Hot Rods '28-'36 King pins

I have searched and can't find my answer. Tomorrow I am going to buy new replacement king pins for my stock A axle with stock A spindles, but with disc brakes. The king pins I found at are listed for '32-'34. I thought '28-'36 were the same kit. Am I wrong, or are they the same with just different part numbers.
I know I just need to cut the tops off, and grind smooth, and put a frost plug on it to clean it up. Or is easier to get '37-'48 flat top pins, and grind a slot for the lock pin. How accurate does the pin slot have to be. I would have to use a hand grinder, as thats all I have. I will do some and check it.

Pat

 

Anyone have any info on this, I need to find out about these, so I can get them, or not tomorrow.

 

I would use the 37-48 pins, with the thrust bearing between the spindle and axle the lock pin groove will line up. The earlier pins are hollow of course, and cutting another groove would be hard to locate perfectly as well as making the pin that much weaker compared to the later ones.

 

I think the difference is the mechanical brake boss

 

36's are unique to themselves.

 

I have Model A spindles, so the bearing will not fit between the axle and the spindle. Only on the top.
I'm thinking I will go with the '32-'34's that I can get. I don't think I need to go through the hassle of putting in the slot, only cutting the cup off. I have never heard of anyone braking a new Model A king pin (or a old one).

Thanks, for your input

Pat

 

Yes you are right, the bearing wont fit between the axle and A spindle oops. I think the only differance between the later 32-36 pins is the orientation of the cup, whick wont matter in your situation as it will be removed. I will look for a thread that has more info and pics.

 

I can't scan and place the article right now, but what I have done many times is something I found in a late seventies issue of 1001 Rod and Custom Ideas. You use '37-'40 king pins and a Torrington bearing and two Torrington races between the axle and spindle. You don't have to grind a new slot, or mess with taking the brake cups off the top, so it's nice and clean. The only "work" is shortening the lower end of the king pin itself. The Torrington's are available at any good bearing warehouse.

 

I have thought of using the Torrington bearings, but was told there is no way to keep them clean. So you have to remove them, and regrease them every year or so, depending on how much, and where you drive.
I bought the '32-'34 pins today, for what I thought was a good price. They will be here next week, so I have time to decide which way to go yet (Wouldn't be the first time I changed my mind). Besides, I'm have a hell of a time removing the old ones. The axle is on my bench. I used blaster on it for a week, and then heated it, but not over hearted, and the used a 3/4" aluminum round stock, with a flat end as a punch , and hit it a couple of good hits! It swedged out, and locked it in! Bummer, I drilled it out with a 3/4" drill bit, past the first bearing, and it still held it solid, but finally came out. The same thing happened to the other side, and I tried to be easy on it. I have it drilled also, but will get back to it in a day, or so. Rrrr. I'm going to hate to do the perch bolts.

Pat