Will I have a problem using split 36 bones and 32-34 spring over perches?

Will I have a problem using split 36 front bones and original 32-34 spring over perches? I was just thinking about how the top part is kinda thick because it extends for a spring in front design. Am I screwed and now regulated to using reproduction parts? Do they even make a longer perch pin for this? I guess I need to start doing some measuring thanks for any help.

 

I am using that same setup.


I just modded the top of the bones last week, redoing the taper is not easy with simple tools ...but i did it anyways.

I took pics, I need to find them.

 

Duh....Mod the bones. sorry....I guess I wasn't really thinking. How far do I need to shave off the top?

 

Some pics of my 35 bones on 35 axle with original Ford 32/34 perches. One good reason to use 35/36 bones is that there is a lot more room under the bone for tie rods when using a drop axle and 37-up spindles and arms, compared to using 32 or 33/34 bones.

The main reasons I did the mod was that it looks better, plus I already had the orig perch bolts, and I prefer Ford parts.

You could cut them with a hacksaw or 4.5 grinder with a cut off wheel. I used my $25 band saw from the scrapyard

Then after sawing, use the 4.5 with a grinding wheel.

Now the hard part is the taper. I did a quick first bore with a fat Unibit to take out most of the material. The Unibit did not wobble with the drill press like I figured it might. It cut sweet.

I really needed a 1-1/16" or bigger drill bit to resharpen to the correct taper...but I don't have one. So I made a mickey mouse bit from a piece of 1/4" high carbon steel, shaped it to have a pilot at the end so it would not wobble. welded it to a 1/2 shaft and dropped it in water to temper it/

Hey it worked perfect on the first bone, but lost temper when I was almost done with the last one. If I was to do it again, I'd get a big drill bit to mod, or mod a fat uni-bit.

Then I hand lapped the perch pins with valve grind compound. Came out nice.

One other thing I did: I needed to change my caster by 4 degrees. So I made a 2 degree cut and took the bone apart, then flipped the bone upside down. Got my 4 degree change and also the ugly full length weld down the entire bone is now on the bottom. It looks better that way.

 

Nice work, I tapered a pitman arm with the caveman Unibit method!

 

I've been called a hack on two other sites i used to go to. I enjoy trying things. Sometimes worn out lathes/milling machines can get depressing, but it's part of being a blue collar grunt.

 

Those look nice!

 

Nice work F&J. You can cut the taper with a 60 degree chamfer bit.

 

I've been looking for a 60 degree chamfer bit/countersink but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if I'd be ordering the correct item. I'm not a machinist (unfortunately). Can anyone direct me to a link or the info that would put me on the right track? It'd be appreciated. I'm racking my brains with this search.

This project is something I need to knock off my list of things to do to get my roadster done and I'd like to do it myself.

 

I've been musing about split wishbone interference with tie rod for 50 years.

I have dropped the spindle arms; (they get too short from king pin when dropped)

I have cut and finished oval windows in the bones for the tie rod to pass thru; (bummer when you have to remove tie rod...king pins have to come out so the tie rod end will drop out)

This is excellent. I really wanted to use split 'bones on my tub, but made hairpins. I have some '36 bones, so am going to 'flatter' you by imitating this operation. Thanks for the in-depth! Solution to a Real problem!

 

Brent,

McMasterCarr.com, website will walk you through it.

 

Awesome, thanks! I was on the right track, I see. I was over-complicating it.

 

I just found that site myself....I could spend a Large fortune there....

 

If and or when you order, request a catalog. It is about 3600 pages, it thicker than a phone book, Great reference material to have in the shop.

 

One last question.

The chamfer/seat diameter of the stock Model A wishbone is almost exactly 1-1/16". I didn't pull the perches out of the bones that I'll be trimming and re-countersinking, yet.

My options for countersinks is either 1" or 1-1/8". Being that the perch countersink is from the 30's (and considering wear) do I go with the 1", 1-1/8", or do I wait and pull out the perches and measure them?



Thanks for your help.

 

Anybody want to throw their two cents worth at this? I assume either would do the trick and the larger of the two bits would get me to match the A wishbones.

 

One inch is not enough, go with the 1-1/8.

Going too big on the tool is not an issue, you just stop when you get to where the perch sits flush at the top of the bone.

I think it ends up at about 1-1/16 dia at the top.