Try taking the cap and rotor off before you take the engine hoist to it....if there's a wiper motor, or some other component in the way, I'd remove that too....
SBC only has a few things to leak back there, intake, valve covers and the off chance of a head gasket or a dist seal (the oil pressure unit would be more of a drivers side leak). Use a flashlight and a mirror.
On my 350 I had changed an oil pan gasket and everything worked fine for the first day or two and then I started seeing oil on the rear of the motor. I thought I had just missed a bolt so I tightened the bolts again and within a day or so more oil on the rear of the motor. This time I started looking much closer at just what was going on. The brand New gasket kit which was kind of costly and was one of those blue thick gasket came with New bolts because of being thicker. The brand new bolts were bottoming out in the holes!!! I trip to a local hardware store for shorter bolts solved the problem with the oil pan leaking. Jimbo
It might honestly be simpler to loosen the cab and core support bolts and raise the cab a bit to get the distributor out on that particular truck then try to slip the engine forward. If you read the manual for instructions for pulling the trans and transfer out of a S-10 4x step 1 is unbolt left side of cab and raise it 2 inches and put a block between the cab and the frame for clearance. But yes take the cap and rotor off as Abomb suggested. The valve covers will have to come off anyhow to get the intake off so check the gaskets close.
2 quarts in 50 miles? Did you check to see if the drain plug is installed in the bottom of the pan? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad