A few years ago I mentionned that I have problems with ISKY camshafts, 2 of them were not align to the spot...I decided to stop buying aftermarket cams and send my originals to camtechnique, very good company that has done a great job, then CompCam propose their new cam for ford flatheads, so I decided to try one, and guess what...got one with 6° of the spot as well... Anyone else had the issues?? Thanks Pete
Yep, I got one too. Same thing. the cam was ground straight up, instead of 5 deg advanced like the card says it should be. Called them and they said I was the first one that ever had a problem. Wanted me to send it back to them. This is after them cam is in and all the valves adjusted. I got an adjustable timing gear from Red's and everything is good now. Won't be buying anymore from them.
I always use cam grinders to regrind my cams. Always spot on. Ahhh, i used schneider cams for new cams and they where good too.
I have a schneider, new in box, I'm scared to open the box...lol maybe a SBC camshaft in it, hahahaha
Pete... A lot of old timers around here swear by Chris Nielsen cams. Send him an email and let him know what your after. He has every imaginable grind from all the vintage profiles. Nielsoncams.com Jerome
Guys... Not to hijack, but since I am at my cam choice point, I don't think I am too far off topic. I am building my first flathead, and have been emailing CheatersPete about his cam experiences. I had originally wanted a 400jr, but after hearing story after story about them not being ground right, I am scared to go that route. Who are you guys getting to regrind your cams? I have talked with Cam Techniques about the L100 (highly recommended), am waiting to talk with Jerry at Schneider next week (out of town). How does the quality of a regrind compare to a new cam? I have Johnson lifters, does using a regrind set the lifter too low in the bore to adjust it? When you guys got the thumpr cam straightened out, how did you like it? I know they sound good, do they run ok as well? Pete1, can you grind a 400jr? Sam
I have a L100 and it runs well. I would do it again. Runs well and has "the sound". I have adjustable lifters in the motor and got them adjusted. Used the tool for the lifters. Broke the tab off of one of the tools. Not ideal but got it done. If the lifter sets down too low, turn the cam some to raise it up alittle. If you have a bare block, drill the holes for inserting a punch to hold the lifter. Neal
A cam grinder needs more specs of your engine....... If you didnt port the block there is no need to over 0.375 lift so no need for a 400jr 1007b will be fine or L100
I have an L100 in an 8BA it's got a 4/71 blower on top of it which smooths it out some but it's a nice cam. Would not hesitate to run the same again
Ive used a Cam Techniques L100 in a 2x2 258ci 8BA and loved it. Also like Flatoz used the same cam with the lung sitting on top, tamed it down a tad too. I just had another stick ground by Cam Techniques for my 21 stud, looks beautiful, will swap it in over Winter. Never used Isky, Comp or Schneider stuff - yet. Rat
Howard Cams is right here in Oshkosh, so that's where most of mine come from. Been very happy with them.
I bought an Isky 1007B last year, and when I went to degree it in. I found it to be way off. not just retarded or advanced but the opening event was off by 7*-10* the centerline was off by a couple and the closing point was correct. No way to adjust it to make it right. I called Isky and was surprised that they acted like they could care less. They also said they had never had this problem before, which is BS there are a few other instances on this board of the same thing happening. Then I asked for another one and they told me they were out of cores sorry. But luckily Old Bill from the Barn had an old 1007B Regrind from Pete that was dead on and it was a great cam. Sounded pretty mean and pulled like crazy bottom and midrange. Wich is more important (to me anyway) for a street driven flathead.
Yeah, but your engine displacment (284ci) with the added cr helped there , too BTW! Did you port you block?
thers a reason Sears went broke they droped flathead engines, cams and headers they had it all listed in their catalogs when i was a kid
Thats true, but I loved that 1007B grind it was a perfect match for my light car with 3.12 gear and old three speed. No porting or relieving on the block.
Once again I didn't mead to hijack your thread Pete... .040 over merc...262", original edelbrock block letters, offy 3x2, mild port work. Going in a '34 5w with a T5 & quickchange. I had decided on a 400jr until I heard about these accuracy problems & it seems to be fairly widespread...and now it seems that there are problems with the 1007b as well. Still considering a L100 but I haven't heard one without a blower. I like the sound of the 400jr and I know alot of guys like them. Pete1 is recommending a 1007b, and I have heard some good things about the SU-1A & the Potvin 3/8. I know it sounds cliche, but I want it to sound serious... Has anyone bought a 400jr recently & not had problems with it? Who is grinding the SU-1A? I have heard that Schneider is grinding the Potvin's now...anyone know for sure? I appreciate the help guys...and Like Pete originally asked, who else has seen grinding issues with these cams, and whose cams have been dead on? Thanks.. Sam
Hi Sam, You might misunderstand the problem.... Its not the grind, its the grinder(isky in that case) that sucks Pete cams are so spot on that i dont measure them anymore, always perfect I trust his work. Next is what cam to use... A su1 or potvin 3/8 have 280 duration 400jr and 1007b 260 duration More duration, more sound ,but moves the power band up in the rpms Ive used the 3/8 in a 276 ,guess who grind it,and liked much But its a thirsty stick I guess a 1007b and 400jr sound the same as they have similar overlap I thing the 1007b is the better choice for driving..... And not so thirsty The 3/8 will sound meaner......without a doubt, but you kill driving fun An old hot rodder once told me,the good thing about cams that they can be changed!!!
Micky... I understand that the problem is who is grinding the cam. If I knew That I would get a correctly ground 400jr from Isky, I would order it. That's the cam that I am somewhat familiar with, and I like both the performance & the sound. However, since I have read nothing but bad posts about how far off the Isky is ground I am a little scared to go that route. I have serious cams in most of my cars, so I am familiar with running a big cam on the street. More than happy to give up some down low for a real Hotrod sound. This car is being built as a traditional style Lakes car, so I need it to have "the sound". I have pm'd Pete1, but he doesn't offer a 400JR. I have only heard one 1007B, and I wasn't impressed by it. I am seriously considering the L100. Also considering the Potvin 3/8 or Winfield SU-1A. Planning to call Schneider cams tomorrow & see what they offer... I appreciate the help guys...
regarding lifters sitting too low, that can happen if the cam has a real high lift (like the 400 jr). you may not have enough adjustment in the lifter, so using chevy valves (they're longer than flathead stockers) will solve that problem. also, you may have to grind some metal off the top of the lifter bores, and/or drill holes in the lifter bores so you can stick a punch thru to the relief in the lifter to hold it while adjusting. or you may have to use "extra-length" lifters. hope that helps!
Schneider's used to grind a 400 Sr. I was told it was Schneider's version of the 400 Jr. I have one but have not used it yet. Will be going into the motor I am working on now. I also have a L-100 and am happy with that. From looking at the cam specs I think the L-100 and the 400 Sr. are similar. Neal
Let me know when you find someone. Elgin cams in santa rosa is worth a call Dema is a supercool guy with a good senseof humor
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