dual wheel cylinder drum design. A bigger sway bar and relocated shock mounts with correct length shocks are an easy suspension upgrade without frame changes. This setup has been on the road for 20 years in my ‘51 wagon and has been very satisfying.
I had a ‘50 Dodge with a 318/727 combo. I bought it with the V8 already installed, I did have to modify the passenger side inner fender to facilitate changing plugs. I also installed a dual master cylinder. The car ran great, and would burn rubber at the drop of a hat…
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