I read on here but cannot find the link. I am building my 54 3100 now on a s10 chassis with the s10 motor, hence the 12v system. I love the look of the OEM gauges and want to keep them. I remember reading that I can get 12-6 volt reducers. Is this a good idea. If so how many will I need? Thank you, Andrew
440roadrunner: i have the same problem...(6v Gauges to 12V gen...) I bought a RUNTZ, the instruction shows for 1 gauge? Do i need 1 for each? or will your "60-70's Ford/ Mopar instrument panel regulator" work for all? (49 Ford w\Gas Oil Temp Alt)
DISCLAIMER: I have never tried them.... BUT... Koolrides sales them https://koolrides.hosting-advantage...ducer&osCsid=38a7f88e2f94a33ea606efa5676bfe1e I met them at the Pistons and Paint show.... seemed like cool guys... And yes, you need one per gauge...
Your ammeter shouldn't care what the voltage is. If you put a resistor in that circuit it may not read anywhere near right, maybe even burn out your resistor. If the ammeter is directly in the charge line, and a lot of the old ones did charge dirctly through the ammeter, do not add anything to that circuit. Is not your oil pressure a mechanical gauge with a tube? Maybe by '54 they used electric. If it is electric you would need to use a resistor or different sender there. Also the gas gauge and temp if that is electric. Put in 12v bulbs and away you go. An original radio would need a voltage reducer/ regulator.
I read about RUNTZ. Thank you guys for your quick responses. I am not 100% sure about the wiring in this truck or even what the back of the gauges look like from memory. I tore into the truck the day I bought it. I am able to solder and wiring though, just rewired my bike and a couple cars before hand. Speedo should be the easy one. Now the other gauge, fuel, temp, oil and amp. Do I need to use 1 runtz for each gauge or 1 for the entire unit? Thank you guys again for your fast responses and help. I appreciate it! Andrew
oldbuzzard is right , the oil and temp gauges appear to be mechanical google found this: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/54162.htm so you need one Runtz for the fuel gauge , nothing on the ammeter.....oil and temp are mechanical so nothing needed. how high does you oil gauge go? you may have too much oil pressure and peg it
Oil reads 0-60. I am to assume this is PSI and not Temp? Is this okay for a 4.3 s10 motor? Thank you Old Buzzard for clearing this up, along with you other guys. This helps greatly! Andrew
Years ago I installed 56 gauges in my 53 gauge panel. As I remember it, it was just nuts and bolts involved, No Monkey Motion along with the 56 sending units. They are 12 volts to start with. The Wizzard
A voltage dropping resistor for the fan motor too!! Thanks 36-3Window. I haven't been into one of those trucks in a long time. I couldn't remember whether those had mechanical or electric oil & temp.
You can take your heater blower motor to N.A.P.A. and get a New 12 volt motor that will bolt directly in using the stock fan blades for under $30.oo. I just did this for my 51 Ford and have done is for the F-100 as well. The Wizzard
Use the electronic reducer, 1 for each gauge. Whole lot cheaper than Runtz, and it regulates to prevent any voltage over 6 V. I am assuming the part listed by prev post is the correct one, I don't have my reference handy. I did a post about this sometime back with the details if you want to search it out. I did this on my 37 Chevy and really only need for the fuel level. Ammeter does not know the difference as stated, speedo, oil and temp are mechanical. Just replace bulbs for 12 volt. Do not use the electronic reducer for heater fan, it needs much more amps than the small electronic can provide. Electronic is limited to about 0.5 amp, enough for a gauge, not for fan. The fan best solution is a replacement 12 volt motor, but you can also use a big resistor. The resistor will get hot. Not much else to worry about, it is really easy and you can use your old gauges.
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