Register now to get rid of these ads!

Inside a cast intake manifold

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by r8odecay, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. r8odecay
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 787

    r8odecay
    Member

    So I'm cleaning up a 61 caddy cast intake that has been sitting in a field for a while. A long while. I've gotten a good deal of sand and scale out of it, and soaking it overnight, and going to run the dremel brand roto rooter thru it in the morning. I am anticipating a pretty quick flash rust, and I want to seal it up clean as soon as I can. I'm thinking of dragging a super lubed up rag thru each runner to coat it up with grease. What other options do you have? Paint or glyptol or naval jelly or what to keep the runners clear and shit out of my motor...thanks!
     
  2. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Relax - I think you might be over-engineering it. Lots of engines built 70, 80 years or more ago are still running with no protection. Will the passages flash rust? - Yes they will, but the surface rust will actually impede (not stop) further immediate rust. By the time you get coolant with rust-retardent chemicals in there, you won't have any problems.

    I took a TON of sand, rust & wire out of my 1963 401 block and cleaned it all out before I rebuilt it. It was apart for at least a year with just a bit of surface rust that I could see. It's been purring away for the last 8 or 9 years with no problems.
     
  3. r8odecay
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 787

    r8odecay
    Member


    Thanks for the reply, but over engineering is what I do... and Caddy doesn't have any coolant in the intake manifold. I'm looking to protect my pistons/valves from crap dropping in on them after I assemble this spring, and not clean the parts over and over. What is that oily/waxy crap they use to pack new iron parts in?
     
  4. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    You're probably thinking of Cosmoline. You don't want any goo inside the manifold. Even paint will eventually loosen up and go into the engine. Get it clean and install it.
     

  5. Thin some 50 weight motor oil with a small amount of mineral spirits and apply with a rag. The mineral spirits will let the oil flow into the ports nicely and will evaporate in a few hours. When it is ready to run just wipe out the dust and install.
     
  6. David Chandler
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    David Chandler
    Member

    Just fog it with rattle can oil now and then, and try to keep it where there isn't a lot of change in tempreture or humidity. I've got an engine built up sitting on an engine stand, that been there for over 2 years. I spray it with WD40 in the intake, and into the exhauts ports, and use true "fogging oil", into the spark plug holes. As far as I can tell it hasn't rusted yet.
     
  7. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,141

    41woodie
    Member

    What about Gibbs? supposedly it doesn't trap and attract dust like wd-40
     
  8. 3Mike6
    Joined: Jan 2, 2007
    Posts: 704

    3Mike6
    Member

    Yeah, you're over thinking it, being too concerned about what "it might be". Just put it under your bed (assume you live indoors?) ;) and it'll be just fine in a few months when you need it.
     
  9. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,824

    4tford
    Member

    I had mine coated outside and inside at process coatings. It smooths the runners which helps fuel flow for what it is worth.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,056

    19Fordy
    Member

    David Chandler; Please tell me what is " true fogging oil" and where do you get it? Thanks, jim
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.