Lets see if these photos work::::: New Design body, a real VIN tag, titled 1947 Chevrolet Thriftmaster. It was owned by an Arizona family since 1950. It spent a bit of time in Washington state, but the body was in very decent shape. Red arrow points to the original gas filler hole. This is a feature unique to the 47 and 48 model years. Lots of guys run false titles on later trucks to get them into the more exclusive pre-'48 events. My truck was hacked up to install a later model tank behind the seat. I am fixing that............. This is after demo in the back yard and on the day we moved it into the shop. Lots of filled holes in the firewall. I filled the top and both side cowls. Hot wrenching!!!
Check out the toes!!! What this photo is showing it that you must absolutely second guess every instruction that TCI Chassis sends with any part they sell. Note the front tire is far from center. Second guess their tech line too. They tell you to install stuff backwards and in the wrong place. The rear end was also off and the instructions tell you to install the front four link bracket backwards. Hell, even the magazine articles that were made show it installed backwards in some photos. This 9" Ford I picked up at the Big 3 in San Diego. It had a 2.89 and came with a second 3.50 gearset, which I later found was a Ford Traction lock--for a total of $450. I had a rear end shop jig it up and weld on the 4 link brackets that I had tacked into place. The photo also shows a anti-sway bar kit that CPP had in their catalog and sold me for this model year. After many calls to them and to TCI who made the kit, I find that they really don't make one for my truck. I pity the guys that buy parts and don't install them right away. My CPP rear brake kit was a piece of shit and had out of spec parts. It was downright unsafe. ECI was the manufacturer. It took three weeks to sort this out. I finally got the right caliper plates, but they owe me some bucks for my engineering time. I even told them that if they sent me some hats or t-shirts, it would smooth things over. I plan a very comprehensive post of why the kit was unsafe, since I had to do the photos, measurements, and engineering for them. Not to mention that I also had to convince them that there was a problem. This bad publicity could have been avoided with a hat or t-shirt, and $30 for correct length wheel lugs--or perhaps a gift card. The kit that Speedway Motors sells had the correct parts in it, and it is obvious from their website photos. That is the kit I should have ordered. This is a small bearing kit. This is the flip front hood kit from No Limit Engineering. It will open much further than this. It is a very nice kit. This is a 290hp 350CID Chevy crate motor. At $1899, it is one of the most popular motors in street rod building. I have built a few motors and it is hard to beat the price of this one. This is my light switch plate. I have been working on this project for right at two months. I work a day job and have missed several weekends of labor going to various shows and swap meets. Needless to say, I have been busting my butt.
I like what I see. It looks like you have everything right and boy howdy that is going to push me to do a better job on mine. Nice truck to start with and great looking work to this point.
Oh god another small block 350 let me guess its going to have a automatic to? This looks like its going to be more of show truck than a driver.
My daily drivers through the years consist of a 1948 Willys, a 1956 Ford truck, a 1963 Galaxie 500XL and then a Harley. So you may guess that your comment offends me.
At least he's planning to drive it, no matter what he's got in it. Also, that would be God with a capital G and too would be with 2 o's and be preceded by a comma. If you want to get picky. There is a guy over on the AD Truckers Social Group looking for a side cowl vent if you've still got it. I just scored a '47/48 cab this week. It is a completely different animal inside than the '49-53. I can't imagine how much hacking they had to do to put that tank in there.
I think I have the side cowl vent and levers. It was drilled for an antenna and it may be hacked up. Have the guy shoot me an emule at wildearp at hotmail dot com and I will send a photo if I find it. Here are the hacks:
From Danimal There is a guy over on the AD Truckers Social Group looking for a side cowl vent if you've still got it. I just scored a '47/48 cab this week. It is a completely different animal inside than the '49-53. I can't imagine how much hacking they had to do to put that tank in there. _________ Wilderp would have to show some photos of the inside back panel of to see if the cab was still the one that came on the truck or a later cab that got swapped on at some time. My bet is that the cab was replaced sometime years ago. The cab on my truck didn't survive an interaction with a station wagon that changed lanes on me years ago and I had to swap cabs. The inner panel/structure on the 47/48 cabs is there to strengthen the cab for the center mount cab support and isn't in the later cabs. I like my side cowl vent as it is about the only airflow my cab gets the way it is chopped. Thanks for the photo. Yep that is the real deal 47 Cab. And they did hack the inner brace to get the tank in.
Nice Project and Great Pictures. Brings back Memories. I had the same truck 1947 as my only Vehicle many years ago. Frame was rotted THRU ( I STILL DROVE IT) in between cab and box, where your metal gusset is now. Post more pictures later please. Thanks
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">Originally Posted by old1946truck Oh god another small block 350 let me guess its going to have a automatic to? This looks like its going to be more of show truck than a driver. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>My daily drivers through the years consist of a 1948 Willys, a 1956 Ford truck, a 1963 Galaxie 500XL and then a Harley. So you may guess that your comment offends me. very nice job on the truck. don't let the comments offend you, some people here have minds as narrow as their front tire tread width......
Wow. What a mess. I like how smooth mine is. I'm going to put the floor braces and shackles in since I've got a junk cab to raid. No sense using that center mount since I've never seen one in action! I'll figure out who had the vent wanted ad and get back to you!
Someone added some extra pads over the frame in the rear that are simple and work well. I will rebuild the center mount, buy fresh pads and just leave it. Well, I feel compelled to restore the inside metal werkz..........but I tend to be good at working the tin.
I also have a '47 and found a a tank from a my coworker who went a different route on his '48. They now reproduce them for the suburbans, not sure about the mounts though. And I have a simple 4" drop axle and same rear blocks and 2 leafs off each corner and that tank is close to the ground for the great OK streets! Have you looked at the '55 Chev car tanks that mount at the rear between the rails? Anyone else here?.......
Front centerline: I centered it. The front crossmember was only tacked at that point and I moved it back to center. The power rack in the kit has some 1/2" thick spacers that are not covered in the instructions. Tech support said to install them on top of the rack. They actually go under the rack for clearance purposes. If I had made the C-notch exactly where they said to put it for the rack, these spacers would have caused me great grief. Also, the rack is 1" too long to adjust toe. That is easily remedied, but so much for a completely engineered kit. The spring hat angles were cut wrong and the boxing plates were too big. I have an aluminum gas tank that mounts between the rear end and the rear cross member. Tanks Inc. also has some good choices for rear tanks.
The cab cowl says that's a real 47-1/2 or 48.I know a guy in you area that has a privite junkyard of AD parts.Maybe you allready know of him,but if not,give me a PM and I'll send his email.
I sent a PM. There are lots of little yards that folks rent in the industrial area. I have a connection with one of them and already picked up running boards. That guy has a bunch of parts and two trucks. These lots are so obscure and hard to find, and then you have no way of knowing who to contact. Any info is greatly appreciated.
.I know a guy in you area that has a privite junkyard of AD parts.Maybe you allready know of him,but if not,give me a PM and I'll send his email.[/QUOTE] Is his initals "M T' ?
i agree about tci front clip directions are off .Luckily my buddy who installed mine had just done one so he new that. so when we installed mine we did the z at the same time tacked everything in put sheet metal on to see if centerd .
Thanks again for the advice on the title service. They came out, looked at the Vin, and said I didn't even need a title, but it would help. It did not need to be notarized, even though it was. I guess MVD is a bit too strict. Needless to say, for a total of $43, I have a new title. The inspection took about 10 minutes including paperwork. The title was ready in about two hours. $43 included all fees. Heck, they will do my license plate for just a $10 upcharge. That beats the heck out of standing in line at MVD. I think I really like this board!!! edit: I don't fix welders. I have been a registered SASS life member wildearp for a very long time. Others have copied my name on boards, but I own it!
I reinstalled the motor for good, I hope: Here is a rear view of the progress: A closer shot of the recessed dash: I welded tabs to these cups and they mounted on the stock studs in the stock holes for the speedo and tach mount:
Funny that this month's Street Rodder had an infomercial on this Flowmaster universal pipe product: (A before and after) : By the way, that is PRIMER!!! PPG K-93
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