Having a problem. Not good enough to get good cover with one coat. Got it thinned 10 parts paint-2 parts mineral spirits, runs if I try to cover. Directions say not to recoat for 24 hrs. that true? What I'd like to do is 2-3 thin coats, any suggestions?
If your spraying the paint you can wait until its tack-free then shoot another coat. If your doing the roller/brush and wet sand trick you'll need to wait it out or bake it in a booth. -Bigchief.
I thin closer to 5-10%. Sprays on like cottage cheese but flows out decently. Have previously recoated at will, and ignored the 24 hour rule. However right now there is an air compressor tank in my back yard that was painted sunday, 2 heavy coats 3 hours apart because I didn't like the first color (silver). Still can't move the tank because the silver basecoat isn't dry yet and the top coat is. First time I've run into the drying problem to this extent. Weather's been cool and cloudy, but still, 3 days????
japan drier? i usually use acetone but have been using this product by "flood" i think they call it oil paint conditioner. ive been mixing it up to 50/50 seems to cover just fine, sets up really quick and leys down nice and even. never tried with mineral spirits.
I think that's the stuff; first coat on Pop's tractor slid like cow sneeze on a hot plate; the hardener let it flow yet not sag.
dunno i have never had any trouble with the stuff but i dont do the whole measuring thing when i mixing and thinning i just pour paint into gun and add a lil of wait did i say lil yeah lil, like i add a lil amount of thinner (very lil) cant stress it enough lil and i have had fantastic results, paint frame and floor boards in the a sedan, painted steelies on 4 different cars, painted lots of shop equipment, paint complete new engine in the 53 chevy, painted complete dune buggy dunno i guess my key to suscess is i use very lil thinner and i have used both mineral sprits and acetone both seem to give same results
Mineral spirits is REALLY slow drying/evaporating. I would suggest something faster like a fast grade of alkyd enamel reducer i.e. Dupont 3812S or similar. Acetone is pretty aggressive and will work but might bite you in the butt when using it to recoat, and lift or wrinkle the first layer. I have done it and even used lacquer thinner, which has acetone in it, or acrylic enamel reducer which has some pretty aggressive solvents in it's makeup also. Mineral spirits dry so slow that runs are real easy to achieve. overspray
If spraying with Rustoleum, XO Rust, Tremclad, you can use medium speed automotive enamel reducer, about 10 %, you can add Evercoat Hardner and Gloss agent. I use the medium reducer whenever spraying with Rustoleum, if rolling you go with mineral spirits, as you need the slower flash, that you get from mineral spirits.
Came out damn good for a $20.00 paint job. No runs but do have streaks, operator error I can remedy next time. Thanks for the tips.
I restored an antique bandsaw in my carport and I used Rustoleum straight out of the can without any thinning! I have a 50' line and I set the pressure at 50-60 lbs at the compressor to get about 40-45lbs at the gun. It flows a little thick but is great at smoothing its self out. You really have to wait 24 hours to recoat but it it turns out nice. Gene
Go to home depot and get your self a can of Penetrol (orange and white can). I use 20 to 30 percent penetrol and nothing else. It seems to dry and smooth it's self out much better. It also has alot of other uses like protecting bare metal and restoring fiberglass boats works as good as buffing with compound.
to thin. forget the % deal and like saoutlaws says just add a small amount of thinner just enough to get it through the gun. works for me. but maybe its the dry heat in az that helps.
I shot mine last week with satin black, I used a Husky HVLP gun from Home Depot at about 40psi. I think I thinned it too much, but I love the way it turned out. I thinned with acetone about 15 -20% it has a nice semi-flat look and a primer type of feel not smooth as glass but shit wipes right off. I had problems with lines on the first couple of coats so I played with the air pressure and shot a third and the problem was gone. The cowl for some reason came out fairly rough so last night I scuffed it and used the roller figuring it's the same paint left over from the gun's cup it should be good. I checked it this morning an the freakin' thing's shiney "WTF" oh well I'll shoot the cowl again this weekend.
heres some links to everything you could ever want to know about painting with rustoleum most are the roll on. like the Hot Rod $98 Paint Job http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=20&vc=1 http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx
The $98 Hot Rod Magazine article(July issue) used a roller to apply the RustOleum on an early 2dr Falcon.
Funny I just stumbled onto this post, I painted Poncho Bil's engine with rust-O (actually ace hardwares brand but the same stuff) today, reduced it with laqucer thinner loaded up they sray gun and shot 3 coats about 30 min's apart. I have done it before, It'll take a while to dry being oil base but its a thick $8.00 dollar paint job. LOL FRITZ
thats the stuff ive been using. i had no problem recoating once it tacked up, especially if you can stick it in the sun.
On the reverse side of turdytoo's post. I talked to a local guy that pokes a hole and empties a coupe spray bombs into his spray gun. He has been doin' it that way for years.
The Jalopy Journal
