1950 ford flathead

Hello i have a question i have a 1950 ford 239 v8 engine, i removed the head's and found there were 3 crack's in 3 different exhaust seats. The exhaust seat's are part of the engine block, are they repairable, also one of the crack's is going to to the cylinder, it is about 1/2" long. Are these crack's repairable or do i have to get another engine. If they are repairable, doe's anybody know where i can get them repaired thank's

 

Supposedly, any crack that's easily accessible can be furnace welded. Expensive, though. I'd look for another block. Cracks are like rats, for every one you see, there's a whole bunch you don't!

 

does anyone have a 8ba, 239, v-8, rebuildabe engine for sale. or know where i can buy one thanks

 

Yes I haave a rolling chasis off a 46 Merc M100 & the 239 V8 is from a 49 to 51 Ford Truck

It will require to be rebuilded shipping could be issue

Since I'm in Alantic Canada I do have the cab for 47 Ford & 46 Merc, door & front clip & hood

 

water jacket/valve cracks are NOT hard to fix. even ones that go into the cylinders are doable with a sleeve. the only terminal crack in a flat block is a bottom web crack or one that runs into the cam bearing surfaces

 

I'm also looking at doing a flathead project.No experiance with them.How can i buy an engine from a distance with all the history with the cracked block problems?

 

I'm sure other people like Bruce will chime in here, but it depends on what you want the motor to do..............................if you are going to go racing or build a really stout motor then cracks can be a big issue (unless you are going to fill the block and use no water). Most cracks can be pinned and fixed realatively cheap with the exception of having to sleave a cylinder. The only cracks that are fatal are the web area and pan rail, other than that they can be fixed.
I have pulled apart 8 flathead motors, both 21 stud and 24 stud and have found three good ones for my use. The rest had serious to minor cracks. The cracks you don't need to worry about are the ones that go from the block surface to the water jacket. I had mine fixed only because I wanted "piece of mind" knowing that I will be using 6to9 lbs of boost. But these can be left alone on a normal motor or even one that is going to be hot rodded.
If I were looking for another motor I'd look for a block only that had been cleaned and mag'd and was crack free or had been repaired. The rest of the internal parts are easy to get and not too expensive, but the block is the key.
I have one block that is std bore, has been cleaned and mag'd and has a clean bill of health that I wouldn't sell...................If I did, I'd ask A LOT................only because they are getting few and fare between.

IMHO

 

Three cracks in bad places on a late block that has no hardened seats is going to get pricey fast...I would look for a decent block, preferably one with seats. Yours is probably a '52-3 with no seats at all. Blasted bean counters savagely attacked normal Ford standards after '48...I think the machine work on this will eat you alive.
I would store the bad block, however...it IS probably fixable, and the standards for saveable flathead blocks are getting looser and looser as more fans look into a declining number of available blocks!