Ok this is a first for me on here so, go easy on me. I am in the process of building a 6-71 blown 351w for my 47 pickup. I am running larger than spec bearing clearances and a hv oilpump. To feed the pump I need a oversized oil pan but really dont want to spend $300 for an aftermarket pan and pickup. So, I pulled a rear sump oil pan from a 97 Ford F150 truck with the pickup tube for $20 at a salvage yard. 1. I started by leveling the pan and filled it with 5qts of water and marked the depth in the pan. 2. I then measured the engine bay to get an idea of what would fit dimensionally, finally ariving at 11" x 12" and a depth of 5". 3. I calculated the volume of the pan (width x length x height) and converted the cubic inches to quarts. I then subtracted the volume of the factory sump (amount I poured in to hit the depth mark of the added sump) to determine the additional volume being added. This turned out to be 3 quarts. 4. I knew I wanted the factor sump to be the bottom of the pan so I could retain the factor drain plug and pickup tube, so with paper, pencil and a scale I laid out the shape of the sump on paper. I then transfered this to a cardboard pattern to check fit. 5. I then transfered this to my steel (already 11" x 12"), sawed it out and checked fit. 6. I then checked level both ways and marked a line around the pan to mark where the bottom "sat" on the sump. 7. I then drilled 1 1/2" holes (6 total) around the factory sump to allow the oil into the sump. I also believe the factory sump remaining will control the "slosh" of the oil. 8. I then tacked it in place. I also ground the holes closer to the new sump bottom so that all the oil will drain from the pan. I have a handy form tool that makes fitting the curves of the pan closely a littler faster than the measure and trial method. 9. I then fit the "ends" and "sides" of the pan and tacked them in place, taking care to measure and square things as I went. 10. After all the sides were ready to weld, I bolted the pan back to an engine block while I welded it, and left it there until it completely cooled to ensure the pan did not warp. There you go, I used the factory in-block dip stick and and factory pickup tube. Hope this helps sombody else save $$$ on an oil pan.
I have no problem with adding oil capacity and you did a nice job but its not needed just because you added a HV Pump. Just to prove it to some of my customers we put a HV big block pump on a small block circle track car in a lower class that had a "stock appearing" pan rule... no kickouts for extra capacity. Ran all season with no bearing problems. All it did was waste HP turning it.
Thanks guys! I'll try to post up a pic with the painted pan and home made dipstick when I get it mounted up.
What kind of bearing clearances did you run? I am running 0.0032" on the mains and 0.0025" on the rods. This is my first "competition" engine build and I have a good friend helping me out with it. He is a drag racer from way back and I made this pan based on his reccomendations. Thanks for the feedback.
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