I've been out of this hobby for a long time. Is this a more conventional way to get ready to paint??? 1. Etching Primer (the green stuff) 2. Epoxy primer 3. Urathane primer Not use to a three step process... A friend of mine does this schedule on all his stuff. Refered to them as sold in individal {kits} Seems like a pretty involved $$ way to go. Worth it? Boxcar
I used the following: -epoxy primer -hi build primer -sealer -topcoat Go to the local paint store, ask for advice, stick with one product line. I used all PPG Omi products. Fairly cheap and good quality. Prep work is every everything...
I like to keep my products to a minimum, and simple to use. House of Kolor Epoxy. KP-2. Adhesion primer, primer surfacer (for filling scratches/imperfections) and sealer all in one! You can use it first, and fill over it, or fill first, then primer, block sand it relatively esasily, and it seals well, though you might want to use a different color sealer under some colors.
dont use etch with epoxy ! they dont like eatch other.if you use epoxy use the metal conditioners recomended by its maker.look up the tech info on the products you use and follow recomendations ,they know more than we do.
here's some reading on what and why in these threads http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182387 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297587&showall=1 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350749&showall=1 Gene Winfield posted on this thread. His address is listed as Mojave, Ca. A lot of us live in much more humid regions where moisture and "flash" rusting are much more prevalent and we need to be aware of those conditions when working on bare metal projects. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282299 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244070&showall=1
You don't need Etch Primer if you use Epoxy. The only time I use Etch Primer is on a part that was burned in a fire and them stripped or a really rusty body that gets glass blasted. In those cases, Two medium coats of Etch Primer followed by High Build Urethane Primer. On all other situations it is (bare metal, finished bondo work, Lead work, etc) followed by 2 medium wet coats of Epoxy followed by a High Build Primer a couple of hours after the Epoxy. I have had really good luck using Omni Epoxy, U-POL 2025 Highbuild Urethane Primer. U-POl Reface (Polyester Filler Primer), and Matrix Sealer prior to top coating. There are a lot of lesser known brands of paint that perform as well as the "big guys". The big guys' prices have gotten way out of hand. I feel that the best Base Coat is RM - Diamont. I use a lot of different Clearcoats (ie. U-POL, S.P.I., Coating Store, Kustom Shop, Restoration Shop, Transstar, etc....) TCP Global is a great online source for a lot of these products. Good Luck with your project. VR&C.
The following list has served me well for years epoxy onto bare steel, key epoxy and do filler work, seal with 2 more coats of epoxy, then hi build primer tinted to topcoat colour, then topcoat.
Take it for what its worth, FREE. I have tried several different methods over the years. These are all opinion. I do not like polyester primers that go direct to bare metal. not a huge fan of epoxy's. I do all body filler work then, I like to use a good quality metal etch, almost always green. then a coat of Urethane primer. In between coatings of primer I always metal etch bare metal spots before repriming. I have had epoxy chip to bare metal, but not usually on green metal etch.
If your working on newer modern fiberglass the biggest thing is dont sand down through the gelcoat. (you will fight pins holes the whole project) if it is old fiberglass, you can regelcoat it. Fiberglass is about the only thing I would use Polyester primer on since it is closely made up of similar materials.
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