Hi guys, I don't post a whole lot on here but read quite a bit. I did a search but honestly didn't find a whole lot. Here's what I've got. '52 Chevy 3100 p/u: -Pontiac Sprint 6 -T5 from an s10 -'66 Tempest 3.55 posi drum rear -stock front straight axle that was dropped 3" by Sid and I'm running 5x4.75" hubs/drums up front from a '49ish car. (I forget which year they are, dad put them on there in the late 70's) I'm wanting to changeover to disc brakes up front and I was possibly going to use the kit from Speedway. Are there any other options? Anything else I need to be aware of for the swap? Also, what options do I have for a master cylinder? I'm still running the stock single reservoir and I'd like to at least upgrade to a dual reservoir or maybe even power, but I think I'm pretty limited because I'm still using the stock clutch pedal and linkage. Thanks for any help!! -Jeremy
Every major supplier has kits for this truck, but speedway is probably the least expensive. Most of the kits for the power brake/master cyl say they will not work with a Standard shift trans, but there is at least one I have seen advertised on e-bay that says it will. You may also be able to mount one further back and use a longer rod to connect them.
Jet - thanks for the info. Surely a dual reservoir manual brake setup is a common swap while still keeping the stock clutch linkage. Anyone else?
Yes, the simple way is to build a bracket that bolts to the bracket the current master cylinder bolts on that mounts the dual cylinder. You also have to fab up a stout and adjustable pushrod to go between the pedal an the master cylinder. I've got my Photobucket all tied uploading photos from the car show I went to yesterday and can't dig out a photo or put up a drawing of the bracket but basically you cut a plate that you bolt to the bracket that is on the frame now and then make a plate for the new master cylinder to mount on that you weld to that plate and then it is wise to gusset it on the front side as you are putting a lot of pressure on that 90 degree weld joint. I think my bud and I made the one in my truck and had it in in under and hour but I had to redo the pushrod after I bent the first one. On the disks you might do a bit of hunting into something like Camaro/firebird/ early Cad Seville rear disk rotors that could be slipped over the 51 hubs. I've thought about it in the past but have never researched it. There may be a number of GM 5 on 4-3/5 11 inch front rotors of front wheel drive cars that might work if you either can make the center hole match the hub or have spacer rings made to center the rotor on the hub. Then you would need a caliper bracket that bolted to the spindle.
Thanks for the info. I've noticed a few "L" brackets online like you mentioned... curious if there's an off the shelf setup that would work. I can do metal fab myself as well, I guess it's time to just crawl under the truck and see what I'm working with and what the restrictions are with my clutch linkage. If I keep my single reservoir for now is their a residual valve or something I have to run inline when I put discs on the front? What about if I go to a dual reservoir? Is a proportioning valve the only way to do it right?
So I talked to both Classic Parts and Speedway yesterday. They both offer dual reservoir (non power boosted) master cylinders and the brackets to make them work on a '52... and they both stated they would work with the stock clutch linkage. QUESTION, can I just use the stock single reservoir master cylinder if I convert to discs up front? I know its probably less than ideal, but could I just run full pressure to the front discs from the stock MC and then regulate the pressure to the rear drums with a rotary adjustable proportioning valve? Would that work ok? I'm getting conflicting responses so far... but a good friend is doing it on his '56 Buick with good results.
No one will recommend it. But I've been running the stock 55 m/c on my 55 belair, with the RPV removed, for a couple years...and it has Willwood front disks, and stock rear drums. <<< picture of it on it's way up to 120 mph... If I were in your situation, I'd get the stock drums working well, and leave them. But you may not drive like I do.
Hey squirrel! Fellow drag weeker and bangshifter. Yeah, I'm torn as to what I want to do. My dad drove this thing in the late 70's/early 80's and then it sat for 25 years. He put all new brakes on it sometime in the mid 90's and then it sat some more until I finally got it on the road in 2007 and I've been cruising it ever since. It has '49ish car hubs (5x4.75") and drums on the front and they work ok for the most part, but sometimes it likes to dart left or right if you really get on them. I've always wanted to upgrade to discs so that's my current situation. Hmmmm... not sure what to do. So a few options: 1) Leave it the way it is... all drums with single reservoir. 2) all drums, but swap to a dual reservoir MC and A-PV. 3) disc/drums, with single reservoir MC and A-PV. 4) disc/drums, with dual reservoir MC and A-PV. I like to take it on more and more trips and would really like a safer brake system on it.
post a picture of the drums, and the brakes. Should have 51-54 drums, but you never know. The brakes changed from Huck to Bendix type in 1951 on cars and trucks. The drums look different, and they're slightly different size, but that won't stop someone from using the wrong parts also look at the steering and suspension, see if the spring bushings are all tight, the steering box is tight (no sideways movement of the pittman shaft), tie rod, drag link, king pins, etc. And the rear spring bushings and shackles.
Ok. I'll have to pull a wheel and take a pic to post. Pretty sure they're Bendix type. The front steering is tight and all new a few years ago from when I did the dropped axle. Front springs aren't the greatest and I'm doing new ones soon. Rears are stock and shackles aren't the greatest but the rear doesn't move around much if that's what you're referring to. Rear springs are on the to do list as well though.
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