Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

You're welcome Jeff, one thing I forgot to mention, my 34 had a set of 32 pedals installed at
some point. The 32 pedals have a nut on the back of the pad, so check for a nut.

 

I'd just slit the rubber seal, then glue the slits with some urethane or other rubber-type glue.

If he has an early '33 it would have come factory with pedal pads using a nut. They didn't switch to threaded arms until part way through '33. Maybe the pickups were where the factory used up all the old stock?

 

There's no nut. Looks like a rivet on the back side. I'd like to remove the pedals so I can cast new pads on them. I'll give it one more shot and then just slit the pad and glue with some neoprene contact cement like alchemy suggested.

 

My '33 pedal pads are threaded into the pedal arms.
A quick lick of heat would most likely get them to turn

 

What looks like a rivet is probably the end of the pedal pad stud poking through the threaded portion of the arm. If you don't mind messing up the rubber a bit, put a really big pipe wrench around the outer edge of the pad and give them a crank.

 

The rubber is already toast. I plan to cast my own new pads onto the pedals. Haven't had a chance to try and turn them again...work keeps pulling me away from the truck...

 

Still couldn't get the pedals off. I just slit the seal and placed it around the levers. Have some contact cement to glue them back. That's just fine with me.

Another question: I'll be receiving my Al heads and manifold next week. I realize that my stock oil filter canister won't be able to mount in the current location without some modification. I think I've got a few options:
1) Modify the mount, bolt it to the firewall and make some new lines
2) Replace head studs with longer ones, dd spacers underneath the flat mount to space the canister above the fins on the head
3) Ditch the stock filter and add a spin on bolted to the firewall or somewhere else

I did see on here that somebody modified a canister to use a spin-on filter inside. Not sure it gains me anything except stock appearance.

Below is the picture of the stock canister mount bolted to the driver's side head.

Thoughts?

 

4th option: ditch the canister and plug the holes. Lot of us run flatties with no filter at all...just change the oil more often.
Johnny

 

Spin-on filter inside sounds COOL! I'll have to check into this-

 

I hadn't even considered that option...interesting.

 

Here's the link I found here on JJ for the mod:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...last-nights-bright-idea.982979/#post-11067788

 

How about some long nuts (coupler nuts) on the original studs, to space it up above the fins? Then a short bolt into the top side of the coupler nuts to mount the filter.

I have a few weird old nuts with a stud out one end that were made for this purpose. I got them with a bunch of other flathead stuff many years ago. Maybe a place like McMaster-Carr has something like this still?

 

That's a good idea. That way, I don't have to remove the studs from the block (which I'd rather not do). McMaster should have them, but shipping always kills me. My local hardware shop will have them as well. Just need to figure out length, and then make new lines to the housing... Like this one!

 

Very pretty truck. Hard to improve upon that.

 

Got some go-fast parts delivered today

 

And my wife's uncle gave me this. Not sure what it does or how to use it. Ah...figured it out. Kinda cool.

 

I used a remote mount on my truck. The engine just simply looks so much "cleaner" without the big bulky oil filter housing sitting right on top. Can you demonstrate the con-rod gauge for us? Tim

 

So I was checking out the heads after I unpacked them, and noticed that they are both stamped with the word "MOON" just above the top rib next to the water fill neck (in the red circle).
Anybody have an idea of what this means?

 

Here are closer pictures of the "MOON" stamps on the heads...

 

Are they modified in any way?

 

Maybe? Have a look...

 

Could use a bit of guidance here. I'm cleaning up the Edmunds and the 97's. Since the Edmunds is an open manifold, I think I'll run a progressive throttle setup and use the front carb as the primary. The question is: What jets should I run on each carb (primary and secondary)?

 

Should run both carbs at once. Or the front holes run lean.

 

I had heard that, but won't the rear holes run fat if I run both at once? Since this is a regular dual, the front carb is centered on the manifold, which is open plenum. I would have thought that this would be an even distribution of fuel, and I could have the secondary kick in later. At higher RPM's, it should distribute more evenly with both open?

 

I did get the truck out to a spot where I thought it would be fun to take some pictures. These were taken near our local feed mill. This building is called the "Trolley Barn".

I don't care what all the "experts" say, but I think the wood bed sides gave it more character. After all, it really isn't a "hot rod". Go ahead, flame me............

 

The fuel distribution problem is why the "super" dual is better. But back carb first is gonna make the fronts very lean. It isn't an open log style tri power.

 

Had my right rear fender repaired this week at diFalco Fab. He did an awesome job. Just what I was hoping for.

 

Cut the farm weld out and welded in a patch.

 

This last week, I did finally get a matched set of V8 hubcaps on the truck, and also test mounted my tach and turn signal units...just to see if I'd be bangin' them with my knee...
I'm also starting work on a "sub-dash" panel to house the '47 gauges under the main dash. I have a pattern, now I just need to figure out how to pound a flat sheet into the pattern...

 

I found some long, mag wheel nuts that were threaded all the way through (open ended). Should be quality enough to torque down on the original studs, then bolt the filter to the nuts. Just a suggestion.