Yes that is the Chevy crank. The counter weights were welded on in '48 or 9 when the engine was first built as a race engine.
Crown Wheel & Pinion options I know the 3:1 Model T will bolt straight into a pre 1925 Chev rear end but does anyone know of high ratio replacement for the 1925+ Chev diff. I seem to recall a Model A used in a Chev but I think it required some mods.
I'm cheating and going with a later ('40 truck) rear that has juice brakes... will have to check my ratio and options as well
Seems I read, somewhere here on the HAMB, about a fellow that welded his own rods. Would take rods that fit, and spliced in a extension... Being the novice that I am, how much difference does even a quart inch, make? I can imagine it makes a little, but does it make enough to even notice? Rusty
With everything stock the compression is 4.75 to 1 Every 1/4 inch that you add to the piston/rod adds another .25 to the ratio--so instead of 4.75 to 1, you get 5 to 1 I have run 6.5 to one in a C/4 with regular gas (Ford rods, and homemade pistons). If you want to go higher, my gut feeling is that you need some "squish"--that is a part of the piston that comes up to about .060" of the head (read-http://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05) This was the idea behind the 9.3 motor that had Ford rods and GMC 270 pistons-which ran regular fine--but the pistons require welding the expansion slots in the skirt up, and then a LOT of machining. Right to left- 261 Chevy, Hercules OX with skirt considerably shortened,m the one that Homemade--2 piece, welded. Cant find the pix of the modified GMC 270. I'm probably the one that posted the bit about welded rods that you remember. It was posted it this forum but the worthless search thing cant find it, Suffice it to say that the welded rod was in a low RPM motor, <2800RPM. There was a story in the post about a race car that had this done as an emergency fix, thats where I got the idea. If someone can find the post, I would appreciate it greatly. Right now I have to quit here, but this evening I will post more concerning this. Herb
Jimmy- THANK YOU ! I was going to rewrite as much of that as I could remember, and you saved me a heck of a lot of work--I owe you! So--post 120 is on page 6. Also some thoughts on rods are on page 7, post 138. Herb
Johnson overdrive does anyone have info on the Johnson overdrive. appears to be a good fit for chev 4 and apparently someone was reproducing them in recent times. Also what clutch & pressure plate combos are folks using. I undertsand a 9" Chev Camaro is a good fit. I suspect series Landrovers used a 9 or 9 1/2 inch with a 10 spline plate which may be more readily available down my way. Not sure if the plate will fit chevy spline but pressure plate may be suitable with a Billy Possum chev4 plate. any thoughts? Kume
Sorry for the delay- will be able to get into the garage this weekend (have band camp these next 4 days)...
No problem! i can whait a few more days hehe Found it at facebook got it in the mail a few weeks later costed me about 300$ yes, yes i am!
That is real hot roddin'. I was looking into putting a Studebaker V8 head on a Model A. It would be easier if I could find one of the after market aluminum Stude heads.
What makes you want to put a Stude head on an A block? Will you need to split it to aline the bores with the combustion chambers?
Yes it would have to be cut like they do with the small block heads used to make a crossflow head for Chevy sixes. Valve spacing is right and in the right order. Some deck work would have to be done. I was thinking about it a couple of years ago when there was a very soft Bonnevelle record in one of the vintage 4 classes. Someone took care of that for me so I'm back in the couch potato mode.
I am not running anything, however i expect to be there in support of Bob Dalton and the whole Flashpoint A/BFS crew. They had top speed of the meet last week at the Test and Tune @ 341.706. On the short course.
I do. The pictures above look familiar. They're mine. Wish I could find someone to reproduce this overdrive in the $1500-2000 range for the good of the Chevy community. The stumbling block always seems to be that small gear with the semi-blind square hole. From what I can tell, it was originally made with a Watts Bros. drill but nobody seems to know what that is. They want to use an EDM sinker.
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