700r4 lockup parts/method question

My parts hauler 1969 C-10 just fragged the converter and took out the front pump on the th400. (The motor is a 93-94 TBI from a rollover that came with a 4spd manual)

I have a complete 700r4 that I'd rather install (better match with my trucks 373 gears) and shelve the short shaft th400 for another project.

I know I'll have to get a TV cable assembly and have read up on the installation and adjustment.

Is a wiring kit the way to go? Anyone have good success with any particular lockup wiring kit (TCI, Painless, etc)? A local shop told me I'd be a fool to use a lockup wiring kit and should just have the valve body changed over to the diesel model for $300-$400? I hadn't heard of the valve body solution and don't necessarily want to drop another $500 in my parts hauler when I could sure use the money getting my 52 on the road. The online references are giving me a headache!

Thanks in advance.

Moderator - I apologize if this is too OT

 

I've only done one of them, wired it up to turn on with a pressure switch when 4th engages. Similar to the TCI setup

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/376600_inst.htm

you might be able to do it like this without buying their kit....it's not really rocket science...

 

Squirrel,

Did you use a TCI or make your own? Was it on one of your rigs? Performing well long term?

Sorry for the additional questions. I had the th400 short shaft built and new converter 52k and 8 years ago and was told by the shop it would outlast the 200hp engine. Apparently not the converter! I know shit happens, not the shops fault, etc.

 

I made my own, it was on another guys car. Wait...I did two of them....one is a friend, I never heard any problems about and the guy drove it for several years before selling the car.

It's pretty simple, a pressure switch and a couple wires. Just make sure you use a normally open switch.

I built a 400 for another friend, it died after not too long when the converter went out... but he was pulling a 10,000 lb trailer with it...yeah, sometimes things go wrong.

 

Just wondering if anyone has a picture of a GM vacuum switch for a 700R4. I have my converter lock up with a manual switch in 4th gear only but sometimes it shifts down pretty hard if I forget to turn the switch off when I slow down. I searched through a wrecking yard but don't know what I'm looking for. Every vacuum switch I've found has 2 lines and more than one wire going to it. Thanx. I know they're available aftermarket but they are quite a bit of money compared to wrecking yard prices.

 

Hey, I have burned a 700 up every way possible, I learn the hard way. The lockup is pretty easy I have used an external pressure switch on all of mine, at least once I learned it was necessary. My dad has collected all the right parts to do it and sells them from time to time or you can go buy one of the aftermarket ones. Between that and makin sure you get the TV cable set right you should be ok. What carb are you running? Or are you still runnin the TBI? You have to make sure the TV cable is pulled properly as well as being set right.
Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.

 

its not so bad if its the right year, older i think is better, they make a few kits, some of them want you to drill the pan and run wires into it which i thought was not a good idea. The year i was putting in a car was later and it was a pita, but the earlier models suppose to be not as bad.

ron francis has a kit that is more simple and straight forward, i think it uses a speed sensor for its lock up

 

I thought I saw a picture of one, but can't find it again.

Here is some other info http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p2.html

I'm still researching this, I've only just slid a 200r4 into my chevy, havent gotten that far yet.

 

I have a top notch local shop, Phoenix Transmissions. They always wired mine up internally when they build them. You feed 12v to one terminal on the plug. Inside, when 4th gear makes, a pressure switch connects and sends the 12v to lockup the converter. This was, when you accelerate and finally hit 4th gear, it locks up. You slow down enough to drop out of 4th, it unlocks. No dash mounted switches or any of that business.

In a 1/2 on truck with 3.73 gears and 28 inch tall tires, it worked exceptionally well for me.

 

has any one used the wire kit that rebel wire co. sells on here ?

 

OK without reading all the other post , I know how to do what you want. The second pressure port from the front is the 4th gear accumulator ( it's on the right side ), install a two wire pressure switch in that , then run a key on hot to one post and off the other run a wire over to the plug on the case ( this will run power to the lock up solenoid ) . With is set up the torque converter will not lock up untill the unit is in overdrive (4th). You can also switch that key on hot so in town or towing you can leave the lockup off.

 

To run 700R4 without computer and to have converter lock in 4th gear I used a kit from:

Toy Shop Transmissions
1292 E 3rd St
Pomona, ca 91766-2209
Phone: (909) 620-5849


Very easy swap.
1. cut blck solenoid wire & ground to mounting bolt
2. swap 4th gear pressure switch
3. check continuity of 'A' terminal to solenoid ground

To adjust the cable, go to the library and find the Chilton's manual for '93-'94 TBI engine. Follow instructions.

That's it, 15 years and 80k miles since installed on junk yard transmission in the old Vicky.

 

I'm running the stock TBI with a painless harness, pretty simple setup, working better than the Qjets I had in the truck before. I'm sure I will have questions and I'll PM you.

Thanks guys for all the information.

 

Try Bowlertransmissions.com

 

Does the converter unlock at the same time as dropping out of fourth, then rpm mustclimb about a 1000rpm?

 

I believe the converter unlocks when the pressure drops, so depending on the speed the trans will still stay in 4th just not locked up, or if coming off the freeway the converter will unlock and the trans shift down as it normally would.

I know some locals that have had transmission shops work over their 700r4's during a rebuild, but the local shops don't want to "just" install the kit, they want to go thru the whole thing. I understand that they take on some liability for the trans by even opening it up and most shops here want to sell you one off the rack and take mine as a core. I just can't afford a new rebuilt one or a full rebuild right now on a trans that came from a running vehicle.

 

I used a Painless kit for a 200- 4R in my 51 convertible. It comes with a normally closed switch that needs to be set up with your brake pedal. When you brake it will disengage the 4th gear valve by loosing the 12 volts to it. To be honest I have only been in two gears so far. The car just made it to the street yesterday for some back and forth running. Then back to the garage. It is not registered so I was not going to far. I do have to say the 200-4R behind a 350 shifted almost seamlessly. I too have 373s in a 10 bolt rear. So, I do believe the brake switch in also an important part of this set up. It is in the Painless kit for a reason.
Dom
p.s. I see a lot of talk about the converter locking up. Does it not operate by rpms? It is the fourth gear valve that you need to power by the use of a vacuum switch. No?

 

Having the brake switch cut the power to make sure the converter is not locked up in first coming to a stop.

 

YOU DON'T NEED A "KIT"....line pressure has nothing to do with the TCC.... Look go by a kit if that makes you feel better. What the hell do I know..oh wait I do this for a living... I'll be happy to email you step by step how I do it everyday.

 

Could you send me one please
[email protected]
Thanks

 

go to bowtieoverdrives they have been helpful to me.

 

Depending on the year, you dont need ANY wiring to make lock up work. We do this everyday for our performance transmissions. It needs to be a 1982-91 trans tho. We do it all through the hydraulics & no need for any wiring at all. DAVE

 

Here is a write-up I did on how to wire up the lockup converter on a TH350C. It includes the Delco part numbers for all the necessary components. I have been told this will work on the 700R4 also.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=335802

 

damn there are a lot of ways to skin this cat

 

I'm looking to do the same, that is to put a 700r4 behind a carbed motor. I was told to get a vacuum switch off a mid 80s truck. but dont understand if i still need to install a pressure switch....I could use a step by step on what you suggest. [email protected] Thanks

 

please send me this too thanks in advance
[email protected]

 

If you have a TBI in the truck, surely you can add on to the existing harness to run the trans lockup, since most trucks with the TBI had a 700R4 behind them. Have you asked Painless about it?

And if it's not a mech speedo, don't forget to convert it.

 

Follow Onlychevrolets advise, easy to do. The link to "Here is some other info http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...o/700R4p2.html" is a good source of info as well wit info on carb linkage also.

Hooked mine up as per "Onlychevrolet" and "Purple sage" about 5 years ago. Used a "Brake/Cruise brake light switch" and a "GM vacuumn switch" (I think mine came off the firewall of a Astro Van) as well so it unlocks automatically when brakes are applied or when you want a downshift to accelerate.

Most expensive part was the pressure switch from GM.

Works great. Running it behind a 406 in a 64 Chevelle. The coupe is getting a SP400.

Good luck

Canuck

 

I didn't realize it was sooo complicated- bought a car with a 700 and the lockup wasn't hooked-ther were two wires on aplug on the trans so I grounded one and ran a wire to the other and fed it through the window and ran a hot from the panel, drove down the road and touched the wires together and the RPMs dropped so I drove back home and put a switch in, it seems to work fine , checked with a couple of trans people and they agreed that that was fine . When I'm on the road I use it and around town don't.
Afriend of mine tried the kits with vacume and all and got two defective ones from the company, so he went the same route and uses a dimmer switch on the floor to turn his on and off with his foot. D.

 

Olds34, I,ve been running mine for about 2 years like that, and all of a sudden
now it dont shift into OD. and I haven't figured out why.