Good to know. My plan for now is to finish the chassis mock up this summer and fall, blow the chassis apart for final welding and detailing, and paint it over the winter. For now, I'm planning on putting the body, unpainted, back on to drive it next summer and do the bodywork then, and then paint the body the following winter...this is plan A
If you are going to put stock type windlace around your doors, you may want to pay attention to the gaps. I had the guy that is going to do the interior on my pos glass body come over to have a look-see and he said that unless I wanted to run really big windlace that I would have to close the gap up. I built the interior edges up so I could use the standard 3/8" windlace. I know the body that you have is far superior to mine, but the gaps in the pics look pretty big. Not being critical, just trying to help. Dennis D
Jig made from an old bed frame to hold engine in place so I can trailer the car to the welders for motor mount install. Also holds engine in correct position for welding.
Loving this thread. I currently have a roadster made by Failane ( now New Age Motorsports). Loved their 5w when I viewed it a show a couple of years ago. NAM made some heavy reinforcements and cage work to Fairlanes bodies. I think it's the finest glass body on the market. NAM really did their homework. Best wishes on your build.
Sine I had to move the Pete and Jakes motor mounts back an inch to clear the steering box, I made up some spacer plates.
I asked over on the deuce board but thought I'd ask here too. I'm considering doing something similar on my 3 window but am concerned about cracking, Did you brace the backside? Do you have a pic of the backside of the door?
I did not have to add a backing plate. The lip where I mounted the mirror is solid glass. I did countersink the holes. They tightened right up. Worked good.
Changed the rear coilovers from Carrera's with a 11" installed height to a QA1 with and 8" installed height and got it down a little further. The old coilovers, even with the spring adjustment backed off all the way, where too high and left to much of a gap between the tire and fender. For my taste anyway. Plus the longer shock, when backed off all the way was no longer in the correct position to correctly utilize the stroke of the shock. Since the car was now so much lower I had to relocate the panhard bar mount from the top of the differential, to the side of the diff for trunk floor clearance. I shortened the panhard bar and rethreaded it. I may actually have to cut the trunk floor for a little more differential to trunk floor clearance, and put in a hump. We will see. Top picture is with the old shocks, bottom with the new. Thinking I will bring the rear back up just a little.
Mounted with washers for now. I will add welded in tabs to the crossmember later when the body comes off for paint.
...Limeworks 32" hotrod column, 4" limeworks drop, Grant 13.5" Classic Cruzin 502 wheel with 3.5" dish.
Next up is Moon pedal linkage and getting the brake pedal squared away. Kind of weird its mounted on the Lucky 7 frame on the left side of the column, where the clutch would be. I mounted the column high enough to clear the brake pedal which is a Harley brake pedal from an older project.
I have a New Age body. They cure ther bodies in a heated booth. my car is 8 years old no problems . car is on ther web site
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