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Projects 33 chevy 3w....time for a cool change

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by tb33anda3rd, Feb 11, 2014.

  1. I used Auto Meter gauges in my 33 Chevy but mine is a master so the layout is different. I used some black walnut from a tree we cut down to put up my garage for the panel behind the gauges.
     

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  2. Sprockmonster
    Joined: Dec 25, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Sprockmonster
    Member

    Ever played with LED's?
     
  3. that looks good. my car has two big holes and two small. the speedo will use one of the large holes, mechanical oil, and temp will fill the small holes......but what to do with the other large hole? the original is half oil and half fuel, so ideally change over to a twelve volt fuel unit and change the oil to a voltmeter.
    but.....
     
  4. i bought a six gauge sw wing gauge set from speedy bill; black faces/white letters, looks a lot like the originals. the temp and oil will be put into the two small holes to replace the temp and amp my dad had put in. the speedo will replace the original.
    now i just need to cut open the new tach housing [to use the matching bezel], try to rob the divider out of the original, then cut the new gauges apart [volt and fuel] and install the guts into the former tach housing. problem is one will be upside down so a new face will have to be made and the needle will swing right to left.
     
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  5. do you have any?
     
  6. Sprockmonster
    Joined: Dec 25, 2013
    Posts: 35

    Sprockmonster
    Member

    They're very accessible... But they might look out of place when backlighting gauges...
     
  7. started with all new gauges, and started cutting, prying and unscrewing to get a pile of this;:eek:
     

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    ct1932ford likes this.
  8. the guts of the volt and fuel gauges will fit the tach housing, both in the up right position. i made a plate that will hold the two together with the faces overlapping but the swing of the needles clear of each other.
     

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  9. i then used some paper/cardboard to make a couple template for the new "filler panel". it is like the original but not exact. i like it!
    next i will make a permanent one from thin sheet metal.
     

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    ct1932ford likes this.
  10. Nice work. Can't wait to see the finished product.
     
  11. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member


    The 1933 Chevrolet master SERIES CA has a 112" wheelbase and the 1933 Chevrolet STANDARD SERIES CC has a 107" wheelbase.


    Your car with a rumble seat is correctly called a SPORT COUPE. The standard series has very low production in comparison to the master series. The master series is also called the eagle series, but the standard series is only called just that, there is no known advertisements by GM calling it the MERCURY SERIES , yet that name constantly comes up.

    The standard series is easily picked out by the up and down louvered hood, the master eagle has the doors.

    I have always liked the 33 Chevrolets because they still have the face of the 32 in the front sheet metal, I call it a transistion year in styling.

    I have a 1935 Chevrolet standard series coupe, since 1970
    I have a 1935 Chevrolet standard series roadster since 2012

    mike :D
     
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  12. Mike, if i remember right the standard grill and shell are about an inch narrower. the dash and windshield are also narrower. we think the length difference [in the body] is all behind the passenger compartment, the standard/mercury has a more abrupt drop off.
     
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  13. not finished yet but here is the progress so far; cut and trimmed to fit, the "filler panel". i did this by marking out the metal using the paper template, then drilling a hole in the center of the openings with a hole saw. i then filed the opening to the marks. i kept trimming it till i liked it. i test fitted it all together then took it apart to paint. here is also a picture of the plate that holds the gauges together
     

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  14. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Unfortunately because of the rarity of the 33 standard series I have never actually seen one in person to compare to a 34- 35 standard. According to people that know........the running boards are the same length as 34--35 std, the rear fenders are the same 33--35 std's, the gas tank cover panel is the same, The dash panel on a 33 does not have the raised edge around the gauge insert like a 34-35 std or a 33 master. Like in your pictures posted. I believe they are all the same width. I know 2 people with 1933 Chevrolet std's.....joe Iaccino in Arizona ( [email protected] ) is redoing a 33 sport coupe like yours. Also Glen Rarick in lafargeville NY has one that had a 4 banger iron duke then swapped it out and went with a 4.3 v6 I believe.

    According to my 1933 Chevrolet production Canada for the 33 std SERIES 200 - CC....CHEVROLET FACTORY MODEL NUMBER 264, FISHER JOB # 33-528 for the 4 passenger sport coupe rumble seat.....we produced a total of 77 units. They only made the coupe 2 models and the 2 door sedan. I do not have USA production figures.

    NOTE...running board rubber mats for 1933 Chevrolet standard series reproduction is non existant and will not be reproduced due to low original production. Your only alternative is to use 1934-1935 std running board mats and very carefully shorten them at the rear by removing 6" of rubber. If done properly and with some thought should be almost impossible to spot they have been shortened. I actually have a pair of great 33 std running board metal backing plates that the rubber mounts too. I have not decided what to do with them yet. I am hoping to use them on a pair of 34=35 run boards. www.iandireproductions.com is the best source of 33--35 std parts repo.

    I am not sure but I think that the body across the trunk lid/rumble seat is narrower than the 34-35 cars.

    JOE Iaccino is very knowledgable on 33 standards and can answer the questions regarding the possible body differences on 33 std and 34-35 std's.

    I am enjoying reading about your 33 standard sport coupe.

    mike lynch
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
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  15. thanks for the info Mike! i will need to put a new rubber mat on the running boards. they are still there but the rubber is a mess. my dad had a set of white vinyl covers made, that snap over the rubber. when i started fixing it up i painted them black. my plan is to get the new rubber mats, then have a new set of covers made like my dad made.
     
  16. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Your welcome....the 1934 1935 standard series rubber mats are in stock at I&I repo, price is $250 a pair + shipping and you need their special contact cement to glue them to the original metal backing plates.

    Not sure about the wood construction for rumble seat lid on a 33 std, but 34- 35 standard with rumble seat has wood slats that go from side to side that the back rest cushion attaches too. My roadster has the rumble seat ( it comes stock that way ) and that's a whole wood framework. That wood needs to be oak or northern ash, and coated with a bunch of coats of varnish to seal it against moisture.

    Your coupe should also have a roll down rear window ??? and there is a metal drip tray that fits under it and is tilted to one side with a drain to go to the ground thru a hose.

    You were correct to make a tray for the floor for behind the rumble seat. Its really needed to direct the water out of the car, a couple of tubes in each corner with rubber lines attached downward will correct a bad factory original design. The rumble seat part of my metal floor for the foot area looked like it had been shot with a shotgun it was so destroyed. I was able to reproduce the original floor thru a sheet metal shop with a brake.

    mike lynch
     
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  17. Mike, is the I&I stuff any good? i bought some stuff from them that was not so good.
    the wood i used, to repair the rumble lid, was ash, i am sure i replicated the original design. the seat cushion must need two tabs that stick up and slide under a couple steel strips that span a dado on the upper edge. i am guessing it had a couple screws at the bottom to secure it. i will take some pictures. i thinned out some "derusto" enamel, to paint it with.
    the window does roll down and the original tray is in place and working. the rear floor tray just had holes in the corners that let the water drain out. i did the same. what is the bad factory design?
    do you have pictures of your car? Ted
     
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  18. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Ted, I personally have never had any problems with the parts I have purchased from I&I repo. Tail light rims & gaskets. The bulb covers on the stock tail light pots. Rubber parts and general stuff. I am just about to order a pair of 34-35 running board mats and rocker panel aluminum molding to hold the carpet down.

    The seat back for the rumble seat attaches to the trunk lid with metal brackets on the wood where the seat back springs slip into the bracket. I am not sure what attaches the seat back at the bottom. Some type of metal bracket attached to the seat back then screwed to the wood framework.??

    The bad factory design, is the drip down onto the rear floor area into just a couple of holes. That's just asking for the panels to get water damaged and then rusted out. The proper way in my opinion is to have it so that the water dripping into the trunk area has only one way to get out and not get anywhere else in the trunk. Because you have a rumble seat its different than the regular non rumble seat . The metal drain channels on the sides only go as far as to let the rumble seat pivot. A non rumble seat car with trunk has the channels full length down each side and then all the way across the bottom to capture the water, it has holes in each end with rubber tubes to take it thru the floor and onto the ground.

    The rumble seat lid has a special lip on it at the bottom to direct the water towards the drain pan and out the holes. I am turning my rumble seat into a non rumble seat trunk complete with a full channel drain system.

    I don't know how many people over the years have asked me on my coupe if I have a rumble seat back there. They are really disappointed when I say no and explain to them that if I had a rumble seat, the trunk lid handle would be at the top not the bottom. They get this really sad look on their face when I tell them. I also tell them to look for a step pad on the bumper on the right and also a step pad on the right fender. That will be a rumble seat equipped car. You would step on the bumper with your left foot, then on the fender with your right , then very carefully swing your left leg over the quarter panel and step on the seat cushion, trying not to damage the paint.

    Last summer I asked a guy who asked me about a rumble seat, " if I had a rumble seat you would want to get in there wouldn't you ???? " Oh ya is answer. " And what exactly do you think is going to happen when you get in there " ? People don't know, its just some kind of magic place to them.!!!!! I am very happy to be having another trunk where I can mount the battery, install all the polk audio sterio amp components and 12" sub box and a place to put a suit case for travelling to a meet.


    Contact me at [email protected] and I will be happy to share pictures I have of my 35 coupe and the rumble seat wood frame for the deck lid.

    mike
     
  19. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,792

    The37Kid
    Member

    Ted the folks from I&I have been at Hershey for as long as I can remember, we bought a lot of '39 Chevy stuff from them for two cars at Franks shop. I was so impressed with the quality I've bought some parts that I'll use on my Roadster some day. I got bumped off the HAMB last week and it has taken this long to get a new password, lots of stuff to catch up on. See you Sunday at the Trunk. Bob
     
  20. Mike and Bob, i will rethink purchasing from them. Bob i will be at the trunk in the morning, i will look for you.
    painted the white on the dash and rear window garnish moulding last night and taped off the center of the dash and painted black on it and the windshield and side window garnish moulding. i have been thinking of the two toned painted dash since i saw F&J's 32. i will take pictures tomorrow.
     
  21. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    besides I&I your other choice for a major supplier of 33 chev parts is, THE FILLING STATION, they will send you a catalogue for free.

    Lynn Steele rubber parts in Denver NC makes a lot of rubber parts for 33's.

    mike lynch
     
  22. these are the suppliers i usually rely on. thanks
     
  23. couldn't help putting the speedometer in to get see how it will look! i painted it with some lacquer i had left over and it needs to sit before i buff it out.
     

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  24. DSCF2887.JPG nice cool spring evening....
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2016
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  25. Dash looks really NICE!!!
     
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  26. thanks, i think it has a late '50's early '60's look.
     
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  27. Love this picture!:cool: must be a relative:rolleyes:
     
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  28. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,792

    The37Kid
    Member

    We too, this is what the Bobcat and Bear get to see when the sun goes down. Bob


     
  29. i was walking up from the garden and couldn't resist getting the camera and taking the picture.
     
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