Because I believe that electric fans belong on Japanese cars with fart can exhaust ... and they are NOT needed on a Hot Rod, I will not run a electric fan on my Hot Rods. I use the ZIP's water pump riser with a belt driven mechanical fan on the SBC engines on early Fords with the SBC. Here are the major parts. A ZIPS water pump riser, a standard 6 cylinder 230 -250 Chevrolet water pump, a GM brass purge vent part ... number #10070107 and a Flow Kooler plate ( I got mine from from Summit ) . The brass vent I use replaces the screw setup ( to purge captured air ) ... that ZIPS uses. Here is the Flow Kooler plate riveted to the rear of the 6 cylinder water pump. The Flow Cooler plate was for a V8 Chevrolet small block ... so I have to redrill the pattern to fit the 6 cylinder impeller. I also drill and tap the ZIP housing and install a throttle return spring bracket. I simply buy a Moroso Holley return spring bracket, cut the bracket end off and thread it so it can be screwed to the rear of the ZIP. Here is the ZIP mounted and ready to use. Standard V8 small block Chevrolet short water pump pulleys are used. Here it is installed with a shroud ... in the 32 . The fan is 16.5 inches in diameter and has seven blades. The ZIP raises the fan 5 and 1/2 inches so I can use a large fan. I have used a 18 inch fan on this car before but the shroud limits me to the 16 inch. I have used this setup for over 50,000 miles on my 32 Roadster. This conversion was done for my 32 3W ... hence the new photos and the older installation on the Roadster
Nice setup. How does that brass vent work? Do you just push on the pushbutton until liquid sprays out to know that all the air is out of the system?
the flow cooler is to prevent the pump from cavitating, I think... can that vent to purge the air be installed on a stock water pump?? Anyone have an idea as to which is the "best" stock GM fan to use??
the fan in the pics of the 32 is a good one, there are plenty of them to choose from, just about any GM (or Ford or Mopar) big car/pickup from the mid 60s to the 80s. Make sure the blades are correct, newer serpentine drives use reverse rotation fans.
You turn a screw in the top ... that opens the seat to allow air trapped in the system out. When you get a good stream of coolant ( with the car running ) ... just close the vent. The system is then purged. The brass vent came on some late model Camaros and Corvettes originally ... The Flow Kooler plate closes the end of the impeller up and does not allow coolant to escape around the ends. Flow Kooler claims a 30 per cent increase in flow. I do not know about the per centage but it really helps. I try to use a factory fan whenever possible. General Motors spends a LOT of time and money engineering a quiet yet highly efficient fan so I just rely on them and use the largest one I can fit to the car.
Rusty ... just make sure you purge ALL the air out of the system. I usually do that a few times ... just to make sure. 1) prior to first start up 2) after running for 3 or 4 minutes 3) before heading out on the highway. Make sure to follow the instructions ... I route the coolant from between #6 and #8 back to the water pump.
Did you get the riser from Summit, too...? What's the total cost involved with the water pump...? I've been thinking I want to do this, as the engine in my '32 is set so low to eliminate the floor hump... leaving room for only a 12" fan... It runs about 230 degrees... higher in traffic... so I need something. Thanks for posting... JOE
Most street rods shops have them. Parr Automotive, so does Southern Rods and Parts ( SHANE ) The ZIP riser costs around $225 ... everything ( pump, pulleys, Flow Kooler ) runs it up to about $300. But you get the alternator bracket cast in the housing so you do not have to buy one of those. With this set up you can use a 17 inch ( or larger ) fan. A 12 inch fan has the fan area of 113 inches ... A 17 inch fan has the fan area of 226 inches or double the area ...
The ZIP instructions say to do it. The original coolant return hole at the water pump mounting pad ( Just below the engine ID number/VIN code ) on a SBC is not used with the ZIP. The return helps keep all the coolant moving when the thermostat is closed.
When you buy the ZIP ... it comes with great instructions and a parts list complete with part numbers They suggest Everco # W 2493 Lower pulley # 3850838 Upper pulley # 3995642 and on 32 Fords ... a Gates lower hose # 20225 The alternator adjustment arm is # 715894 ( big GM truck ) This is a older photo ... because it shows the stock little screw that ZIPS uses ... to bleed the air out of the system. The one I use makes it a LOT easier
My friend Mark had a Snow-White riser on his beautiful '31 roadster. Used a Volvo pump, very 'sanitary'...The 'ZIP' looks to be more 'user friendly', with the alternator mount, etc.
I know this is a very old post, but to add some more info.......don't forget to drill a small hole (1/8") in the t-stat on the flat part inside of the gasket ring (where the hole is in water). This helps any trapped air behind the t-stat get past it.
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